17 replies to this topic

[TommyB]

In the event of a post race tech brought about by a high finish or random selection .....and you are required to remove your cylinder head, what parts would ideally or required to be replaced before starting the re- assembly?

 

I'm thinking for the sure the valve cover gasket and head gasket, anything else? How about any of the intake or exhaust manifold gaskets or seals.

 

Also, is it realistic to think you would attempt a DIY re-assembly at the track or just drag it home and begin the process there?

 

Thanks

 

Tom B.

 

 

 

 

[Jim Drago]

In the event of a post race tech brought about by a high finish or random selection .....and you are required to remove your cylinder head, what parts would ideally or required to be replaced before starting the re- assembly?

You are not required to do anything. You can pack up and go home. But it is in the rules, so you could face a suspension and a fine if you choose not to.

I'm thinking for the sure the valve cover gasket and head gasket, anything else? How about any of the intake or exhaust manifold gaskets or seals.
 
Also, is it realistic to think you would attempt a DIY re-assembly at the track or just drag it home and begin the process there?
 
Thanks
 
Tom B.

Normal head gasket set. I guess you could reassemble at track, but we normmally bring home to do it.

[Brian129]

I was thinking about this

and obviously the guys that might drive the car to the track would need to bring gaskets and reassemble.

But what about the open trailer guys( like myself)
I would not want to pull home from a distance event with the motor open.
I assume you would loosely reassemble to seal, and then tare it back down when you get home
I guess adding a head gasket set to the spares is a good idea. And getting my winch working, if I don't have an engine to drive it up with.


But then, what would one do if you lost a head? In both cases listed it was obvious blatant cheating was not the issue. So these drivers were not thinking oh, I might get my head confiscated.
And do they keep everything? Or just the offending casting?
Valves, springs, cams or I that just he way it goes?

Just curious, I'm nobody, the only thing I'll get protested for is being a rolling chicane

[Danny Steyn]

SCCA is only supposed to retain the non compliant part. So if they call you in to tech shed to show you your non compliant head, make sure you disassemble the head and retain your valves, springs, cams etc.

 

We very seldom reassemble at the track. We stuff wads of CLEAN rags into the cylinders, tape over them to ensure they stay there. This past year I took my engine home in pieces on three occasions. It is a pain, but its part of the price we pay to run in this highly competitive class, that requires stringent specs and strict policing of the specs.

[Duncan]

I was thinking about this

and obviously the guys that might drive the car to the track would need to bring gaskets and reassemble.

But what about the open trailer guys( like myself)
I would not want to pull home from a distance event with the motor open.
I assume you would loosely reassemble to seal, and then tare it back down when you get home
I guess adding a head gasket set to the spares is a good idea. And getting my winch working, if I don't have an engine to drive it up with.


But then, what would one do if you lost a head? In both cases listed it was obvious blatant cheating was not the issue. So these drivers were not thinking oh, I might get my head confiscated.
And do they keep everything? Or just the offending casting?
Valves, springs, cams or I that just he way it goes?

Just curious, I'm nobody, the only thing I'll get protested for is being a rolling chicane

You can always bolt the head back on with the old head gasket for the drive home. In case of confiscation, I suggest a trash bag and some tape.

Duncan

[Jamz14]

 And getting my winch working, if I don't have an engine to drive it up with.
 

Having your winch setup is a good idea period. I think you will end up using it many more times for a car that isn't running for other reasons than tech. I personally don't know how guys do it, driving their cars to the track. To drive at 8-9 tenths, on the rev limiter or close to it all the time, driving with nut jobs that find this fun. The odds you are not driving that car home one day are too high to make me comfortable at the track without a trailer and a way to get a non running car on to it.

[Ron Alan]

2 guys with good ramps...3 guys with any kind of ramps easily push a car on! 

 

If tech is requesting a head pull...valves will be coming out! Its not going back together at the track!

[ChrisA]

Makes me think perhaps I should get a winch for my open trailer. I've got to put my trucks rear up on ramps for the car to clear the ramp/trailer intersect. Think it would difficult to push the car up there. How strong of winch is needed?

