bmarshall1, on 07 Dec 2020 - 03:04 AM, said:
I'm looking to get a bit of advice and guidance. I have a spare 99 w/ 70k and a supposed 1 weekend crate motor (w/ very scored bores).
At this time I do not feel I would really be able to utilize the advantage of that last 1 or 2 HP that a Race Motor (RM) will generate and may spend my funds on something more helpful to improving lap times and skill, having said that, I have a few questions.
Horsepower.
What is the average HP of a RM, vs Fresh rebuild vs. Decent Junkyard motor.
How much HP loss does a restrictor cause.
Any idea HP vs Lap time example, 1 hp = .5 seconds per lap minute.
If I were to go to an engine builder, what do I even ask for, this is something I have not done before.
I assume find a reputable shop to bore/hone, then I take it from there? What about working on the head, obviously a valve job is in order, but what else to do,(or not to do).
Would any shop worth their salt know what to do?
I am not asking for trade secrets, but are there any specific things I should be looking at (legal things) during a rebuild, any tips?
I have heard go with over bore both yes and no
Mill the head and block both yes and no
Don't mill the head but do 'deck' the block (and the opposite)
Which heads to use, which to avoid (e.g. 3-2 vs 4-4 etc...
More questions as i think of them.
I'm looking to get a bit of advice and guidance. I have a spare 99 w/ 70k and a supposed 1 weekend crate motor (w/ very scored bores).
First thing to check is head, if bores are scored, it very well may have a warped head and in that case..
At this time I do not feel I would really be able to utilize the advantage of that last 1 or 2 HP that a Race Motor (RM) will generate and may spend my funds on something more helpful to improving lap times and skill, having said that, I have a few questions.
It better be more than 1-2 hp, despite expert opinions of "top Sm drivers'
few of us have seat dynos that accurate.
Horsepower.
What is the average HP of a RM, vs Fresh rebuild vs. Decent Junkyard motor.
Dyno numbers are different every where.
Fresh rebuild depends on your definition? Assuming you do nothing but valve job, hone, bearings and maximize compression and your fresh rebuild see below and just guesstimates as we have not done junk yard or rebuild like this in years..
On my dyno
good race motor on 99 makes 127-130
fresh rebuild 122-123
good used 117-121
other can offer their opinion, that's mine
How much HP loss does a restrictor cause.
about 12 from memory , I have not tested this in many years
Any idea HP vs Lap time example, 1 hp = .5 seconds per lap minute.
pull your plate in practice, thats more than what a race motor will make and give you a better answer.. roughly 1 second depending on track
If I were to go to an engine builder, what do I even ask for, this is something I have not done before.
Tell them you want a race engine for your Miata, despite popular opinions. All the reputable builders build every engine the same, the only difference being the actual head castings.
I assume find a reputable shop to bore/hone, then I take it from there? What about working on the head, obviously a valve job is in order, but what else to do,(or not to do).
The problem is experience and tooling. Yes If given the rules and competent machine shoo can build you an engine that should be "competitive", will it be as good as the three or four builders that build 905 of the Sm engines, likely not. Hard to just nail it on first 25-50 tries, let alone first
Would any shop worth their salt know what to do?
If you print off the rules and hand them to them, yes they should.. but how would you know?
I am not asking for trade secrets, but are there any specific things I should be looking at (legal things) during a rebuild, any tips?
No warpage in head, no scoring of cam journals in head.. no wear in key slot in crank
I have heard go with over bore both yes and no
not neded if block is in good shape
Mill the head and block both yes and no
preference
Don't mill the head but do 'deck' the block (and the opposite)
preference
Which heads to use, which to avoid (e.g. 3-2 vs 4-4 etc...
Definitely avoid the 4-4, as they would be non compliant
More questions as i think of them.
From what I am reading, I have not seen your results.. I don't think a motor is the best use of funds if funds are tight right now. I don't know your budget either. Its a personal decision, but unless you are within 1-1.5 seconds of pole routinely, I don't think the engine is your primary issue. Pull your plate in practice and see where you stack up. Maybe that will help in your decision. I will share this.. I bought a race engine before race three in Sm, with no prior racing experience, just DE
It was 2003 and it was $6000 then. I blew it up in 2 weekends, it was a 94 and the shop I used to install it used the wrong timing mark.. so instead of 15-16 degrees, we were running 25-26
The premiere shop at the time was Sunbelt, they gladly sold me another for $5500
That was 11500 that I never needed to spend and wished I hadn't. The engine was not my main problem at that time.
Jim