6 replies to this topic

[Sphinx]

I'm having some trouble with the hood release mechanism sticking.  So, ditching them for some aero catch pins to avoid any problems.

 

Anything I should be aware of before I cut these holes in my hood?  Is there a spot on the NB that's the better than another for installation?  I was thinking of using the stock hole that is inbound of the factory prop rod for one of the holes (and its mirror image on the opposite side of the car.

[Dave D.]

I would think fixing the release to operate properly would be way less work fitting  latches.

[Sphinx]

I would think fixing the release to operate properly would be way less work fitting  latches.

 

Ideally, yes. However, I've fixed it multiple times. The straw that broke the camels back is that my trackside support thought the hood was closed only for it to flop on the pace lap.  And earlier this week, it wouldn't pop up (but the latch released), which I learned a couple of years ago is bad in the event of a fire. So, the aero catch should be 100% reliable and visual.

[Ron Alan]

I have never had a stock hood latch fail. Worst case it pops to the safety catch and stops there. Stock latch has some adjustability as does the hood(rubber stops, hinges and the occasional hood metal bend) all which may need adjustment after an incident/repair. Typically the reason a hood wont release is because it is forced into the latch...to much tension...again, ADJUSTED properly nothing needs to be forced and it will close and open every time!

 

I have had hood pins fail 3 times(always human error!)...changing hood and windshield 3 times on different cars sucked!!! Never again!  Just my opinion after 12 years. Good luck

[Alberto]

https://flyinmiata.c..._hood_pins.pdf 

[Sphinx]

https://flyinmiata.c..._hood_pins.pdf 

 

Broken link, but I did find this one.  https://nasaspeed.ne..., grinding, etc.

 

 

I have never had a stock hood latch fail. Worst case it pops to the safety catch and stops there. Stock latch has some adjustability as does the hood(rubber stops, hinges and the occasional hood metal bend) all which may need adjustment after an incident/repair. Typically the reason a hood wont release is because it is forced into the latch...to much tension...again, ADJUSTED properly nothing needs to be forced and it will close and open every time!

 

I have had hood pins fail 3 times(always human error!)...changing hood and windshield 3 times on different cars sucked!!! Never again!  Just my opinion after 12 years. Good luck

 

Any suggestions on adjustments that can be made at the mechanism?  As I said, it some times releases the primary release but the physical hood won't pop up, and will require finding something to wedge in there to lift it - finger strength alone doesn't work, at least not my weak fingers.

[Ron Alan]

Usually the metal piece on the hood is not centered over the latch when you gentle set it down...look closely which way it needs to move to drop/be pushed straight down. The holes on the latch which the bolts go thru are larger than necessary to allow the latch a small amount of adjustment right/left and up/down...but not much. The hood hinges are the same in that you can loosen the nuts and the hood can move forward/back and side/side. But obviously the minute you move the hood to adjust the latch...you change the reveal on your hood gaps...both to fenders and bumper. Its all a compromise! Remember fenders and bumpers can be adjusted as well as the rubber stops that the hood lands on.  Lastly...look at the metal loop on the hood(maybe 1st!)and see if it is bent(not perpendicular to the hood)...if it is and bending it straight is the direction you need to go to center over latch, you're golden. But if it is straight...a SMALL bend to the right or left may also be an option.