2 replies to this topic

[bmarshall1]

Anyone ever try to straighten control arms? I'm not talking obviously or very bent, but maybe one that is slightly tweaked, by 1/8 inch or so, -just enough to keep the bolt from easily sliding in.  I have more than a few of these that I would like to use as spares, I also have a set of Advance Autosports jigs so I can test them.  I also understand metal can fatigue and stretch can weaken them.

 

Before it is said, I know used ones aren't that expensive, but I have also bought more than a few examples that were already bent so it can be a crap-shoot at times.  New control arms can be out of my budget at times.

 

So - for the budget racer that gets out a few times a year, is straightening a very slightly tweaked arm an option?

 

Lastly - anyone ever use aftermarket control arms, it looks like a front set can be had for @ $225.

 

 

[Brandon]

Anyone ever try to straighten control arms? I'm not talking obviously or very bent, but maybe one that is slightly tweaked, by 1/8 inch or so, -just enough to keep the bolt from easily sliding in.  I have more than a few of these that I would like to use as spares, I also have a set of Advance Autosports jigs so I can test them.  I also understand metal can fatigue and stretch can weaken them.

 

Before it is said, I know used ones aren't that expensive, but I have also bought more than a few examples that were already bent so it can be a crap-shoot at times.  New control arms can be out of my budget at times.

 

So - for the budget racer that gets out a few times a year, is straightening a very slightly tweaked arm an option?

 

Lastly - anyone ever use aftermarket control arms, it looks like a front set can be had for @ $225.

 

Repairing bent arms is a poor choice. As you've noted, metal fatigue becomes a concern and if it bent there the first time, what's to say it won't now be easier to bend there again?

Playing the slots with used pieces is always a gamble, but since you do have the jigs, bring them with you when you go to pick up any used one. I've done that with my set and passed on all but one LCA due to no-go on bolt alignments.

 

The catch with new ones from Mazda is they don't come with bushings. They're pretty but you have to do the bushing dance to use them. Which is kind of a pain after spending $400 for a pair.

 

Regarding aftermarket ones, for my friend's AER build we bought two sets of "full front lower assemblies" from 1AAuto.com. They were priced at like $150/pair and included arm, bushings, end links, and lower ball joints. Putting them through the jigs revealed zero issues with the arm bolt holes & ball joint location. But checking the ball joint install revealed some minor (like <1/8") variation in where the LBJ vertical bolt weld-on washer was located. AKA - a misalignment with the spot welding jig during manufacturing. Some noting with a marker where the grinding needed to happen on that weld-on washer and the BJ installs fine. We did not use the joints or end links.

 

We did swap-in the Mazdacomp bushings so we can't comment on whether the durometer of the included ones was better/worse than stock (new or aged).

 

HTH!

Brandon

[bmarshall1]

Brandon, yes it helps.  This was more of a question to see if someone has successfully done it.  Like you say, not sure if it would be trustworthy enough.

 

I did not get the jigs until after several bad ones were purchased  .

 

I also thought about going the aftermarket like you did, but once again to your experience, what is the quality of aftermarket, likely Chinese parts?