25 replies to this topic

[Ranchracer]

Thinking about a move from open wheel (Formula Continental) to something that gives me more choices in terms of racing organizations, enduro options, etc. and B-spec looks very interesting.

What does a set of the Continentals run, and what kind of life can you realistically get out of them? How about motor life?

Any info on running costs that anyone would be kind enough to share would be much appreciated?

Thanks,
Eric

[Ron Alan]

Pretty sure rear tires last a couple years 

[Ranchracer]

Pretty sure rear tires last a couple years 

LOL! Yeah FWD, guess the rears would last awhile. I'm used to a new set of $1,300 Hoosiers every race.

[Derrick Ambrose]

I use 2-3 sets of tires a season depending on how often I run.  Swapping the fronts to the rears and running new fronts works well.  I ran 3 season on the original motor in the 2 until I changed it out for a fresh one.  Looking at the original motor it was in great shape and would last another few seasons.

 

 

Fuel costs towing is the biggest thing I have run into hitting all of the majors events this last season unless you drive the car to the event (which works too as the car will fit a few sets of tires and everything for a race weekend in the back).

 

Derrick

[Kyle Keenan]

I ran all majors long (3 weekends, 6 races total, plus practice and qualifying) on one set of Hoosier tires. Our car gets about 12 miles to the gallon and runs best on 92/91 depending where you're located. Uses about 10-15 gallons total a weekend (unless you're trying to pass runoffs tech, then figure 25 or so). 

 

Brakes (at least on the Kia) last all season, we just pull out each pad and inspect it after every race weekend. 

I raced SM for 5 years then stepped into a B-Spec car. It's honestly a ton of fun and really has taught me a lot about driving a "pushy" car. 

[Ranchracer]

I ran all majors long (3 weekends, 6 races total, plus practice and qualifying) on one set of Hoosier tires. Our car gets about 12 miles to the gallon and runs best on 92/91 depending where you're located. Uses about 10-15 gallons total a weekend (unless you're trying to pass runoffs tech, then figure 25 or so). 
 
Brakes (at least on the Kia) last all season, we just pull out each pad and inspect it after every race weekend. 

I raced SM for 5 years then stepped into a B-Spec car. It's honestly a ton of fun and really has taught me a lot about driving a "pushy" car.

Wow, that's pretty amazing. Which Hoosier? The R6 or R7?

[Kyle Keenan]

SM7 is what I ran (Spec miata tire)

[Ranchracer]

SM7 is what I ran (Spec miata tire)

 

Cool. SM7 and R7 are identical other than part number aren't they?

[Kyle Keenan]

From what I understand, yes. I do believe the tread pattern is different, but obviously that does not make a difference.

[Todd Green]

From what I understand, yes. I do believe the tread pattern is different, but obviously that does not make a difference.

Drago posted that he found the R7's were different:

 

On a side note.. Hoosier asked me to test a set of new tires yesterday. The are the new R7, basically the sm7 compound with a new construction. They were really nice. I went out and hammered them for three sessions starting out as stickers. They never even thought of graining, zero wear and lap times were the same and conditions were hotter in each session where I would have expected to go slower. The tires were about a second faster than sm7 I was told. I would tend to agree.

[Charlie James]

Our experience is that to run up front and compete for championships is a lot cheaper in B-Spec than SM and we've done both.

A full season on brake pads and 2-3 weekends on any of the harder racing tires. If you use the BFG-R1S or the Hoosier A tires, it's more like 1-2 weekends.

Of course that's only on the front 2 as we switch the fronts to rear when they give up time.

Other consumables are negligible.

Towing, lodging and entry fees make the other costs look small.

 

We have 2 front running Mini Coopers for sale - http://www.saferacer...ooper-race-cars

 

It's a fun class and the cars very enjoyable to race.

[lostcaptcha]

I ran a Toyota Yaris this year and could get about a season out of 6 tires give or take rotating and flipping them, and over a season on a set of brakes.   I run BFG R1S so there pretty heatcycled out by the time I replaced them, but I imagine that they would be competitive for around 2 weekends give or take.  

The motor I was running had 130k give or take and easily would have lasted a few seasons, I did swap it out for a fresh one earlier in the year, but ended up money shifting early in the season and had to go back to an older engine.  The Yaris will go about 7.5-8 minutes a gallon which I'm sure is similar to pretty much every other car in the class.  

