3 replies to this topic

[Brian129]

I used to have access to a nice 4 post lift,  and I would just roll the car on that and do camber and toe settings. 

It was also a flat surface to measure for ride height, and be able to just lift it up to get under for adjusting the suspension.

 

Anyway,  my lift went away,  and i am left with the shop floor only.  

I know that for every bolt that goes through a bushing it should only be tightened with the full load of the vehicle on it,  so you are at 0 twist in the bushing at ride height.  

How do the work on the car at home guys do this? I'm thinking about maybe a 12" high box for under each wheel,  but they would need to be perfectly square, or else the car would not be sitting flat anymore.  

I have seen scale pads,  but there isn't not a whole lot of room under them to squeeze into either.  

 

I'm missing the lift,  and its only been 3 weeks 

 

[Tom Hampton]

I used to have access to a nice 4 post lift,  and I would just roll the car on that and do camber and toe settings. 

It was also a flat surface to measure for ride height, and be able to just lift it up to get under for adjusting the suspension.

 

Anyway,  my lift went away,  and i am left with the shop floor only.  

I know that for every bolt that goes through a bushing it should only be tightened with the full load of the vehicle on it,  so you are at 0 twist in the bushing at ride height.  

How do the work on the car at home guys do this? I'm thinking about maybe a 12" high box for under each wheel,  but they would need to be perfectly square, or else the car would not be sitting flat anymore.  

I have seen scale pads,  but there isn't not a whole lot of room under them to squeeze into either.  

 

I'm missing the lift,  and its only been 3 weeks 

 

Yep, boxes as you suggest work.  A couple of tips:

 

1.  Make the boxes out of 2x lumber.  Make them bigger than necessary. 

2.  You can use T-nuts and 1/2" bolts with jam-nuts to act as levelers. 

3.  You should have lips that protrude above the top surface on the outside/inside and front/rear to prevent the car from slipping off the pedastal.

4.  Use slip plates (purchased, or made out of 2 industrial tiles with a grease layer....thus the importance of the lips to keep the car from slipping off).

 

I placed mine in place on my garage floor and carefully leveled each one, and to each other.  Use the jam nuts to lock the adjustments when complete.  Then I marked each box with its orientation and location.  Then I marked their exact position on the floor.  Now I simply place them back on their marks, and check for level.  I haven't had to readjust, yet. 

 

NOTE: Its best to get the car into position on the stands without the slip plates.  Then to jack slightly to insert/remove the slip plates.  Again remove the plates from all 4 wheels before dropping off the stands. 

[tLinder]

Here's an example of some wooden ones (not mine)

https://www.facebook...2&type=1r

 

And I've seen these on eBay

http://www.ebay.com/...=item2800f0967e

[Bench Racer]

To keep loading car to stands simple, use you jack lift height as the stand height indicator. Don't get/make stands so high that you need to do a double lift to get car on stands.