8 replies to this topic

[HLF]

I am trying to get my new motor ready for installation. 

 

I do not think the cam shafts or the crank are in the right position. Below are pictures of the cams and the crank. The pictures were taken at the same time. 

 

http://s116.photobuc...7d5dbb.jpg.html

http://s116.photobuc...5b283a.jpg.html

 

Can someone tell me how to set my timing from scratch so that the motor will at least run once I get it installed. 

 

TIA,

 

Kyle

[FTodaro]

Ok I am going to take a stab at it. there should be some threads that go into the detail you need if you search.

 

also you should have a shop manual which  will give you pictures and instructions..

 

1. you have to take off the plastic covers at the bottom of the motor and maybe the crank pully so you can see the timing mark on the crank.

2. put on the cam wheels and take note of the timing marks E (exhaust) and I (intake) on each. set the both the E and I at 12 clock position on the cams and keep the crank at TDC by the little mark etched into the block.

then slide the timing belt on the wheels.

3 note and additional set of timing marks on the back plate to the cam wheels that you also must align. the are at the 8: clock position exhaust an 4 clock position on the intake.

4. you want to adjust the timing belt tensioner, and then rotate the belt back and fourth to make sure the marks  line up.

 

when i take the belt off, i always mark it then i do not have to think just line up the marks and put it on.

 

there are a number of dimples between the cams that you can count to make sure that it is not one tooth off. someone else can fill that in.

[LarryKing]

Frank has it. A little more detail: there is a downward pointing triangle cast into the oil pump directly above the cogged crank pulley. On that pulley is a dimple, or cut-out. The triangle and the dimple must line-up and the no. 1 cylinder will be at TDC. If you know what your looking for you can see the marks by shining a light down into the plastic covers. Forget about the timing marks on the accessory pulley and plastic cover at this point.  (second photo).

 

Then the 'E' cast on the intake cam pulley must line-up with the "finger" just below the 'E' that are both stamped on the metal plate in your first photo. Same goes for the exhaust cam pulley only the 'I's are lined-up.

 

It's real easy to get the belt one tooth off.

 

A factory shop manual or enthusiast manual are invaluable.

[trimless]

Best money I ever spent was on a factory shop manual.  Takes the guess work our of working on the car.

[Bench Racer]

Very well done video for a 1997. Timing belt starts at the 8 minute mark.

[HLF]

I have an FSM but I cannot figure out which slot (on the sprocket) the pin on the end of the camshaft goes.

[LarryKing]

The pins are at 12 o'clock aren't they? Use the slot that allows the marks to line-up.

[FTodaro]

I have an FSM but I cannot figure out which slot (on the sprocket) the pin on the end of the camshaft goes.

the pin in the intake came goes in the slot labeled (in) intake and the pin on the exhaust cam goes in the hole marked EX those wheels are interchangeable and you have to make sure that on the intake side you aline the pin with the intake hole and the ex with the ex hole if that makes any sense.

[HLF]

Frank, thanks!