
Starting problem.. Engine click but wont crank
Started by
RaulNA6
, 08-28-2016 08:27 AM
#1
Posted 08-28-2016 08:27 AM

I got a 1990 mazda miata and have been having problems for quite some time to start.. After i put the key in and turn the car will only make a clic but wont crank, sometime it cranks right away but most times wont.. Anybody can tell me what the problem could be?
I replaced the starter, batter and battery harness with the fuse box, cleaned the fuses and connections under the steering wheel and still the same..
I replaced the starter, batter and battery harness with the fuse box, cleaned the fuses and connections under the steering wheel and still the same..
#2
Posted 08-28-2016 10:39 AM

Do you own or have access to or borrow a Miata factory shop manual? If yes did you follow the starting system troubleshooting procedure? Do you factually know your replacement starter and solenoid is 100% functional?



#3
Posted 08-28-2016 03:30 PM

I've know 3 cars that seem to eat starters...very similar to what you are experiencing. I gave someone a used starter at the track a couple weeks ago after their brand new starter failed. Started right up the first time...after the first or 2nd session...nothing!! Would love to know why this happens...I think it is something other than the starters??
Ron
RAmotorsports


#4
Posted 08-28-2016 03:59 PM

If it's making a single click then it's likely a ground problem (on a typical non-race car anyways. With the cut-off switch on racecars there is a good chance that's part of the problem) . You'll need a voltmeter to check it. Put the positive test lead on the starter body next to where one of the bolts are that hold the starter on. Place the negative lead onto a known good ground on the frame. Hold the key in the start position and check what your meter reads. Let us know what it says. Should be under 1 volt. Ideally under .5 volt.
Another easy way to check the ground side of it is to use a set of jumper cables to temporarily add an extra ground. Connect one black end of the cables to the starter body or bolt. Attach the other end of the black cable to a good ground on the frame. If it starts now then you know you have a ground problem.
Another easy way to check the ground side of it is to use a set of jumper cables to temporarily add an extra ground. Connect one black end of the cables to the starter body or bolt. Attach the other end of the black cable to a good ground on the frame. If it starts now then you know you have a ground problem.
- RacerX likes this
#5
Posted 08-28-2016 05:31 PM

+1 on using the factory manual procedure to diagnose the problem. And same +1 on kill switch and grounds. Power plant frame and engine block ground straps are always good idea to check.
I had a similar issue in my 1990 that took me a long time to figure out. The car came to me with the problem from the previous owner... when turning the ignition I could hear fuel pump running but no start. It was always intermittent and eventually would crank with enough key turning... typically it would happen on the grid when I needed it to start! There was no click though, so it may be that you have a different problem. It turned out to be the connector on the harness side for the ignition switch..a couple of the tabs were fried in there. Was not found when the ignition switch was replaced and I think I figured it out a year after that! In fact I had to take a picture with my phone to see it clearly.I replaced with a new connector and spliced the wires. Hope u find out what it is.
I had a similar issue in my 1990 that took me a long time to figure out. The car came to me with the problem from the previous owner... when turning the ignition I could hear fuel pump running but no start. It was always intermittent and eventually would crank with enough key turning... typically it would happen on the grid when I needed it to start! There was no click though, so it may be that you have a different problem. It turned out to be the connector on the harness side for the ignition switch..a couple of the tabs were fried in there. Was not found when the ignition switch was replaced and I think I figured it out a year after that! In fact I had to take a picture with my phone to see it clearly.I replaced with a new connector and spliced the wires. Hope u find out what it is.
- RacerX likes this
#6
Posted 08-28-2016 07:43 PM

Had the same problem with the ignition switch as above. Same symptoms as OP.
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