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transmission difficult first and reverse (twice)

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#1
n1gzd

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Hi,

My last two transmissions (including the new rebuild just installed) is fine on the track but in the paddock shifting into reverse are very very difficult (first difficult too but not as bad as reverse). If the engine is not running I can put it through all gears normally. If the engine is running and i was not just already in that gear it is very difficult. Reverse is the worst.

 

Common scenario: Drive out to the grid and worker signals for me to back into my spot and I can't get it into reverse.

 

I have no trouble getting it out of reverse.

 

Should I investigate whether the crush washer is too crushed (or missing)? Would that make it hard to get into reverse (it is not getting stuck in reverse).

 

I have no reason to thin that my clutch hydraulics are an issue (all parts pretty new and I bleed it now and then). I have not tried bleeding it again.

 

Rebecca

 



#2
Bench Racer

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Rebecca, have you reached out to whoever rebuilt your transmission and asked them, why the issue?

 

From long distance and can't feel/hear what's going on.

Are you always pushing the clutch pedal fully to the firewall?

Are the pieces in the shift lever turret in good shape?

I use silver anti seize grease on the shift ball on end of shift lever and on other parts surrounding the shift ball.

I pour transmission grease into the turret cavity where the shift ball is inserted. Not so much that it overflows, just to cover the bottom of the cavity.


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#3
FTodaro

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There are several reasons that could come into play. First even with new clutch components it may be out of adjustment. You want to make sure the clutch pedal is all the way to the top no play. you want the clutch to open as soon as possible.

 

You said new components both slave and master?

 

Lastly on the trans, hard shifting in the rev, could be due to a poor 5/R shift hub ring, they get beat up due to poor shimming of the gear stack and i normally replace them if they are too bad. It can also be due to a broken tab from a sync, but that should not be the issue if was a new rebuild.

 

So the low hanging fruit is the clutch pedal adjustment first. Try doing some shifting with the motor off and see if there is a difference, if so, its an adjustment issue.


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Frank
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#4
Ron Alan

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Wont fix the problem but start car in gear with clutch in! Did this in one of my cars for a long time... 


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#5
Steve Scheifler

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Someone please correct me if I’m mistaken but I believe that some rebuilders fudge a little in assembly specs in a way that slightly improves some shifts at the expense of being a bit more difficult to engage 1st (or was it reverse?) while parked.
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#6
Jim Drago

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Someone please correct me if I’m mistaken but I believe that some rebuilders fudge a little in assembly specs in a way that slightly improves some shifts at the expense of being a bit more difficult to engage 1st (or was it reverse?) while parked.

 it might be reverse ;)


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#7
n1gzd

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There are several reasons that could come into play. First even with new clutch components it may be out of adjustment. You want to make sure the clutch pedal is all the way to the top no play. you want the clutch to open as soon as possible.

You said new components both slave and master?

Lastly on the trans, hard shifting in the rev, could be due to a poor 5/R shift hub ring, they get beat up due to poor shimming of the gear stack and i normally replace them if they are too bad. It can also be due to a broken tab from a sync, but that should not be the issue if was a new rebuild.

So the low hanging fruit is the clutch pedal adjustment first. Try doing some shifting with the motor off and see if there is a difference, if so, its an adjustment issue.



#8
n1gzd

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There are several reasons that could come into play. First even with new clutch components it may be out of adjustment. You want to make sure the clutch pedal is all the way to the top no play. you want the clutch to open as soon as possible.

You said new components both slave and master?

Lastly on the trans, hard shifting in the rev, could be due to a poor 5/R shift hub ring, they get beat up due to poor shimming of the gear stack and i normally replace them if they are too bad. It can also be due to a broken tab from a sync, but that should not be the issue if was a new rebuild.

So the low hanging fruit is the clutch pedal adjustment first. Try doing some shifting with the motor off and see if there is a difference, if so, its an adjustment issue.


Yes have replaced slave and master. Builder could not think of reason for the issues. It is easier to shift with engine off. I will investigate adjustment. Thanks. No issues on track.
Rebecca

#9
FTodaro

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Someone please correct me if I’m mistaken but I believe that some rebuilders fudge a little in assembly specs in a way that slightly improves some shifts at the expense of being a bit more difficult to engage 1st (or was it reverse?) while parked.

I would not call it Fudging more like correcting, some of these boxes are not shimmed well. there are  different size shims sold my Mazda that allow you to move the gear stack. Its all legal in any event.


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#10
Dave D.

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Also take into consideration a warped drive disc or pressure plate will give similar symptoms. I once replaced a clutch on a street Miata and it didn't even get off the lift before it came back out as something in either the plate or disc was hanging up ever so slightly to cause a harsh engagement( yes, the flywheel was correctly resurfaced, slave and master replaced and adjusted correctly and it was a good quality brand I had used many times before with no issue and installing another kit cleared up the problem) . 



#11
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Nothing moves in side the transmission when the clutch is depressed, that is a properly working clutch. It should shift the in the same manner as when the engine is off.  If is doesn't, either the clutch disc is dragging, or the pilot bearing is (not as likely).  The ACT clutch discs had an issue with, I believe, the splines; do you have one?  The easy way to tell if this is happening it to raise the rear wheels and place the rear of the car on jackstands.  Start the engine in N, depress the clutch and slowly apply pressure to first gear (don't do this for more than a few seconds as it can damage the brass ring) it the wheels spin, it is a clutch problem.  It will likely shift ok with the engine running while on the stands.  The likely causes of clutch drag are:

 

Not fully depressed; control issue like adjustment or faulty hydraulic parts

Disc binding on the input shaft splines, bad disc or damaged splines

Disc got bent on install

Locating dowel damaged or missing, this will also rip the center out of the disc later

Seized pilot bearing



#12
Steve Scheifler

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I would not call it Fudging more like correcting, some of these boxes are not shimmed well. there are different size shims sold my Mazda that allow you to move the gear stack. Its all legal in any event.


Sorry, I had ZERO intention of suggesting that there was anything shady about it, but “fudge” seems much more accurate that “correct”.
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#13
LarryKing

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In my experience it takes an inordinate amount of bleeding to get the slave cylinder completely void of air, especially if you still have the OEM 'pigtail' and rubber line. I have a much easier time since switching to Advanced Autosports' braided SS clutch line.


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#14
Jim Drago

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Sorry, I had ZERO intention of suggesting that there was anything shady about it, but “fudge” seems much more accurate that “correct”.

I would agree with Frank.. Correcting is probably closer.. the factory boxes really do not shim them all that well at all.  The hard to get into reverse.. may be more of a fudge, but still well within in tolerances  :)


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#15
Steve Scheifler

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Congratulations, somehow you managed to agree with us both! :)
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#16
Jim Drago

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Congratulations, somehow you managed to agree with us both! :)

years of playing politics in the forums :)


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#17
FTodaro

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Sorry, I had ZERO intention of suggesting that there was anything shady about it, but “fudge” seems much more accurate that “correct”.

No need to be sorry, I just wanted others to know that these things are not always precision built.


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