[mhiggins10]

Makes me think perhaps I should get a winch for my open trailer. I've got to put my trucks rear up on ramps for the car to clear the ramp/trailer intersect. Think it would difficult to push the car up there. How strong of winch is needed?

At a dumb guess:

 

2300# for an NA 1.6

2350# for an NA 1.8

2400# for an NB

 

[James York]

At a dumb guess:

 

2300# for an NA 1.6

2350# for an NA 1.8

2400# for an NB

 

But you are not lifting your car vertically with a winch.

 

If you want to be super accurate, you'll need to know your angle of incline and do some calcs based on angle.  For example a 2500 lbs car will need about a 500 lb winch to go up 10 degrees.  1000 lb winch can pull up to about 25 degrees.

[Jamz14]

2 guys with good ramps...3 guys with any kind of ramps easily push a car on! 

 

If tech is requesting a head pull...valves will be coming out! Its not going back together at the track!

Not with a wadded up front end that isn't rolling are they pushing it onto the trailer.

[Jamz14]

Go to home depot. There you can find a strap winch come-along for about $35.00 that will pull the whole car as a non rolling wad of metal up onto the trailer.

[Tom Sager]

 

 

2300# for an NA 1.6

2350# for an NA 1.8

2400# for an NB

 

Looked into my crystal ball and it says:

2275# for NA1.6

2350# for NA1.8 (with a slightly lighter restrictor plate)

2400# for '99 and '00

2425# for '01+ (unless you are F. Todaro in which case 2450#)

[Jim Drago]

Looked into my crystal ball and it says:
2275# for NA1.6
2350# for NA1.8 (with a slightly lighter restrictor plate)
2400# for '99 and '00
2425# for '01+ (unless you are F. Todaro in which case 2450#)

that would make entirely too much sense

[Diller]

Just as a point of reference I had a 2500# ATV winch on my trailer and had no problem pulling a 3000# Mustang up. They can be had at Harbor Freight for under $100. I ended up moving to a 3500# for $150 because I didn't like the cordless remote. Well worth the money to load the car up on the trailer without having to drive it up.

[CARacer]

Having your winch setup is a good idea period. I think you will end up using it many more times for a car that isn't running for other reasons than tech. I personally don't know how guys do it, driving their cars to the track. To drive at 8-9 tenths, on the rev limiter or close to it all the time, driving with nut jobs that find this fun. The odds you are not driving that car home one day are too high to make me comfortable at the track without a trailer and a way to get a non running car on to it.

I've done about 40 events over the last 4 years, and only had to tow the car home once. The odds are there, but they're not all that bad. If something does happen, you do the same thing you do when your road car gets smashed by someone who was texting: you call a tow truck.

 

 

I've had to get the car onto trailers with no power twice (engine problem only, car rolled fine). Once we had 3-4 guys push it up and the other time I used the starter (with the clutch switch override, obviously). It drained most of the battery, but a year and a half later the same starter and battery are still going strong.

[FTodaro]

Looked into my crystal ball and it says:

2275# for NA1.6

2350# for NA1.8 (with a slightly lighter restrictor plate)

2400# for '99 and '00

2425# for '01+ (unless you are F. Todaro in which case 2450#)

Oh good, i can go off my diet then.

[Bench Racer]

Couldn't help myself, the following Saul post is copied from thread, Cut Switch Wires. 

 

 

The engine won't run any different if you short the clutch interlock switch.
 
I short this switch on all my cars, street or race, for two reasons:
1.  When you push the clutch in to start the car, you are loading the ONE crankshaft thrust "saddle" bearing with the full pressure plate load, and you are doing so DRY, with no oil pressure or oil flow.
2.  You can "drive" the car onto a trailer or elsewhere using the starter motor, if and when needed.
 
As is well known, the clutch interlock switch was originally implemented only in cars sold in Texas, where drivers are normally too busy hoisting state flags and adjusting beltbuckles and cowboy (shock) hat rake angle and blueprinting spurs and rasslin' steers (and racks and pinions), and thus cannot be bothered to depress the clutch or put the transmission in Neutral prior to turning that there engine startin' thing, y'all.