5 replies to this topic

[sicaracing77]

Hi, new to the forum. I did a little search and I know that there is already some threads on this but I am going to start a new one. 

I followed the Dave W method of wiring a kill switch. I now have a draw on the battery when the switch is in the off position. Here are the instructions i followed: "I've let you guys talk about cutting wires, electrical problems and no starts for a while. Here's how I do it and why.

Anytime you break into the factory wiring harness you are looking for problems. Also, in a racecar you never want ANY chance of loose connections or power lose in the fuel or ignition systems. So, why does everybody insist on doing it this way?

I mount my switch on the rollcage about where the passengers right shoulder would be. I use a single pole switch with just 2 connecters.

Start by removing the positive battery cable from the car all the way to the starter. Remove all the tape and clips so it is a free standing cable. Route the cable back through the evaporator hole into the interior. Secure the cable to the trans tunnel with adel clamps. Cut the cable to length and with the proper sized lug attach to the switch. The left over cable is not long enough to reach back to the battery so you will need to purchase a battery cable to go from the battery to the switch.

To get the car to "kill" required some thought and a lot of looking at the wiring diagrams. But it is actually easy.

Remove the battery lead(white larger wire) from the alternator output lug. Cut the connector off and install a larger eyelet. Remove the nut from the starter cable and install the white wire directly to the starter.

Using 10 guage wire about 13 feet long connect the alternator post to BATTERY side of the kill switch. YOU'RE DONE

When you turn the switch off the battery is disconnected AND since the alternator output is hooked to the battery only the car will die. No cutting of wiring harnesses, no blown ECU, no worries mate!!!!"

 

 

 

 

 

Ok, so I tested for the draw by using a test light between the negative post and the negative cable while the cable was removed. 1.With the key in the off pos. and the kill switch also in the off position I got a very faint light.

2.If I turn the key to the accessories pos and the kill switch off I get a brighter light.

3.With the key off and the switch on I get no light. With the switch off and the key off, if I pull the Alt. fuse I do not get a light.

Any idea what I could have done wrong or how to fix it? 

 

 

I am fine with just leaving the switch in the on position for now but I would eventually like to figure this out. Thanks for your input.

 

Joe 

[sicaracing77]

Sorry, this is a for a 91

[davew]

Very simple fix. leave the master switch on all the time. That is how we do it. Use the master switch for an emergency only

 

Dave

[sicaracing77]

Thanks Dave. So if there is no harm in leaving it this way I will. Just thought i made a mistake somewhere. Thanks again.

[LarryKing]

Thanks for the question sica77. I've had the same issue for years and also just leave the switch on. Glad to know I'm not alone.

[Bench Racer]

I used the AdvancedAutoSports parts/system and wore out three muti-meters untill I had a session with Dr. Wheeler.