 

To be honest I did very little maintenance on the car I ran all season, after the car was torn down after the runoffs, even with my trip deep in the gravel I haven't found anything broken, loose, or even wrong.  All in I want to say I spent around $4.5k for my whole season, including entry fees, gas, lodging, tires, and part costs.  The only downside is my car wasn't exactly competitive and I'm not exactly a competitive driver.  

 

 

-Bobby

[Ranchracer]

Just wanted to thank everyone for all the great information. We've made our decision and are going B-Spec racing next year!

[Ranchracer]

Ok guys, looking for one last bit of input. There are actually a couple of 5-speed Sport models here at local dealers and I'm thinking about picking one up this weekend. But first...

Things I really like about the Mazda2:

1.) It looks like it's the least expensive to buy, and least expensive to build out of all the B-spec approved cars. I should be able to pick up a new base Sport for about 14k. The Mazda B-spec kit is $2,500. The cage kit from sBox is $1,500. Figure another 1k for a good seat, $300 for belts, $500 for a fire system, $300 for a wheel and quick release, $1,400 for three sets of wheels, $2,400 for a couple sets of dry tires and one set of rains, and another $500 for window nets and "other". So all in I figure I can do it for about 25k. And hopefully I get a full season on those two sets of tires, so I'll just have fuel and entry costs on race weekends.

2.) Mazda's SCCA Majors and divisional championship contingency program looks to be the best of all the manufacturers.

3.) I really like Mazda's support of grass roots racing in general in this country.

Things that I'm a little concerned about with the Mazda:

1.) It's on the very low end of the horsepower ratings. Now, as I understand it the SCCA (and I'm guessing NASA) balances this out by adding weight to the higher horsepower cars, so maybe I'm worried about nothing here??? How does the power deficit affect the Mazda on the straights? Coming out of corners, etc.?

2.) I haven't seen any Mazdas up there in the finishing order, either in the Runoffs this year or in World Challenge. The Mazda lap times at Laguna looked to be about 2 seconds slower than the fastest B-specs out there, which appear to be the Fits, Minis, Sonics, and in Kyle's case the Kia. What's the reason for this? Is it strictly down to the horsepower?

If I'm going to embark on this journey and spend the money on building up a brand new car, it's important that I be able to contest for wins at the national level, as that's mainly where I'll be racing. For those of you racing the Mazda, are you happy with it, or are you finding it difficult to keep pace with the Kias, Minis, Hondas, and Chevys?

Thanks!
Eric

[Todd Green]

1.) It looks like it's the least expensive to buy, and least expensive to build out of all the B-spec approved cars. I should be able to pick up a new base Sport for about 14k. The Mazda B-spec kit is $2,500. The cage kit from sBox is $1,500. Figure another 1k for a good seat, $300 for belts, $500 for a fire system, $300 for a wheel and quick release, $1,400 for three sets of wheels, $2,400 for a couple sets of dry tires and one set of rains, and another $500 for window nets and "other". So all in I figure I can do it for about 25k. And hopefully I get a full season on those two sets of tires, so I'll just have fuel and entry costs on race weekends.

I'd add in $2K for data acq, dash, sensors etc., if you are serious about winning at a National level.

[Kyle Keenan]

Todd, Data systems not allowed per rules, unless it plugs into the ODB2 port or is all GPS, you cannot use it. Most B-Spec guys use an AIM solo.

 

I've got a water temp gauge and that's it.
 

[Ranchracer]

Todd, Data systems not allowed per rules, unless it plugs into the ODB2 port or is all GPS, you cannot use it. Most B-Spec guys use an AIM solo.
 
I've got a water temp gauge and that's it.

Yeah I thought that's what I'd read in the GCRs.

[lostcaptcha]

I ran a VBOX for most of the season but yeah I couldn't hook up break line and string puck sensors like I wanted.  With most of the BS cars you can pull steering angle, throttle position and even in some case brake position all from OBD2 its just a matter of having the CAN data.  
 

[Danny Steyn]

Dave Wheeler built a Mazda 2 B Spec. He should be able to answer most of your questions.

[Todd Green]

Todd, Data systems not allowed per rules, unless it plugs into the ODB2 port or is all GPS, you cannot use it. Most B-Spec guys use an AIM solo.

 

I've got a water temp gauge and that's it.
 

Doh! Forgot about the no-sensor rule.  Still cost would be about the same since you'd have to get the OBDII interface to get that sort of data then.

 

9.1.10.29 Stand-alone data acquisition systems (GPS or accelerometer-based) are allowed.