16 replies to this topic

[Brycekk808]

Hi guys im looking to maybe buy a stock 1999 miata to make into a spec miata. On a lot of forums people say to start of with a 150k strong "donor" car, how many miles does a miata engine usually last strong? I am not sure if i should look for something with less than 100k miles or what. I appreciate it! Thanks

[Johnny D]

Welcome,

IMO, I guess the answer is it depends on your plans/budget/situation...

 

99's a good choice.

150K is a bit tired.

Some run it.

Some rebuild all or some of it.

Some get a fresh one.

Maybe show us the ad

 

You can rent or own.

Build it or Buy it done.

 

We have the search box in the upper right, also classifieds to give you an idea.

J~

[Brycekk808]

Welcome,

IMO, I guess the answer is it depends on your plans/budget/situation...

 

99's a good choice.

150K is a bit tired.

Some run it.

Some rebuild all or some of it.

Some get a fresh one.

Maybe show us the ad

 

You can rent or own.

Build it or Buy it done.

 

We have the search box in the upper right, also classifieds to give you an idea.

J~

If i am to buy one i would want to build it. What is an engine mileage i should look for that i can run for a while without rebuilding and keep it stock? and what should the cost be of a car be with that engine mileage with the rest of the car in good condition?

[Johnny D]

Well that also depends on the nut behind the wheel

So I've seen some go as far as 230k

They're a strong engine.

On the otherhand the waterpump and other things may go out.

And if you miss a shift and zing the engine you may hurt it as well.

 

Maybe some others here will chime in.

J~

[RazerX]

Okay, I think using a stock motor is a great way to get started.  I know of several engines 150k that were fine a for a few of years.  I had one go two seasons, then a 25hr race and i pulled it when it finally got tired.  Honestly more than the miles is how the car was driven and maintained.  IMO, do a compression and leak down.  If it is reasonable run if for a while.   

[Brycekk808]

Okay, I think using a stock motor is a great way to get started. I know of several engines 150k that were fine a for a few of years. I had one go two seasons, then a 25hr race and i pulled it when it finally got tired. Honestly more than the miles is how the car was driven and maintained. IMO, do a compression and leak down. If it is reasonable run if for a while.

Do you usually have someone do the test for you or is it easy enough to buy the tools and get the same measurement as a mechanic that does it?

[Bench Racer]

If you were to Google, youtube compression test and youtube leak down you would have two learning sessions and then decide you or mechanic. Another way would be to hook up with someone whose into cars with experience.

[Jim Drago]

The donor is the one of the least expensive part of the build. The biggest mistake people make when building a sm is trying to save a thousand dollars on a donor. Buy the best one you can find and afford. I would try and stay under 100k, but more important than actual mileage is condition . 135k well taken care of donor is better than 85k donor that has not been taken care of

[Caveman-kwebb99]

It depends on how competitive you plan to be these engines will last over 200k miles on the street with proper oil changes.

No stock engine will ever be competitive if run as stock no matter if it has 1k or 200k.

If your just out for fun run what you bring no matter the miles.

If your building a car for the front you will be building an engine regardless.

[davew]

To expand on what Jim posted. You will spend $10,000 to $15,000 in parts and have 300 hours of your labor. Based on the fact that you stated no knowledge or equipment to do a compression test, I would expect 500 hours due to you inexperience as a mechanic.

 

With that in mind, does the difference between a $3000 POS donor and a $4000 well maintained low mileage donor make any real difference?

 

Moral of the story, money spent on a quality donor will pay you back during the build process.

 

Suggestions; read this forum a lot, use the search function as there are very few new questions. Read my book and the GCR for the club you plan on racing with. Do all this before spending any money.

 

dave

[Brycekk808]

To expand on what Jim posted. You will spend $10,000 to $15,000 in parts and have 300 hours of your labor. Based on the fact that you stated no knowledge or equipment to do a compression test, I would expect 500 hours due to you inexperience as a mechanic.

With that in mind, does the difference between a $3000 POS donor and a $4000 well maintained low mileage donor make any real difference?

Moral of the story, money spent on a quality donor will pay you back during the build process.

