27 replies to this topic

[glauser]

I've been thinking about building a track car for quite some time and have really only just looked into Spec Miata, although I've known about it for quite some time. I have a couple of absolute newb questions that I'm sure will seem stupid to most.

- First, are Spec Miata cars street legal (or can they be)?
- Is there any 'required reading' that I should look into before I go out, buy a car and start building?
- How does one begin the process to getting a racing license? I have no track experience but quite a lot of autocross experience.
- Can a member of one region compete in events held in other regions?
- Can one car be piloted by multiple drivers (not in the same race, obviously, but over the course of a weekend -- or same car, different drivers in different regions)

I am hoping to build a car over the winter and be ready to go for next year. What are some things you wish you'd known before you got involved?

Thanks

[Greg Kimble]

Let me see if I can help with your questions:

I believe that a SM could be driven on the street with a tire change, but with a roll cage, racing exhaust and suspension, I think it would get old quick (maybe I am just getting old)

Read the rules, you can get both the SCCA rules and NASA rules online. Also read Dave Wheeler's Spec Miata Constructors Manual, in addition read as much as you can here on this site and read as much as possible on the old Specmiata.com website.

You can get the specifics on the license requirements off of the SCCA and NASA website, but with respect to SCCA, you start with a membership, get a physical (forms on the website), get a novice permit, complete two driving schools and two events within two years and you will have a regional license.

You can race in any region you choose outside of your region, your only restiction would be on the level of license you hold, for example if you hold a regional license, you cannot compete in National events regardless of region.

Yes you can have multiple drivers for the same car over the course of the weekend

Finally, I strongly recommend attending events in your area and getting to know the drivers, they will be happy to discuss the class and the cars with you.

Good luck to you

Greg

[glauser]

Thanks for the reply. The reason I ask about street legality is that I'd rather drive to the circuit than trailer the car. I just don't have a vehicle that can tow 2,000+ pounds and don't want to buy a truck for just that purpose.

[dstevens]

Most of the noob starters, FAQs, etc haven't been migrated over from the old site. Plenty of info there.

A bit about driving to the track vs. trailering...

http://forum.specmia...=3;t=000193;p=0

Car costs and builds from a few years back...

http://forum.specmia...=3;t=000001;p=0

Over here Tom Hampton just finished a build and it's documented at http://tomhampton.info . Search around, there are others as well.

Read, read, read. The rules, Wheeler's book, this site and the old site. Most all of it has been covered in the last 10 years or so.

[Tom Hampton]

I wouldn't call it finished. But, it is on the track! Just got back from eagles canyon, today. Fun track.

Anywho, dave beats me to referencing people to my blog most of the time, it seems.

I drive to the track for hpde, i will trailer it for w2w. But, i have to stop working in the car at some point to fix the tow vehicle.

Evening in hpde events people call for a tow. A kid just today did it because his crank angle sensor failed (2001). 50 miles of towing ain't cheap.

Heck, i had a brake issue that would have been difficult if I didn't have spare pads and rotors. But, that's another thread.

Over the winter is ambitious. I don't nnow how mechanically inclined you are. I started last October. I just finished my second hpde day in the car. Granted, i have a life outside of work and cars (or pretend i do, anyway). I could have worked longer and more.

Street legal. Depends on where you live. In Texas, you need all lights, ebrake, horn, seat belts, mirrors, and emissions (in certain counties). A race harness isn't dot, but I haven't heard anyone have a problem. It's the ebrake, horn, and catalytic converter.

The ebrake is another story from today. Stupid thing!

Get an iracing account. It makes a huge difference in your sa, car control, and the visual skills of driving on a track. Drive as many tracks as you can. Join the iracing challenge here. Where else will you get to drive with national level drivers and not get punted? :-P

[Keith Andrews]

You are in a great part of the country for SM. SCCA and NASA are very active in the Southeast. NASA has instructors and as you progress they have solo run groups that allow passing anywhere. Transition to Comp school and you are off and running.

NASA SCCA

People do share cars. There is a series here in the SE called the Carolina Cup that runs 45 minute races with a mandatory 2 minute pit stop. Many of the cars have two drivers splitting time in one car. Any Enduro also has multiple drivers for one car.

[glauser]

Tom,
Thanks for the insight. I think you guys are right as far as trailering the car. As the minimum I'd be traveling to a track is about 120 miles, having a catastrophic event at the track would probably put me at a huge risk financially, trailering - even just renting a trailer - would be the best idea.
As far as the winter being ambitious. I would say I am moderately mechanically inclined. I plan to get some professional help for things that I can't do, or can't do quickly, in my garage to help speed up the process.
I've started reading your build blog and it's quite good! I'll definitely finish reading the whole thing.
I've found a donor car pretty much locally but it has a salvage title. What are the general feelings about salvage titles for SM cars? What are the main things I should check out before buying the car? Or should I just stay as far away from salvage titled cars as I can?

