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1997 Engine Swap: 157k miles to 87k miles

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#1
HLF

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I am going to pul the old motor from my '97 this evening and I was wondering if it is easier to pull the engine and trans or to disconnect the trans and pull the engine a la carte?

 

If I leave the two attached, do I need to pull the radiator for clearance?

 

Also, do you guys pull the engine with the exhaust manifold attached or do you disconnect the manifold from the pipe?

 

TIA

 

-Kyle

 

 



#2
Tyler Dahl

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I usually pull the engine/trans together, pull the radiator (not worth the risk of damaging) and you can leave the exhaust manifold/down pipe on.

Tyler Dahl
 

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#3
Bench Racer

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Presume you have an engine leveler for your engine hoist. $25.00/$30.00 at Northern tool/Homedepot/???




 


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#4
HLF

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Yes I have an engine leveler. I realized I need to clean up what little room I have before I start.



#5
Glenn Davis

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Just did this.  If you're leaving the transmission on, I'm not sure you can get past the radiator.  Here is my step-by-step:

 

Engine Removal

 

  1. Disconnect negative battery terminal
  2. Drain water, oil and transmission fluid
  3. Disconnect windshield washer hose
  4. Remove 4 hood nuts, remove hood
  5. Remove hood prop
  6. Remove intake
  7. Remove upper radiator hose
  8. Remove radiator fan
  9. Remove radiator
  10. Remove upper O2 sensor
  11. Remove lower radiator hose
  12. Disconnect throttle cable and bracket
  13. Disconnect wiring harness, including alternator and starter cables
  14. Disconnect vacuum and fuel lines
  15. Disconnect clutch line
  16. Disconnect transmission from PPF
  17. Disconnect transmission sensors
  18. Disconnect harness bracket at passenger side rear block
  19. Remove Motor Mount lower nuts
  20. Disconnect engine ground
  21. Remove front bumper
  22. Pull engine and transmission as a unit
  23. Remove transmission
  24. Remove flywheel
  25. Remove dipstick shaft
  26. Remove starter
  27. Remove alternator

I did remove the manifold shield, but didn't need to.  I needed to remove the bumper due to the limited reach of my hoist.

 

IMG_1400_zps9bfff38f.jpg

 

IMG_1403_zps226a68d6.jpg


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#6
Johnny D

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Motor Mounts ?

J~


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#7
Glenn Davis

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Motor Mounts ?

J~

Nah, I just tore them out with the crane...

 

Actually got those when I was underneath getting at that driver side harness bracket.  Good catch.  I added it in.


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#8
Johnny D

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Good list you got going. :)

J~


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#9
trimless

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Front Bumper removed?  I have pulled engines/transmission in NA and NB and never removed the bumper. Just curious why it would need to be removed to pull the engine.


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#10
Chris Ashcraft

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"I needed to remove the bumper due to the limited reach of my hoist".

#11
Johnny D

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Ya the bumper optional depending on hoist.

 

Also be completely disconnected (double check) under, then put on floor. Watch the ceiling if your doing it inside. Block the wheels.

J~


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#12
HLF

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Well I cleaned up a bit but I will need to kick out my daily driver to get the swap done. Its a small garage.

 

Also, thought I would take a quick pic of the donor motor going in. Need to swap a lot of parts and I think a new clutch is in order. Also, a new harmonic balancer.

 

Fortunately spring break is a week away and that means a lot will get done then. 

 

 

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#13
HLF

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on the 1.8 NA motors, is there a way to mount an engine sideways? I would like to work on the front and rear of the motor while on the stand. 



#14
Bench Racer

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Yes, you can side mount to an engine stand. See Aberto's "my 1.6 engine rebuild thread" in the garge section, post #1 scroll thru the pictures.


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#15
HLF

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got to work some last night. 

 

I should pull that motor tonight or tomorrow night. 

 

I was reading the rules. "E. The factory air conditioning systems may be removed. Items that serve a dual purpose, such as the alternator/air conditioning compressor bracket, may not be removed."

 

Does this mean I can remove the P/S and A/C compressor brackets from the block since they do NOT have a dual purpose?

 

I took the flywheel off the donor motor to replace the rear main seal. The seal looks like its in great condition. I replaced it anyway, but it made me happy i spent the extra money money on a motor with a reputable history. 

 

-Kyle

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#16
Alberto

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I was reading the rules. "E. The factory air conditioning systems may be removed. Items that serve a dual purpose, such as the alternator/air conditioning compressor bracket, may not be removed."

 

Does this mean I can remove the P/S and A/C compressor brackets from the block since they do NOT have a dual purpose?

 

 

yep


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#17
Mark McCallister

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Does this mean I can remove the P/S and A/C compressor brackets from the block since they do NOT have a dual purpose?

 

I can't say for sure on the 1.8, but at least on the 1.6, one of the bolts through the big bracket actually goes into the oil pump/etc., and if not replaced with an appropriate bolt creates a path for oil to escape.  I had a thread about that with pictures years ago on the old site.  Just fyi.


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#18
HLF

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Mark, I saw that in a past thread as well. I checked and I could see the end of the threads on all the holes.



#19
HLF

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Late night last night. Took me 4 hours by myself but I got the motor and tranny out. 

 

I printed out the check list and taped it to the windshield. That was really helpful.

 

I'm going to take today off but I will work on it more tomorrow. 



#20
Bench Racer

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Hopefully tonight is date night.  :wub: &  :peace1:  


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