Suggestions; read this forum a lot, use the search function as there are very few new questions. Read my book and the GCR for the club you plan on racing with. Do all this before spending any money.

dave

Thanks, what does that labor mainly consist of?

[fotostars]

Get Dave's book -> That will give you an idea of what needs to be done. It was an immense resource for me.

I read it 20 times before starting to work on the car!

I built mine out of a street car I had, if you're inclined to learn and buy tools along the way, you can do a lot yourself...

 

But roughly, here is what needs to get done to have a legal car (may not be competitive but it gets you to the grid and racing).

 

* gut all the interior, carpet, seats, door cards, door windows, Airbags, soft top,...

* Roll Cage fabrication (or installation of pre-maid) following the GCR safety regulation

* Window net installation, roll cage padding

* Driver Seat bracket fabrication/installation

* fabricate/drill Harness attaching points

* Kill switch installation/wiring

* Replace all suspension parts with Spec (Shocks, springs, hat, swaybars)

* Install fire bottle or fire system

* Empty coolant, replace with distilled water.

* Get Spec legal wheels/tires

* Camera mount (NASA requires a camera running during all sessions, don't know about other clubs)

 

Options:

* Install race pads / flush brake system with racing fluid

* Quick release racing steering wheel

* Idiot lights for critical stuff (Oil pressure, Water temp, shift lights...)

* Data acquisition

* Coolshirt system

[Brycekk808]

Get Dave's book -> That will give you an idea of what needs to be done. It was an immense resource for me.
I read it 20 times before starting to work on the car!
I built mine out of a street car I had, if you're inclined to learn and buy tools along the way, you can do a lot yourself...

But roughly, here is what needs to get done to have a legal car (may not be competitive but it gets you to the grid and racing).

* gut all the interior, carpet, seats, door cards, door windows, Airbags, soft top,...
* Roll Cage fabrication (or installation of pre-maid) following the GCR safety regulation
* Window net installation, roll cage padding
* Driver Seat bracket fabrication/installation
* fabricate/drill Harness attaching points
* Kill switch installation/wiring
* Replace all suspension parts with Spec (Shocks, springs, hat, swaybars)
* Install fire bottle or fire system
* Empty coolant, replace with distilled water.
* Get Spec legal wheels/tires
* Camera mount (NASA requires a camera running during all sessions, don't know about other clubs)

Options:
* Install race pads / flush brake system with racing fluid
* Quick release racing steering wheel
* Idiot lights for critical stuff (Oil pressure, Water temp, shift lights...)
* Data acquisition
* Coolshirt system

I appreciate it! A lot of that stuff I already had down so I had an idea

[davew]

Shops that work on Spec Miatas all day, every day (like myself or Jim or Tom) are going to spend 100-125 hours building a car from scratch. The common theory is that an experienced mechanic doing the build the first time is going to spend 300 hours. And non-experienced guys around 500 hours. I know I have every tool I need already. When I find a bad part, I go to the shelf and grab another one. Back to work in 2 minutes. While you go the phone and order parts and are back to work in 2 days.

 

If you spend 8 hours every Saturday and every Sunday, along with 2 hours per day during the week, you only get 26 hours a week. Using 300 hours, you build time is 12 weeks. Assuming nothing goes wrong and you are able to keep up that schedule. Which is pretty hard to do for a hobby that you have not even started yet.

 

Don't get me wrong, it is HUGELY rewarding to race a car you built yourself. I am just trying to give you information ahead of time.

 

If you go to my website, we offer a kit we call a "Spec Miata in a Box". There is a pdf of the contents, print the pdf and you will have a pretty good list of things you will need.

 

Again, read and use the search function before you ask.

 

Dave

[Todd Green]

* Camera mount (NASA requires a camera running during all sessions, don't know about other clubs)

 

Where is this rule located?  I keyword searched the CCR and couldn't find it.

[Johnny D]

Where is this rule located?  I keyword searched the CCR and couldn't find it.

Could just be in SFR, in the supps, but I haven't looked. Certainly mentioned in the drivers meeting here.
J~

[Tom Hampton]

I appreciate it! A lot of that stuff I already had down so I had an idea

If you want to see what all that work looks like in pictures (and prose), click the link in my sig.