9 replies to this topic

[JRHille]

I just finished installing the Innovate LC1 kit and am having some problems. Everything comes on lights and all, did the free air calibration, LED indicator did exactly what the directions said it should do. The gauge just stays at 7.4 blinking. The CD instructions differ from the instructions given on paper, and apparently it should have came with a terminator plug and a 2 sided terminator plug to go from the in to the out which I didn't get (on paper directions say nothing about this plug). Anyone with a 1.6 help me?? 5x racing???

[FTodaro]

The terminator plug on my unit was just a plug that looked like it would plug into a wakman radio. I assume the 7.4 blinking is staying on while running. If you are talking about what its doing with the motor off its normal.

If you do not get a response here, Innovates web has a blog as well as a tech support number where people will actually answer the phone. Give them a call in the AM they will get you fixed up.

[Bench Racer]

7.4 blinking rings a bell but not very loud. Seems as tho that happened during my install. Have you started the car yet.

[JRHille]

7.4 is blinking with the car off and the car running.

[JRHille]

under normal use, what are the in and out cables (the female 2.5mm audio looking jacks) plugged into? anything?

[FTodaro]

7.4 is blinking with the car off and the car running.

Are you using a separate O2 sensor for the innovate or are your just using one sensor and connecting your brown analog wire to the blue wire on the OEM O2 sensor?

I still would call innovate as all we can do is guess. it sounds as if the calibration did not take. it should flash till the sensor gets warm and calibrated then it should go to a steady reading. likely 21.7 as that is the max reading until you get it out on the track.

[Bench Racer]

under normal use, what are the in and out cables (the female 2.5mm audio looking jacks) plugged into? anything?

In my case no. I have only the readout gauge. I looked at my Inovate instructions & had a note for the 7.4 blinking light, the notes also said the red pilot light was on. I know for sure I didn't change anything to get the flashing 7.4 to go away. I'm sure I re-raed the instructions from point 3. First Time Use on & redid what the instructions said, the flshing 7.4 went away & 12.5/13.0 numbers came on the readout gauge. Have not been on Dyno or track yet.

As Frank said, call Inovate.

[JRHille]

Thanks guys, I thought I figured out the problem but it didn't work.

I called innovate after this and they pointed me in the right direction. The directions said the brown and yellow wires were optional for analog outputs, turns out the brown wire has to go to the white wire on the gauge to give it the oxygen sensor reading. Works great now!

[FTodaro]

I thought I had my installed correctly but my first day at the track it just bounced all around not giving me any real reading.
When I first start it wile the sensor is warming up, it says 7.4 which is the min, value. then after the led goes to solid then it read like a steady 21.7 which is the max value on the other end. When i rev the motor or when I was on track it just jumped all over the place high or low.

I did not attach the Brown wire the instructions did not say to connect the brown wire on the standard install.

I installed this for a friend of mine and he was only going to use one bung so we connected the brown wire coming out of the innovate to the blue wire going to the OEM sensor which eliminated the need for that OEM sensor and his works fine. I may have to call them

this is what i followed

1.
The LC-1 has 6 stripped wires. The RED wire should be connected to a switched 12V power source, make sure the connection is fused with a minimum fuse size of 5A. The BLUE and WHITE wires should all be grounded to the same ground source. Optimally, these will be soldered to the same lug, and connected to a single point. When this isn’t possible, connect each one to a separate lug, and attach in close proximity. Multiple lugs on the same bolt is not optimal, and can result in unwanted signal “noise.” When possible, soldering is always better than crimping.
2.
Optionally, the YELLOW (Analog out 1) and/or BROWN (Analog out 2) can be connected to the analog inputs of other devices such as data loggers, gauges, etc.
3.
Connect the LED and momentary push button between the LC-1’s BLACK calibration wire and ground. Connect the red wire (Anode) of the included LED AND one side of the push button to the calibration wire (black) of the LC-1. Connect the black wire (Cathode) of the LED AND the other side of the push button to ground (preferably to the same ground point as the blue and white wires.) Refer to the schematic below.

I did connect the LC-1 brown analog output to the gauge white wire. so i think i have this connected corruptly. I did not hook it up to my PC. I am note sure if the issue is my wiring or something else. I will take my own advise and call.

[JRHille]

Yeah, they should be able to help you right out. The guy I talked to just had me tell him which wires were going where because the directions don't mean anything. Mine stays at 7.4 until it warms up like yours, although I haven't ran it under load. when the LC-1 warms up it shows around 9.5 at idle (don't know if that's right that's why it's at the dyno) Let me know how it goes..see you this weekend!