4 replies to this topic

[David S.]

Hello, all. I was hoping to get a hand with the install of a Springfield Dyno Radiator into my '91. The upper mounting holes line up and bolt right in. The bottom mounts however don't look anything like the radiator I took out. I had to take the factory lower mount brackets off just to get the radiator into the car. Had to come up from the bottom as the brackets on the radiator are too wide for it to slide down from the top. I can slip the mount bracket back in once the rad is in place but that puts the part that holds the rubber/pin inside the rad bracket. What are you all doing to mount the bottom side of the radiator? I'm thinking the "easiest" way would be to make slots in the radiator brackets so I can put a bolt through them with the OEM rubber piece in the middle. Set the height using the slots then tighten the bolt down. That just seems like a lot of work to mount such an expensive radiator that is meant for this car. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[David S.]

Just in case anybody has an issue in the future:

So once I found the directions on Springfield Dyno's website it wasn't too hard to figure out. The pins don't go inside the bracket. I had to bend my factory upper mounting points to bring the bottom of the radiator towards the front of the car and line up with the oem lower mounts. Then I had to mark and drill the radiator because it didnt have the hole for the pin to go through. I also still had to remove one of the factory lower brackets to slide it up from the bottom. I also had to bend part of the bracket out of the way to keep from hitting the front side of the radiator.

[Brandon]

I too had a hell of a time getting my SD radiator into my car ('96) but I knew I had a slightly tweaked right frame horn (ahead of the shock tower).  Ended up having to do some cutting to the lower radiator brackets to make enough room for the thicker (than my previous Mishimoto) unit but it all ended up fitting, just very, very tightly.

 

Be certain to not have electrical continuity between the radiator and the chassis otherwise you end up with the AL-FE electrolysis process that eats through your radiator.

Google it to be sure but I believe you can check for this with a voltmeter - positive contact in the radiator water, negative on a ground.  A positive voltage above (hit the Google) and you're risking holes.

[ECOBRAP]

That thing was a PITA to install in my car as well. I had issues with the upper mounting points.

 

Used it once then sold it.

[David S.]

Thanks, guys. Hopefully the factory rubber mounts will keep electrical current out of it but I'll check it anyways just to be sure.