10 replies to this topic

[DavidNJ]

I'm looking at getting a Spec Miata. I've tried searching but the search terms '1.6L' or `1.6 vs 1.8', etc don't seem to work well.

 

What is the best way to find threads about the 4 (or more) different Spec Miata combinations. Add in discussions about 1.6L Miatas being prepped for Daytona, different rev ranges, different parts availability (e.g. Mazda no longer offering some NA parts) there seem to be lots of issues.

 

In the Northeast (I'm in NJ) there seem to be 15 car SM2 fields at regionals. The SM2 records seem about 1.5s-2s off the SM times at most tracks. 

 

How do I find threads that go into the details? Are there threads that cover the differences from a 2015 perspective?

 

Note that 1.6 cars are a lot less expensive to purchase, but I'm guessing most are less well prepared.

[Jason J Ball]

Just type parity into the search bar and you'll find endless threads regarding this issue. But if you just want to get out and race, buy a 1.6L for less than half the cost of a 99' and spend the difference on track time. Or if you want to be one of the majors crowd, buy a 99' or VVT at $30k. Either way you'll have a blast with close racing and some of the best amateur racers in the country.

[Bench Racer]

For starters, search Miata under Wikipedia. Learn OEM differences of engines and other stuff. 

Second search this site upper right hand corner by total site or specific forum. Search the word "parity" and you'll get pages of topics. Relax and read.

Make a Spec Miata buddy and learn form him/her and hang at track and learn.

Check out where you intend to race, who and which year car wins in the class you intend to race. 

 

Search for "Parity Thread # 2034", page three, post number 51. It's a dyno graph posted by Jim Drago in 2013 showing three different engines power output overlay. If you don't today, understand torque, horse power and power under the curve. There's a lot more to learn than power but that's a great place to start.  

[Diller]

Also something to keep in mind that I didn't. Look at what cars race in your region. I bought a NA1.8 (1994) because, at the time, it looked like I could get the light weight of a 1.6 but the more torquey 1.8 all for the cost of a 1.6. The thing that I didn't consider is that I am the ONLY NA1.8 racing at most of the races in my region. This means that I have a unique car that nobody else has spares for. Which means I am on my own to stock a trailer full of spares. Cam sensors, ECU, Coil pack, wiring, etc. is all unique to the NA1.8. If I had to do it again I would probably do a 1.6 or save up a little more for an entry level 99 just to help keep the car on track when things start to fail. I didn't care to build/buy a Majors competitive car, just wanted to get on track and learn what it really means to get a car to go fast. That could have been done in any car to be honest. I can always rent a car if I want to go to one of the bigger shows.

[Brandon]

David,

PM me your e-mail address or contact details and we can talk.  I'm in North Jersey and I can give you the whole low-down on everything - if you wanted to know that is.

I'm also a NA1.8 owner, just built an engine (Thanks Kessler!) and am on the SMAC.

 

Welcome to the fold, you're in for a wild ride!

Brandon

[DavidNJ]

Ah...the key word is "parity". I found the graph.

 

One thing I've noticed is comments that there are failures of electric components including breaks in the harness on the older NA cars. After all, they are up to 25 years old.

 

Since a 1.6 or 1.8 NA is likely to be an older build. how do you identify the professional and better builds vs. the home built by someone doing it for the first time; a 2004 runoffs contender vs. a car that at best struggled midpack in regionals?

[Danny Steyn]

DavidNJ - IMHO the most important rule to follow when buying a used race car is to see it perform near the front in a race, wheeled by a competent driver, and then buy it at the track, and take it directly home from the track.

 

Too many cars "lose" the go fast parts on the way to the new buyer.......

[Ron Alan]

DavidNJ - IMHO the most important rule to follow when buying a used race car is to see it perform near the front in a race, wheeled by a competent driver, and then buy it at the track, and take it directly home from the track.

 

Too many cars "lose" the go fast parts on the way to the new buyer.......

Though i agree there are certain "legal" items you hope a car has...which may make it more valuable, not sure what would come off that would make it slower? (I guess that wouldnt be noticed?)

But agree with Danny 100% on seeing the car in action.

 

#1 for me on any car is the cage...dont go beyond that if you feel(or someone tells you)its not up to snuff.

 

Understanding the value of items that are "wear" or "dated" is a must!  Motor, seat, belts, window net, clutch/PP, brakes and drive line items.

Certain items may be better value but not necessary for a legal car. Data, quality radiator, quality exhaust, quality steering wheel, quality seat, fire suppression system, extra gauges/idiot lights, more than 1 set of wheels, and a TRANSPONDER! That right there is a $500 item if not present!

 

Bottom line is make a list and check it! Check what the car was advertised with and what it has. Seeing the car driven to respectable times as Danny said is a bonus! 

[Bench Racer]

 

 

#1 for me on any car is the cage...dont go beyond that if you feel(or someone tells you)its not up to snuff.

When talking about roll cages. They come legally in different diameter tubing with different wall thickness.

Roll cage side protection/side tubes travel from the rear main hoop to font hoop, Some side tubes are straight, some side tubes are what's called NASCAR tubes. NASCAR side tubes protrude into the door cavity and allow legally removing the window and it's up/down levers/cranks and turn handles, straight tubes do not allow removal of same stuff, think lighter car. Many times with straight side tubes your elbows will bang and hammer the straight side tubes, will not happen with well designed NASCAR tubes.

 

Even tho you may or may not be new to race cars, sit in many cars to find comfort and ask questions at the moment or make a list.

 

For example, there are many heavier than minimum requirement 1.6 and 1.8 NA cars. My 1.6 NA car with cool suite water and 1 gallon of gas weighs 2020 pounds. SCCA minimum weight with driver ready to race is 2275 pounds. That's 255 pounds for driver, ballast and whatever. Simply said, if you buy a heavy car, your on the short end of the stick or be ready to spend serious $$$ to get the car to minimum weight.

 

Most of all, Have Fun.

[wreckerboy]

It all depends... upon what your racing goals and desires are.

Planning on running Majors and want to run up front? SM is the droid you seek. Look at what the front of fields consist of and purchase accordingly.
Planning on just getting out on track and having fun? In the NE that means all sorts of options, as you've discovered. SM, SM2, SMT, and probably even SMOMGWTFBBQ for all I know.

But, if you're willing to travel to Summit Point for insane, close competition in 30+ car fields? Not willing to spend a brazillion dollars for the latest trick of the week? Like race tires that wear like iron, get faster as they get older and aren't the latest, greatest, stickiest Hoosier with gravity defying grip but have a life expectancy that can be measured in minutes? Like competition that thanks to a rigorous compliance program isn't an arms race? Check out WDCR's SSM field, buy a 1.6 for reasonable money and have fun.

It's not a bad tow - I'm in central NJ and it's about 300 miles each way. I was just there yesterday for a FATT (Yes, on a Saturday. It's West Virginia.) shaking down the new engine in my'90 and I've made the trip for years because the racing is worth it.

[Mark]

Make friends with an experienced SM racer to mentor you or find a shop that specializes in SM and have them look at the car before you purchase anything. The devil is in the details with a used car and doing things over to make them right is an expensive process.