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Which grease to re-grease sway bar bushings?

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#1
Alberto

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What do you guys use and why?

Thanks.


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#2
Dave D.

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El Cheapo wheel bearing grease, serviced after every event. No issues, takes 10 minutes to do. Have tried everything from fancy synthetics, waterproof synthetic, elephant jizz.....

  As long as they move free and smooth,what's the difference?



#3
Tim Wright

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why not anti seize?



#4
TylerQuance

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I like dielectric Grease.

Or whatever I have handy to Dave's point.

#5
infamousjim

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El Cheapo wheel bearing grease, serviced after every event. No issues, takes 10 minutes to do. Have tried everything from fancy synthetics, waterproof synthetic, elephant jizz.....

  As long as they move free and smooth,what's the difference?

 

Where do you get your Elephant Jizz? I heard it's tough to come by unless you're really tall. 


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Jim 

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NASA Northeast

SM #313


#6
Steve Scheifler

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Where do you get your Elephant Jizz? I heard it's tough to come by unless you're really tall.


I figure if he can pull the bellypan on a Miata, drop/clean/lube the mounts and reassemble it, then do the rears, all in 10 minutes, he definitely has hidden talents!
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#7
LarryKing

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I bought a tub of urethane bushing grease 15 years ago, Energy Suspension brand if memory serves. I think I paid less than $15 and it is literally a lifetime supply.


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#8
jedd fahnestock

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Same here, have disposable gloves on hand as well.

 

I bought a tub of urethane bushing grease 15 years ago, Energy Suspension brand if memory serves. I think I paid less than $15 and it is literally a lifetime supply.



#9
Bench Racer

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I kind of figure with both ends of the bar disconnected with the bar end lifted horizontal to a bit above horizontal and letting go of the bar end and the bar end falls downward of their own weight, grease and setup of bar is complete. :yep:


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#10
LarryKing

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Don't forget the flat washer trick.


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#11
TylerQuance

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...which we should work to get in the rulebook while we're all busy reading Mazdaracers and not racing

#12
TylerQuance

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:optimist: 



#13
Bench Racer

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Don't forget the flat washer trick.

 

...which we should work to get in the rulebook while we're all busy reading Mazdaracers and not racing

Spec Miata Rule:

 

d. Anti-roll bar links may be replaced and may be adjustable, but the attachment points must remain
stock. The control arms and specified anti-roll bar may not be modified. One end of the sway
bar(s) may be disconnected as a suspension tuning aid. The bar must remain in place and be solidly
attached to the suspension on one end. A locating ring for the rear anti-roll bar may be added; it
must serve no other purpose. Metal shims of up to 1/8” total thickness may be added between
each anti-roll bar mount shackle and its stock mounting point on the chassis.

 

Then use goose grease to get the bar to fall from it's own lever weight. :rotfl:


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#14
TylerQuance

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OOPS.

 

Don't remember seeing that the last time I read the rules closely. Not sure when it was added. I always just thought we were all cheaters.



#15
Bench Racer

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OOPS.

 

I always just thought we were all cheaters.

  I only know about myself and I ain't talking. :no:


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#16
Nathan Pring

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Don't forget the flat washer trick.

 

The what now?


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#17
trimless

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The what now?

Read the last sentence of the rule noted above.  The sway bar bushings provided in the SM kit are rather tight and can create bind no matter how much special grease is used.

Installing a washer between the sway bar bracket and sub-frame ( behind mounting bolts) reducing the friction and allows for a free moving sway bar. 


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#18
Nathan Pring

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Read the last sentence of the rule noted above.  The sway bar bushings provided in the SM kit are rather tight and can create bind no matter how much special grease is used.

Installing a washer between the sway bar bracket and sub-frame ( behind mounting bolts) reducing the friction and allows for a free moving sway bar. 

 

Awesome, thanks!


2019 SeDIV SMSE Champion





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