For Reverence (Near the start of the SCCA GCR for SM):
C. AUTHORIZED MODIFICATIONS
The following items represent the only modifications and safety items
permitted and/or required on Spec Miata automobiles other than safety
items as required in Section 9. Permitted components or modifications
must not perform a prohibited function. Updating or backdating is not
allowed for any car, model, specification, or component, except as specifically
authorized in these rules.
(Portions of the complete section wording removed for brevity)
All engines and internal components used in rebuilding or refurbishment
must have been offered for sale by Mazda in the US for the correct year
and VIN of car, except as otherwise provided for in these rules. This rule
prevents use of aftermarket parts or Mazda parts of incorrect specification
or application.
Assembly, rebuild, and refurbishment procedures, and all associated
dimensions must adhere to the published factory service procedures,
except as otherwise stated in these rules. No components may be added
or omitted from those specified by the published factory service procedures.
All components must be standard dimensions.
It is permitted to use industry standard procedures to repair damaged non-engine components
(e.g., welding a transmission or differential housing)......
Duncan, based on the above wording and review of all of my Mazda service manual information, I find nothing to support being able to make this "industry standard procedure" as this is an engine component. This is why I have added this item in a recent post I made relative to a rewrite of the SM section 9.1.7 f "Cylinder Head" (which was recently updated per RM-14-20). under the forum topic of "Why the Petition Standard" comment #16.
Bench Racer: your question-Duncan, curious, my first question would be, how did the threaded plug hole become stripped.
Funny you should ask, as it happened we spent the week one "night" in the "Purple" lot of Mazda Raceway performing this exact feat because shortly before the Runoff's I had installed our refreshed engine which had a new "Pro" head and .010 overbore. We spent the morning sessions of the 9/28 practice day breaking in the engine and scuffing tires. We completed the rest of the day running at full power but during the last session of the day my son came in complaining of a mis-fire which we attributed to possibly being low of fuel. We added fuel but he came in after less then a lap only this time the car had a loud noise under the hood that turned out to be coming from the #3 spark plug due to compression pressure escaping. Turns out this happened through no fault BUT my own as I had installed the spark plugs but not torqued them as they were not the ones intended to be raced. The #3 plug had worked itself loose and in the process aluminium had seized to the plug threads such that when installing a new plug it was found that it wound not hold a torque. So that is how I know it can happen other than a gorilla installing your plugs. I typically use anti-seize and torque to 15 fr-lbs.
Needless to say I then elected to remove the head from the vehicle as I did not want to risk aluminium shavings getting in the cylinder even though there are ways to capture all but the smallest. Once I head the head off I went to a local NAPA store to procure a tool and also see who they recommended as a machine shop competent to perform this as the car trailer is not the best shop in the world. I did get a recommendation and elected to let them do the thread repair work. They said they would not be able to do it that day but leave it and they would do it the next morning. Sure enough the next morning about 10:30 I get a call the head is ready and I can come pick it up for the very fair price (for Monterey) of $60. I immediately make the 20 min trip to town and pick the head up and return to install it.
Now for the good part. As I go to align the cams for purposes of having them properly positions to install the timing belt I find that they are very difficult to turn and upon closer examination I find that there is a sticky coating over everything in the head (cams, lifters and aluminium). I also found a red, rusty watery liquid when I removed the cam bearing caps It turns out that the Machine Shop had put the fully assembled head (which I had delivered in a sealed plastic container) in a water based parts cleaning tank without asking if I was OK or even bothering to tell me that they had. As a result, I had to completely disassemble the head needing to use WD-40 to free up the lifters to even get them out of the bores.
This is why I always have concern with respect to the ability of "Independents"/"do it yourself'er's to be able to have explicit/detailed rules related machining processes performed merely by dropping their parts off and requesting want they want done even if they provide a copy of the rules to be followed. You just never know what you don't know they might do! Very few have access to shops that allow them in the back room much less oversee the work being done. It is also why I took a crack at trying to reduce some of the ambiguity in the wording of the Cylinder Head section however it seems everyone has gotten bored with this and is moving on based on the lack of feedback good or bad
Rich Powers.