Jump to content

Photo

Speaking of LCAs - suspension paint options

- - - - -

  • Please log in to reply
5 replies to this topic

#1
Brandon

Brandon

    Veteran Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 742 posts
  • Location:North Jersey
  • Region:NNJR
  • Car Year:1996
  • Car Number:48SM

Per Schiefler, using older ones over new saves some weight. However those used ones come with a healthy dose of rust.

 

I've found the chemical rust removers work very well with the WD-40 product seemingly being a better option (faster, but it depletes just as fast) over the EvapORust (found at your local Harbor Fright). Dipping a whole arm only requires a couple of gallons of remover. Which brings me to my question:

 

With all (most?) of the rust will being removed from all surfaces, is there a method folks are using to paint all of the surfaces (inside & outside) of the arm? What about paint type?

 

I was thinking dipping but that obviously would require a lot of paint not to mention it going on very thick for the exterior surfaces.

Dipping (to get the interior), then wiping down/squeegy'ing the exterior and hanging to dry?

Then sanding (green Scotch Brite) the exterior and covering with a compatible primer for the top coats?

The top coat I was thinking of the same appliance enamel I'm using on my interior/cage pieces. As it dries harder than other paints but that may not be what's wanted on areas prone to hitting rocks/gravel.

 

What are others doing short of spending Mazda-level dollars on OEM suspension pieces?


Bona fide - A bonafide Spec Miata driver

#2
Nathan Pring

Nathan Pring

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 34 posts
  • Location:Pittsboro, NC
  • Region:NCR
  • Car Year:1992
  • Car Number:85

I used 2 x coats Eastwood Xtreme Chassis Black Primer and 2 x coats Eastwood Xtreme Chassis Black Satin paint for my suspension components and undercarriage.  Looks pretty damn good for a home job!  Haven't tested the durability out yet since the car is, how you say, not quiet complete....


2019 SeDIV SMSE Champion


#3
Brandon

Brandon

    Veteran Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 742 posts
  • Location:North Jersey
  • Region:NNJR
  • Car Year:1996
  • Car Number:48SM

I used 2 x coats Eastwood Xtreme Chassis Black Primer and 2 x coats Eastwood Xtreme Chassis Black Satin paint for my suspension components and undercarriage.  Looks pretty damn good for a home job!  Haven't tested the durability out yet since the car is, how you say, not quiet complete....

 

Did you do a complete rust removal like I have done or just an exterior scuff/sand/wirebrush before prime & paint?

 

Any pictures you can share/post too? I've seen what $60k builds get you and I'm not looking for that, per se, but something better than eight rusty arms & spindles/uprights is high on my list.

 

Thanks again!


Bona fide - A bonafide Spec Miata driver

#4
Steve Scheifler

Steve Scheifler

    member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,343 posts
  • Location:St. Louis
A rust inhibiting primer might be wise, I’m not really sure. If there are any rusty pits left you might try Rust Reformer which chemically reacts with iron oxide to produce a hard black sealed spot that can be painted. It does seem to work as intended.

I typically just use Rustoleum high heat primer and engine paint, not that much heat is involved but I hope that the stuff claiming 2000f (not continuous) might be a little more durable. It probably isn’t, but everything I’ve used eventually chips to heck on the underside and leading edge.
Bona fide - A bonafide Spec Miata driver

#5
Dave D.

Dave D.

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 151 posts
  • Location:New Jersey
  • Region:NASA Northeast
  • Car Year:2002
  • Car Number:14

To me, control arms are consumables with the subframes receiving more prep as they will hopefully last longer in service. I blast and powdercoat the frames(because a local guy does this so cheaply) and for the arms I just blast and then coat with a quick/cheap primer and a generic single stage black. I get a few seasons out of arms like this before they are blasted from being on track.



#6
Nathan Pring

Nathan Pring

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 34 posts
  • Location:Pittsboro, NC
  • Region:NCR
  • Car Year:1992
  • Car Number:85

Did you do a complete rust removal like I have done or just an exterior scuff/sand/wirebrush before prime & paint?

 

Any pictures you can share/post too? I've seen what $60k builds get you and I'm not looking for that, per se, but something better than eight rusty arms & spindles/uprights is high on my list.

 

Thanks again!

 

Nah I degreased, powerwashed and brushed it up before hand, the paint is apparently pretty good with going over existing paint.  I'll see if I can work out how to post some pics tonight!

 

Cheers


  • av8tor likes this

2019 SeDIV SMSE Champion





0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users