3 replies to this topic

[BlueJay73]

That's all this is. An observation, not a question.

It takes an inordinate amount of time to position the seat to one's comfortable driving position.

Kirkey Halo seat, mounted on floor through the bottom of the seat.

Measure, guesstimate, with the seat moving all around while trying to judge the right distance from the pedals.

Test fit, remove seat, test fit, remove seat, and on, and on, and on...

Drill holes in seat bottom and car floor and stick some bolts in there to keep seat still.

Test fit, remove seat, test fit, remove seat...

Feels ok, I think.

Tighten up nuts under car floor.

Fit back brace to seat back, drill hole for pin and attach back brace.

Would the pedals feel a little better if the seat was moved forward an inch? How about two inches?

Remove nuts and bolts holding seat in.

Drill more holes.

Test fit, remove, test fit, remove...

Nuts, bolts...

Two inches is too much. Let's go back a half an inch.

Drill holes, test fit, remove... . Nuts, bolts...

Disassemble back brace, drill new hole for back brace pin, reassemble back brace.

Jeez. Maybe I'll just wear thicker or thinner shoes.

 

[Diller]

Very true story. After the cage, this is the most frustrating thing about building a race car IMO. At the end of the day you look at the Swiss Cheese floor and hope that you haven't compromised it too much.

[Jamz14]

I hear you! I just purchased East St seat mount hoping to avoid this problem. We will see how it works out.

[Tom Hampton]

I won't pretend to be an expert, but I fit my seat without drilling holes multiple times.  There is no question that the process is somewhat tedious.  The process I used is somewhat documented here:

 

http://www.tomhampton.info/tag/seat/

 

http://www.tomhampto...ers-seat-mount/

 

http://www.tomhampto...-ready-to-weld/

 

 

Essentially the process involved creating a temporary base that the seat could rest on at the proper layback angle. 

 

Then I aligned the seat to the steering column...making liberal marks on the floor to aid in alignment.  I used a plumb to drop a mark from the steering column to the floor, and drew a line floor to mark the steering column axis.  The a couple marks on the foreward and rearward edge of the seat makes it easy to ensure it is aligned and centered on the coumn. 

 

With a stable platform for the seat bottom to rest on, and a helper to ensure the axis marks remain aligned to the steering column, its fairly straight forward to set the seat in place, and slide fore/aft until the proper alignment is obtained.  While still seated in the desired position, I marked the foreward edge of the seat. 

 

I then crawled out, and used clamps/straps/wood bracing to temporarily hold the seat in-place so that I could put on my helmet and check for interference with the halo/roof/etc and adequate room for egress.  These problems were caused by lateral and/or layback issues.  So, then it was a matter of re-adjusting the platform for more/less layback, or intentially offsetting from the centerline. 

 

Repeat.  Once the final position is determined, make careful marks and drill once. 

 

I mounted my seat to steel rails that angle from the forward stock mount to the floor.  The lowest point on my seat is about 1/2" above the floor pan.