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Camber Caster gauge
#1
Posted 02-27-2011 09:57 AM
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Digital or not? Off the wheel or off the hub?
1. http://www.advancedr...cs/smartbig.jpg
digital of the wheel
2. http://www.motorspor...es/lon78270.jpg
analog of the hub
3. http://www.fast-auto...90411683495.jpg
digital off the wheel
4. http://ecx.images-am...L500_AA300_.jpg
digitl off the hub
5. http://ecx.images-am...L500_AA300_.jpg
analog of the wheel
anyone use these?
http://www.bbxracing...1cmprs.JPGhese?
#2
Posted 02-28-2011 10:29 AM
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Dave
Dave Wheeler
Advanced Autosports, the nations most complete Spec Miata shop
Author, Spec Miata Constructors Guide, version 1 and 2.0
Building Championship winning cars since 1995
4 time Central Division Spec Miata Champion car builder 2012-2013-2014-2017
Back to Back June Sprints Spec Miata 1-2 finishes 2016 and 2017
5 time June Sprints winner in Mazda's
6 Time Northern Conference Champion Car Builder
2014 SCCA Majors National point Champion car builder
2014 SCCA Runoffs winner, T4 (Bender)
2014 Central Division Champion, ITS (Wheeler)
2013 Thunderhill 25 hour winning crew chief
2007 June Sprints winner, (GT1, Mohrhauser)
Over 200 race wins and counting.
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dave@advanced-autosports.com
608-313-1230
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#3
Posted 02-28-2011 01:23 PM
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it works well and is simple to use. make sure you get the lower part, its called the hands free attachment.
it makes working with the gauge much easier.
1999 SM #92 SoPac division
#4
Posted 02-28-2011 02:37 PM
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#5
Posted 02-28-2011 05:17 PM
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#6
Posted 02-28-2011 05:56 PM
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I own, 1, 2 and 5. I use #1.
Mike,
How do you keep it (#1) stable on wheels such as Team Dynamics which don't have a machined lip?
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#7
Posted 02-28-2011 06:04 PM
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Jeff Gruter
Excell Motorsports
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#8
Posted 03-01-2011 09:16 AM
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I own 3 of the 5 listed
I have used 4 of the 5
I have used several other digital versions.
I use none of them.
I have not found a digital gauge that is repeatable enough for me. I have checked the camber on the "I" beam that holds up my shop roof. And can not get 2 digital gauges to read the same. I can not get the same gauge to read the same (or oposite) when measuring the left side of the beam compared to the right side of the beam.
I went so far as to get a piece of steel machined at a 3* angle so I would have an accurate standard to measure against. No 2 digital guages read the same.
I use an old school bubble guage. Never goes out of calibration, batteries never go dead. If I drop it, there is no repair bill. I keep one in my tool box, one at the allignment rack and one in the trailer. And they all read the same!!!!
Dave
Dave Wheeler
Advanced Autosports, the nations most complete Spec Miata shop
Author, Spec Miata Constructors Guide, version 1 and 2.0
Building Championship winning cars since 1995
4 time Central Division Spec Miata Champion car builder 2012-2013-2014-2017
Back to Back June Sprints Spec Miata 1-2 finishes 2016 and 2017
5 time June Sprints winner in Mazda's
6 Time Northern Conference Champion Car Builder
2014 SCCA Majors National point Champion car builder
2014 SCCA Runoffs winner, T4 (Bender)
2014 Central Division Champion, ITS (Wheeler)
2013 Thunderhill 25 hour winning crew chief
2007 June Sprints winner, (GT1, Mohrhauser)
Over 200 race wins and counting.
www.advanced-autosports.com
dave@advanced-autosports.com
608-313-1230
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#9
Posted 03-01-2011 10:06 AM
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#10
Posted 03-02-2011 01:35 PM
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Frank
TnT Racing
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#11
Posted 03-02-2011 02:32 PM
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Personal opinion here:
I own 3 of the 5 listed
I have used 4 of the 5
I have used several other digital versions.
I use none of them.
I have not found a digital gauge that is repeatable enough for me. I have checked the camber on the "I" beam that holds up my shop roof. And can not get 2 digital gauges to read the same. I can not get the same gauge to read the same (or oposite) when measuring the left side of the beam compared to the right side of the beam.
I went so far as to get a piece of steel machined at a 3* angle so I would have an accurate standard to measure against. No 2 digital guages read the same.
I use an old school bubble guage. Never goes out of calibration, batteries never go dead. If I drop it, there is no repair bill. I keep one in my tool box, one at the allignment rack and one in the trailer. And they all read the same!!!!
Dave
Glenn Murphey, Crew Chief
Owner Crew Chief Services The Pinnacle of Excellence, Contract Crew Services for the racing community.
Soon to be back in the club racing scene for good
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#12
Posted 03-02-2011 05:25 PM
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http://cgi.ebay.com/...2#ht_2619wt_762
I like the fact that a screw & bubble system is simple and repeatable and it doesn't require power.
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#13
Posted 08-14-2011 06:00 PM
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Jeff
Jeff Gruter
Excell Motorsports
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#14
Posted 08-14-2011 08:36 PM
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#15
Posted 08-15-2011 06:18 PM
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Jeff Gruter
Excell Motorsports
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Hatzel & Buehler Electrical Construction - IBEW
#16
Posted 08-15-2011 07:35 PM
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I wouldn't bolt the gauge directly to something resembling a wheel spacer. When you roll the car back and forth you want to end up with the level...level, which you'd have to do by twisting the gauge or carefully moving the car. I bolt the spacer to the studs like you mention to provide a flat surface. If the spacer was steel the magnetic adapter I have now would just stick it to the spacer. Instead I just hold it against the flat surface. More of a pain measuring caster than anything else. It works though if you don't have a proper adapter handy.
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#17
Posted 08-15-2011 08:31 PM
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There has to be a device or a adapter that someone out there has used that makes it easy to use the magnet. How about the plate you suggest bolted directly to the CC gauge. Put it over the long studs with 2 nuts ??
What's to guarantee that the plate is square with the hub...??? That is my worry.
45 SM
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#18
Posted 08-15-2011 08:44 PM
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What's to guarantee that the plate is square with the hub...??? That is my worry.
Unless the wheel casting is way off or the lug nuts are different lengths, with all 4 lug nuts torqued down the flat end of the lug nuts should be square with the hub. If I was super precise, it might not be acceptable. If I'm off by a 1/10, that's about as close as I can get with a bubble level. To find out if it's square though, roll the car fwd and backwards a bit and remeasure at different points. If it's not square, the measurement will change.
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