5 replies to this topic

[BlueJay73]

Front removal and replacement of studs was easy.

 

Rears:

How do you replace the rear studs?

Can the studs be removed/replaced by just cutting off the dust shield, or must the hub be removed?

I looked in my Chilton's manual about removing the rear hub, and they simply said don't do it, not a job for the DIY'er.

So, if rear hub has to be removed, how do you do it?

Thanks,

Jim

 

 

EDIT:

Easily removed the rear dust shield. Longer stud does indeed go on just by cutting of the dust shield. Now I see why there is a flat edge on one side of the stud flange.

Still don't know how one would remove the rear hub.

[Ron Alan]

You figured it out!

Unlike the fronts, you don't just slide on/off a hub/bearing on the rears. The bearing has to be pressed in/out of the rear upright along with the hub...they are 2 separate pieces. If you want to keep spares you need the whole upright. Tough to change just a rear bearing at the track!

[Johnny D]

http://mazdaracers.c...-rear-knuckles/

J~

[Johnny D]

Keep in mind the longer studs are really for using standoffs/spacers like if you have 38mm offset wheels or you want a wider track, all depends on the tire size/width too your running. (in an endure class)

A lot of SM drivers run the stock studs with the correct offset 30 or 25, (a lot can't tell the difference, 25 is wider) because they're the smallest and lightest, less mass.

Some upgrade to ARP studs for stronger, I haven't weighed them if they're lighter, I assume so.

J~

[BlueJay73]

I have Joengblood 30 offset wheels. I use the 17mm open ended lug nuts.

The reason I'm installing the longer studs is that the 17mm lug nuts on the stock studs left a few threads showing on the nuts (not the studs).

In other words, fully torqued down, the studs did not extend to the last thread of the nuts. Actually, the studs were short by a few threads.

I think it was probably safe, but I figured some tech guy somewhere would, understandably, balk at letting me on the track.

I've already tracked it a couple of times, and I was just not comfortable with not having a full nut on the studs.

 

As far as tracking the car, man am I slow, I've got a lot to learn. I'm used to tracking a 385 HP Porsche 997.2 with PDK. That car is point and shoot; learn the line, and the car does the rest for you. It is like cheating. The SM, with 38mm restrictor plate, (and a manual trans, of course) is a totally different beast. But, that's for another thread.

 

Jim

[Johnny D]

It's all up to you to be safe and your comfort level.
 
I use Dave Wheelers Advaced autosports lug nuts with no issues in my years of racing.
http://advanced-auto...products_id=149

 

As for track, I was talking about track width, from outside tire to outside tire measured along the axle. I don't remember the number, it's in the rule book. 1425 ??

It's basically what you get when you run 25's wheels

Be safe, good luck

J~