3 replies to this topic

[KyleLoustaunau]

I've been looking for rules and tolerances for a 1.6. I have cruised the forums and I can't find much. For instance how does a pro motor builder know what he can and can't do?
Thanks for your help.

[dmathias]

Consult the factory shop manual.

For instance how does a pro motor builder know what he can and can't do?

That's what's known as 'proprietary information', aka, 'intellectual property'.

[Mike Collins]

Read the GCR. The engine rules are pretty specific for SM.

[Bruce Wilson]

The perennial question gets another round. In the NW where the 1.6 thrives and several new cars get built each year, there has been an interesting turn in build vs. buy. It wasn't long after the inception of the class that pro motors became the standard that all the front runners could not afford to be without. Recently there a are a select few that have built National competitive (122hp-ish) engines. Does that mean that anyone can do it? Absolutely not! Pro motor builders provide very good value for the money they charge. The amount of time and work that goes into building a top motor should not be underestimated, and you need to know the "important things" that folks won't share because it's taken us many years to learn them.

This is a fact of racing in a competitive class that will not likely change anytime soon. Yes, there is the sealed engine deal that 1) doesn't work in SM and 2) cost about the same be competitive in Spec Racer Ford where it works best. I know of a sealed Spec Racer Ford that makes 5hp more than anything else out there -- Saw it with my own eyes on a local dyno. You will never see a top legal 1.6 motor that varies by more than 3hp unless something is wrong. But that's a different argument for a different post!!!

Bottom line is you can spend hundreds of hours and a few thousand dollars on the dyno swapping out parts and rebuilding, or you can make friends with the few folks that know how to build a motor or you can pay for a good pro motor, new or used. But be careful with used, as there a LOT of used motors that don't comply to the latest ruleset!

I bought my first pro motor about 6 or so years ago and spent $7k. It was not anything special, but it did allow me to get close to the leaders. The rules changed the year after and it cost me about $4k to get it legal again with a new block. The newly rebuilt motor just happened to be one of the best ever built by that particular builder. I was very lucky that the motor continued to make good power for the next 3 or so years. Over the last winter I decided to rebuild myself, paying very close attention to CR and making sure I was in compliance with the latest rules, i.e. head thickness, plunge cut, etc. The resuts are good so far with a second place at the Thunderhill national and a win at home.

It is important to note that because of competition, the cost of a "good" pro motor has gone down dramatically in the past few years. BUT, remember my number one rule for working with a pro builder if you want to make the most power potential. Open your checkbook and tell them you will pay whatever it takes. AND be prepared to offer help, i.e. flow multiple heads, throttle bodies, etc. The more groundwork you do in the beginning and the more tuning you do after you get your motor, the better the results will be.

Good luck, the journey is half the fun!!!

-bw

PS, BTW, I'm the cheapest bastard I know, so don't get me wrong. I spend the money where I get value. Ask any of my friends