hesitating 1990 Miata fuel leak in rear
#1
Posted 04-02-2014 07:36 AM
#2
Posted 04-02-2014 07:50 AM
Chase the leak to it's origin. The fuel tank has a hex shaped plug with a sealing washer for draining the fuel tank. If the leak is at the plug don't go nuts tightening the plug. It would be wiser to gently loosen the plug. Drain pan required. The fuel filter is inside the right rear tire ahead of the axle behind a plastic cover.
- jswitzer360 likes this
#3
Posted 04-02-2014 08:58 AM
What Bench said. FYI...If its an original 90 motor...it is a short nose crank. Long nose started coming out mid 91 I believe.
Ron
RAmotorsports
#4
Posted 04-02-2014 09:05 AM
This is in my book, but...
Short nose cranks have 4 slots in the crank pulley, long nosers have 8 slots.
Dave
Dave Wheeler
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#5
Posted 04-02-2014 01:28 PM
yes im aware of how to identify a short nose crank and I do have the short nose all I was saying is that there is no wobble on the crank pulley so I figured the keyway is still good? or should I pull it off and really look? and the leak is coming from the rear drivers side ill have to lift her up in the air to get a really good look.. as far as the fuel filter I was already planning on changing it and giving everything a good tune up... and I was planning on swapping the motor out with a long nose with less miles.. anyone know of any good places to pick up a strong motor that's not exactly a race motor but still strong?
- Ron Alan likes this
#6
Posted 04-02-2014 03:32 PM
yes im aware of how to identify a short nose crank and I do have the short nose all I was saying is that there is no wobble on the crank pulley so I figured the keyway is still good? or should I pull it off and really look? and the leak is coming from the rear drivers side ill have to lift her up in the air to get a really good look.. as far as the fuel filter I was already planning on changing it and giving everything a good tune up... and I was planning on swapping the motor out with a long nose with less miles.. anyone know of any good places to pick up a strong motor that's not exactly a race motor but still strong?
Can't hurt to have a look. Gives you the opportunity to inventory how the crank looks, ensure the belts are good, replace any leaking oil seals and make sure everything is tight and correct.
Through pure dumb luck, I decided to switch out the 180k SNC motor and tired transmission from my 90 with a low mileage, big nose motor and transmission from a 91. I basically did it b/c the price on the newer motor was great and I knew the guy selling it. The dumb luck parts comes 3 years later when I go to dis-assemble the SNC motor and realize that the pulley bolt was hand tight and the keyway was starting to show wear b/c the bolt had loosened up. If I had left the original SNC motor in the car w/o checking the pulley and keyway, that pulley would have started wobbling and hurt the motor during a race and I would have been out and entry fee.
Regarding the fuel leak, take a look at the fuel filter, hoses and clamps and replace as needed. I believe you can test the fuel system for leaks by pressurizing it. Run a wire between Ground and Ten (iirc)? at the diagnostic box to activate the fuel pump and then looking for a leak.
#7
Posted 04-02-2014 08:55 PM
Can't hurt to have a look. Gives you the opportunity to inventory how the crank looks, ensure the belts are good, replace any leaking oil seals and make sure everything is tight and correct.
Through pure dumb luck, I decided to switch out the 180k SNC motor and tired transmission from my 90 with a low mileage, big nose motor and transmission from a 91. I basically did it b/c the price on the newer motor was great and I knew the guy selling it. The dumb luck parts comes 3 years later when I go to dis-assemble the SNC motor and realize that the pulley bolt was hand tight and the keyway was starting to show wear b/c the bolt had loosened up. If I had left the original SNC motor in the car w/o checking the pulley and keyway, that pulley would have started wobbling and hurt the motor during a race and I would have been out and entry fee.
Regarding the fuel leak, take a look at the fuel filter, hoses and clamps and replace as needed. I believe you can test the fuel system for leaks by pressurizing it. Run a wire between Ground and Ten (iirc)? at the diagnostic box to activate the fuel pump and then looking for a leak.
Will do tomorrow I figured I should look just to be sure anyways I've heard all the bad stories bout them... Thnx guys
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