11 replies to this topic

[ChrisA]

Finally, got the car, in SM trim, back out on track after 2-yrs. Pulled the power steering to salvage the power loss, but man the steering is heavy. Corners at VIR like Oak Tree, T5-6 & T17 are just about like parking speed heavy. This doesn't sound typical, what should I look into to remedy this? Caster is set at 5-5.5*. It was heavy enough to re-aggravate some tendoniteous in my elbow, so I gotta do something about it.

[davew]

Sounds like yo may still have too much fluid in the rack causing a hydralic bind. Assuming you have my plugs, remove the plugs, with the front tires off the ground, turn the s/w quickly lock to lock several times. This will remove the excess fluid. Then reinstall the plugs.

 

Dave

[Mark]

What Dave said first as that is the most likely issue. 

 

If that doesn't work check the preload on the steering rack. On the steering rack somewhere around the steering shaft there is a big hex plug. Under that plug there is a set screw. Adjust the set screw per the shop manual. The preload setting is a very small value. I've had steering racks that were just a few in-lbs over that made it almost impossible to turn the wheels at parking lot speeds. This is easily detectable with the car up on jack stands. If you put the car in the air and turn the wheels from side (taking caster out of the equation) you should be able to tell whether caster or the rack itself is the issue.

 

Mark

[ChrisA]

Thanks Dave. I'll see if I can push more of the fluid out of the system. I tried to get it low, but still have some in it for lubrication. Just didn't "seem" right to be expelling all that lubricant from the rack.

 

Mark, I'll look into the pre-load setting if Dave's trick doesn't net much relief.

 

Thanks Guys

[Bench Racer]

When folks do a complete take apart generally most all the oil is removed and the rack/pinion are wheel bearing greased and it's good to go.

[Jim Drago]

probably what Dave said..

If not.. I have seen the main shaft bent in the rack as well and it causes binding and hard steering. 

[davew]

All it takes is a thimble of fluid to lubricate the rack. remember there is no heat. 

 

I have seen racks bend also, but it takes a pretty good wack to do it. And usually the bend is close to full lock.

 

Unless you took the entire rack apart, I highly doubt you have a preload issue

 

Dave

[ChrisA]

Dave/Jim, before I start messing with stuff, could the hydraulic bind present itself only (or more dramatically) when under load cornering? The effort did seem pretty consistent lock-to-lock when I did the job up on stands.

[DamonB06]

I have had a similar issue to what you are describing. The steering would get stiff and sometimes felt sticky in a corner. It felt as though I had to apply more effort to straighten the wheel on corner exit. The problem was non existent once the car was up on jack stands. Later that weekend, my lower balljoint popped out. I would give a good hard look at these because missing it cost me a wheel, a tire, a tierod and some fender damage.

 

Here is the failed balljoint on the car.

 

 

Once removed

 

 

and the damage to the wheel from the lower control arm grinding it after the balljoint let go

 

[ChrisA]

^^  Don't think that is my issue, but thanks. That could have been a very bad situation, glad you faired reasonably well. I checked all the ball-joints before I installed this set of control arms. All seemed to have the similar & appropriate amount of resistance to movement, i.e. none felt loose. The steering self-straighens when leaving corners, it's just really heavy on tighter, slow and/or heavily loaded corners. VIR's South Course was particularly difficult, I had to cut sessions to preserve my rickety elbow for the Full Course sessions.

[SaulSpeedwell]

I have had a similar issue to what you are describing. The steering would get stiff and sometimes felt sticky in a corner. It felt as though I had to apply more effort to straighten the wheel on corner exit. The problem was non existent once the car was up on jack stands. Later that weekend, my lower balljoint popped out. I would give a good hard look at these because missing it cost me a wheel, a tire, a tierod and some fender damage.

 

Here is the failed balljoint on the car.

 

 

 

Once removed

 

 

 

and the damage to the wheel from the lower control arm grinding it after the balljoint let go

 

 

 

Any idea if that lower BJ was Mazda OEM or Ebay special or, or, or .... ?

[DamonB06]

They were cheap parts store balljoints, Duralast I believe. My lesson was learned, only OEM parts from then on out.