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lower shock mount captive nut spinning free in the control arm

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#1
95mx5okc

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I was using a 17mm socket to remove the lower shock mount bolt on my '95 Miata and noticed the bolt kept spinning and did not seem to move. Finally I peaked underneath and noticed through the hole in the bottom of the lower control arm that captive nut is spinning free.

 

Any advice on how to fix?



#2
Ron Alan

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Used lower control arms are cheap! Or order a new one from Mazda!

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#3
Bench Racer

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From a slightly twisted memory, seems as tho I had this issue on a Mazda of some sort and I was able to use a PB blaster type stuff and then forced a large screw driver up the visability hole to stop the nut from turning and the bolt turned out. Use a hand wrench rather than a impact tool. Later I'll look at my SM and see if it was the car.


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#4
davew

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If the captured nut is spining, you are pretty stuck with buying a new/used control arm. No amount of PB will get the nut loose enough to come loose when it has broken away from the retainer. I have cut slots and stuck a thin wrench into the hole and saved the arm, but now you need someone to weld the nut in place so you can reassemble.

 

Also note that Mazda uses 3 bolts that are very similar in diameter and length, Front lower ball joint, front bottom of shock, and rear bottom of shock. One of them has a different thread pitch. DO NOT force the wrong bolt into your new control arm.

 

Dave


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Dave Wheeler
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#5
95mx5okc

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Any chance I can cut away at the hole to make it bigger to get a decent wrench up there? I understand for SM that may not be possible because that would be "modified". I don't run SM so this may be an option for me. And PB etc to help it break loose? For reassemble, reattach the captive nut by hand and tighten with wrench? Or I can purchase a new lower control arm since they are pretty cheap.

 

Thanks for the tips guys!



#6
davew

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If this is an emergency situation and you have no other options, get it apart and do what you must. If this is not an emergency, do it right the first time. You will be glad you did.

 

Dave


Dave Wheeler
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#7
HoneyBadger - BrianW

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I'm not the most patient person, so I would probably opt for a sawzall removal method and a new or used arm.


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#8
Bench Racer

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95mx5okc, shall we continue???  As my signature says, Different Strokes for Different Folks:bigsquaregrin:


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#9
Sphinx

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Poop.  Just got struck with this last night as I was nut/bolting my suspension.  Except it seems that either the bolt or the nut are stripped but that the captive nut is still in place - I can see it from underneath and it doesn't look like it is turning.  Try as i might, no luck trying to get the bolt out.  Tried to grab the bolt with some vice grips, jacking up the suspension a little, etc. nothing worked.  Anyone have a suggestion?



#10
Alberto

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angle grinder

sawzall

beer

 

(what could possibly go wrong with the combination of those 3 things! ;)

 

maybe a hammer and intimidating words too


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#11
Sphinx

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angle grinder

sawzall

beer

 

(what could possibly go wrong with the combination of those 3 things! ;)

 

maybe a hammer and intimidating words too

I was afraid of that. :(  Nothing better than last minute stuff when you're planning for an event.  I'm going to take it to a local prep shop so that I don't lose my mind in the process of removal.



#12
Bench Racer

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Choice A.

 

I had this once on someone's car and I managed to hold the nut with a large screwdriver from the hole in the nut side of the control arm after WD40 or something all over the nut and waited a day or so and it came apart.

 

Choice B.

 

Cut opening in control arm, bend/remove nut keeper wings and get a wrench on nut. See picture in attached link.

 

https://www.google.c...=RCU3fA6g8xaP7M

 

Choice C.

 

Remove control arm and butcher to suite or replace control arm with well captured nut.


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