7 replies to this topic

[ChrisA]

I'm installing a few gauges in the car and anticipating a few more additions down the road, like data acquisition and perhaps a race radio; probably 5-6 additional items when done. So I figure adding an auxiliary fuse panel would be smartest route. To bring 12v switched power to the panel, what is the best way to go about this? Just use the Cigarette line; combine a few free power lines such as: cigarette, radio, power windows (not sure this can be done); or run a fresh line from the engine bay panel? A ground strip might be a good idea too. Anybody, done this and have some suggestions/tips?

[Jeff Wasilko]

It's probably overkill, but I did 3 busbars in the area where the airbag used to be. 12V, ground and shared dimming circuit for the autometer gauges. I built it with enough slack that it could be worked on out of the airbag mount, and them pushed back in. With the airbag cover in aplce, none of it is visible:

 

 

 

 

[Jeff Wasilko]

FYI, the busbars are from Blue Sea Systems, intended for marine applications.

[ChrisA]

Dang Jeff, that's a cleaner job than even I would do and I'm very much a "do it right" kind-of guy. I do like the idea of using the plate in the airbag space, I may consider doing mine that way. What did you use to pull 12v to the busbar?

[Adax]

I used the power window circuit. Seems like it is 20 A or something, far more than needed.

 

In my blog somewhere.

 

AC

[Jeff Wasilko]

Dang Jeff, that's a cleaner job than even I would do and I'm very much a "do it right" kind-of guy. I do like the idea of using the plate in the airbag space, I may consider doing mine that way. What did you use to pull 12v to the busbar?

I ran off a separate circuit fed from a http://www.rowe-elec...ics.com/modules
Right now that's providing protected circuits for my cool suit cooler and all of the aux equipment in the car.

[Brandon]

I happened to be getting a stereo installed in the tow vehicle when I was redoing the wiring in my car and the installer suggested using a 200A breaker mounted close to the battery.

From there it gets fed to a switch & relay to power a fuse-box which I then wire-in my accessories.

The installer noted that even with a fuse at the box there still exists a situation where you could overrun the box entirely and running the breaker prevents problems from flowing "back" into the car.

 

One item of note: I'm able to run mine like this safely because my power-cutoff severs the ground (as best as I can tell) instead of main+alternator positive voltage.

 

I can't claim it's as neat or clean as Jeff's but both of our installations will never cause us to miss a grid due to an electrical gremlin!

 

And Jeff - thanks for that link.  I think I'll be considering something similar for a future rewire and to move the connectors out from behind the radio panel.

[Glenn Davis]

I don't have my wiring diagrams with me at the moment, but there are several switched circuits with fairly high fuse values available behind the dash.  As far as the gauges go, the reco was to have them individually fused, so I picked up a Marine ATC fuse block.from Blue Sea.

 

http://www.bluesea.c...Blocks/ST_Blade

 

I got the one with the negative bus, and I will be using fuses from 1A to 15A depending on the need.