7 replies to this topic

[juliancates]

I bought a 1991 SM in the offseason, and it has been log booked with SCCA, NASA, and MWC for many years. I was quite surprised to find that the kill switch, although it did kill the engine and prevent starting, doesn't kill the battery. I found out when I accidentally hit the headlight actuator button with the kill switch "off" and lo and behold the headlights pop up. Oops. Brake lights function too.

Turns out whoever built it just used a two-pole switch to interrupt what I'm assuming is the ignition switch, and turning the switch off is more or less electrically equivalent to turning the ignition key off. Not good.




So, since I have the two-pole switch already, I figure I might as well re-use it, and it appears that the DaveW method of wiring up the kill switch just uses a two-pole switch anyway. Sounds like a lot of folks have used this method, so I assume it's pretty sound.

I found a diagram on the old site:




So my questions are:

1. Does anybody have a textual description of the above that they wouldn't mind sharing? I'd like to make sure I'm connecting to the correct location on the starter and ignition switch. Alternator connection looks straightforward.

2. This one is definitely a remedial question. Where the heck does the positive battery cable run? I see it disappear in the trunk, and never see it reappear in the cabin:




So, is it best to interrupt it in the trunk and run a cable from there to the kill switch and then another one back? Seems like there would be a better way, and looking at Dave's kit, there doesn't appear to be more than one large gauge cable.

Any feedback here would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

[davew]

Call or email me direct ( do not use the PM system as that goes to spam and I may not see it) and I can fax or email the instructions for my switch to you on Monday

Dave

[juliancates]

Call or email me direct ( do not use the PM system as that goes to spam and I may not see it) and I can fax or email the instructions for my switch to you on Monday

Dave

Thanks a ton, Dave, I just shot you an e-mail. Very much appreciate it!

[juliancates]

2. This one is definitely a remedial question. Where the heck does the positive battery cable run? I see it disappear in the trunk, and never see it reappear in the cabin:

Definitely an easy one. My previous car had a trunk mounted battery and a 1 AWG running through the cabin and through the front firewall. I guess I was expecting this to do the same, and I had the car on the ground so couldn't see where it really went. Got the car back up on stands and took a look underneath tonight and it was pretty apparent that the battery cable runs under the car along the PPF.

[Glenn]

Call or email me direct ( do not use the PM system as that goes to spam and I may not see it) and I can fax or email the instructions for my switch to you on Monday

Dave

So using this method you do NOT have to shunt any other systems, like fuel pump, or igniton.....SWEET!

[George Munson]

I started using "davew's" shut switch system after paying someone to do my first car. As it turns out there were several cut wires that became issues later. Thanks again Dave!

[Mike Van Eepoel]

I used Dave Wheeler's method to install my kill switch over the weekend. I too had a tough time moving the white wire from the alt to the starter. It's really tough to see everything under the intake manifold. Got it done and works with no issue. Thumbs up!

[luvin_the_rings]

Hey guys, what kill switch button did you use to fit inside the eyeball vents?  Is there one that is well known to fit easily?