13 replies to this topic

[bmarshall1]

I have installed a set of Fat Cat bump stops on my 99 and after the initial installation and a corner weighting session, below is where I am on alignment numbers.  Given that I am a bottom 25% driver, is this an alignment suitable for my skill set.  Obviously I need to improve, but I want to assure the car is set up as good as possible.

 

>>Please tell me what, if anything you would change.

 

Prior to the measuring: sways were disconnected, about 2 gallons gas, tires equal at 36 psi, suspension rocked/settled, my ballast weight correctly distributed. Total 2414 lbs

 

>>Rear Camber is maxed at this height

 

Ride height = 4 3/4 front and 4 15/16 rear at pinch welds

Total toe = 1/8 OUT at front, 1/8 IN at rear

Cross weight 50/50 (yes, that close) depending on how the wind blows

Caster @ 5.0 each side

Camber in degrees

     L          R

F  3.6       3.8

 

R  3.4      3.4 - 3.5

[Jim Drago]

I have installed a set of Fat Cat bump stops on my 99 and after the initial installation and a corner weighting session, below is where I am on alignment numbers.  Given that I am a bottom 25% driver, is this an alignment suitable for my skill set.  Obviously I need to improve, but I want to assure the car is set up as good as possible.

 

>>Please tell me what, if anything you would change.

 

Prior to the measuring: sways were disconnected, about 2 gallons gas, tires equal at 36 psi, suspension rocked/settled, my ballast weight correctly distributed. Total 2014 lbs

 

>>Rear Camber is maxed at this height

 

Ride height = 4 3/4 front and 4 15/16 rear at pinch welds

Total toe = 1/8 OUT at front, 1/8 IN at rear

Cross weight 50/50 (yes, that close) depending on how the wind blows

Caster @ 5.0 each side

Camber in degrees

     L          R

F  3.6       3.8

 

R  3.4      3.4 - 3.5

WEIGHT 2014? 2401 MAYBE?

The rest is a good place to start

Jim

[bmarshall1]

WEIGHT 2014? 2401 MAYBE?

The rest is a good place to start

Jim

Good catch on the weight - yes, 2414 lbs

 

thanks for the input.  Would you suggest any changes as I improve?

[chris haldeman]

Bring the rear down a half round and subtract .2 front right camber.

[chris haldeman]

After driving the car a few sessions I would expect the ride heights to drop some ruining all your numbers. Provided nothing slipped just raising the car back up should put everything back inline

[Jim Drago]

Bring the rear down a half round and subtract .2 front right camber.

I would agree on that too.. but if just starting.. you will move that around with driving.. next time you run scale it and it has setlled. I agreee with Chris, make those changes

Jim

[bmarshall1]

Thanks guys - I have an event at Sebring next weekend and Road Atlanta the following weekend.  After that  I will recheck to see if there is any settling and adjust as needed.

 

>>Question about Wedge - Positive Wedge is the LR and RF are 50%+ of the total weight (right?).  If I cannot retain perfect 50/50, is it better to err on the side of positive wedge for clockwise tracks?

 

Now for track specific: I live in central FL and my home track is Sebring, I'll likely be at Daytona, Road Atlanta, and Palm Springs semi frequently.  Any preferred set ups for any of these or just runs the base setting above.

[MPR22]

Let's work on setting expectations. You will be making adjustments for every track. If you don't have time to chase your set up every event then shoot for 50/50. However this will change as things move, so be prepared to make adjustments. From your initial set up you can expect to have to check the ride height after a few sessions not after a couple of weekends.

[Danny Steyn]

Personally I like to make changes in every session. If there is only one test or practice session remaining before qualifying then I make a small adjustment. If there are two sessions remaining, then I make a big swing to see if what I am changing is moving the performance in the right direction, but it also gives me another session to back it off just a bit if I have gone too far. It is very seldom that we run two sessions without making adjustments. Data analysis, tire pressures and temps, as well as video analysis will help you narrow in on the changes that you need to make 

[Jim Drago]

I think that is putting the cart well ahead of the horse.. work on keeping your car at 50/50 and wheels pointed straight and try to nail hot tire pressures to start. Check front and rear toe often and after every of course excursion. Learn what the car is doing, what you like and what you don't. As you gain experience and confidence you can start working on set up changes etc.. FwIw I can run a lap within .2-.3 of my best possible set up at any track less Mid Ohio with the set up Chris and I agreed to above.. So I wouldn't go crazy with adjustments until you gain some experience.

[davew]

I agree with Jim and Chris. If you are at the lower end of the grid, set the car and leave it alone. All the tweeking that Danny talks about will only confuse you.

 

Lower the rear a hair and I would go to only 1/16" toe in for the rear. And I assume you are talking total toe, so each side is 1/2 of the total.

 

Unless the car is completely out in left field, work on the driver more than the car. Working on the car is more fun, but the driver will be more beneficial.

 

Dave

[Bench Racer]

Agree, work on yourself and START TO UNDERSTAND what the car is doing, what your feeling of the car and what your making the car do. Then as you gain seat time, start making changes to the set-up.

 

Most of all, Have Fun

[bmarshall1]

Thanks guys - I brought the back down and double checked the corner weight and all is still good.  I will check the ride height and other specs after these next 2 weekends.  After that I will make the small adjustments recommended (camber and toe) and then improve the 'nut behind the wheel' while checking to see that everything remains within the current specs.

[Bench Racer]

 and then improve the 'nut behind the wheel' .

And then improve the spacer between the seat and steering wheel.