[Tom Hampton]

Depends on why its in salvage. Everything except the body can be replaced...everything just costs money. But, if its been wrecked and put in salvage, it may be bent. I'm sure it could be done, but why put yourself in the position for "step 1: straighten frame."? So, you really want a straight tub to start with. I'd be wary of a salvage car. There are lots of options...don't think its necessary to resort to salvage, unless its a great deal, and straight.

There were many discussions on the old site (www.specmiata.com) regarding minimum requirements for a donor. Here's the list of things that (I think, from memory) matter, in no particular order:

Control Arms
Sub frames
Hubs/wheel bearings (runout?, strange noises?, smooth rotation?)
Tranny (crunchy synchros?)
Clutch (slippage)
Diff (LSD or open?)
Engine (mileage? smoke from tailpipe? idle quality? plug quality?)
Ball joints/(inner/outer) Tie rod ends
Brakes (calipers and master cylinder)

As I said above, ALL of these things *CAN* be replaced. And most (if not all), eventually WILL be. The question you have to decide on, is how many do you want to HAVE to do before you get on the track. Any how much each one is worth when discussing purchase price (money and time).

What type are you looking at? 1.6, 1.8, 99+? If you are looking to build, and spend the least overall...a 99+ will probably be cheapest and easiest overall. Less wear and tear on stock parts, less development items to purchase aftermarket...more predictable HP due to the plate requirements.

[Tom Hampton]

PS: don't confuse me with an EXPERT.

I'm only 1 year into this hobby, and haven't even finished my first build! Let alone gained my racing license, or gone racin' yet. That doesn't stop me from having opinions, but take anything I say with that in mind.

[CruzanTom]

I started racing this year with a rented car (OPM - Great guys!) and I have had on track issues (of my own making) with the following:

Control Arms
Sub frames
Hubs/wheel bearings (runout?, strange noises?, smooth rotation?)
Ball joints/(inner/outer) Tie rod ends

plus assorted door panels, fenders and bumpers.

These are normal learning events. If you trailer, be prepared to fix these things before driving home. If you cannot fix these things on track, invest in a trailer and tow. A Miata is light and does not require a big tow vehicle but once you start, you will probably succumb to the "bigger is better" trailer and tow vehicle philosophy.

[dstevens]

Towing is one of the things where bigger is better.

[JayF]

Towing is one of the things where bigger is better.

Aint that the truth. Just picked up a miata to daily drive and looking to upgrade to an f350 dually.

[Roy Dietsch]

I'd vote for getting a built car with spares and spend the winter cleaning and getting it ready. I built two from scratch in 2005 then 2006 on a college budget and both times we had trouble making the first race and spent 3-5 times more time than we thought we would, not to mention more money. I wouldn't do it again. At the time it was hard to find a straight SM under 10K, Now I've seen them go for as little as $5,500. While your at it you can likely get a truck and trailer from someone getting out of the sport. It seems the economy hit racers the hardest and there are a lot of good deals out there.

Meanwhile the used car market shot up and doners are $1-2K more than they were in the past...

In 2005 my Spec was my daily driver and it's not too bad if you're young. I lived in the city and had no choice. The roads were hell on the suspension and I got pulled over A LOT! I figured if I balled it up I could just get a tow from a friendly racer and use the bus system till I fixed it, although it never came to that. AAA Gold is WELL WORTH IT if you are going to do this. I also got a membership as a holiday gift.

Don't cheap out on the doner, money is well spent there. You can sell a good number of items to recoup your cost and a solid motor is WELL worth it.

Good Luck!

Roy (Lucky Kid)

[dstevens]

Don't cheap out on the doner, money is well spent there. You can sell a good number of items to recoup your cost and a solid motor is WELL worth it.

Guilty as charged...

I did get a solid, newer drive train but my cost is in time and not so much dollars, as I would have likely replace most of those parts anyway. I've got an easy 40 hours in just de-rusting the donor. If you get a hammered donor like I did you won't be able to sell most of the stuff that comes out as it's pretty well trashed. I saved money on the front end but it cost time (and money) on the back end.

[Tom Hampton]

Same story here. $1200 out the door. Leaves were free. Nice touch!

Had an oily clutch, bad calipers, and master cylinders. I'm guessing the u joints are going now.

As with dave, I chose this path on purpose knowing it would be time and money. It's all about goals and expectations. It won't be easy or cheap. It will be twice as much work and money as you think. I expected that to be the case. And I'm happy where things stand.

[glauser]

I'd vote for getting a built car with spares and spend the winter cleaning and getting it ready. I built two from scratch in 2005 then 2006 on a college budget and both times we had trouble making the first race and spent 3-5 times more time than we thought we would, not to mention more money. I wouldn't do it again. At the time it was hard to find a straight SM under 10K, Now I've seen them go for as little as $5,500. While your at it you can likely get a truck and trailer from someone getting out of the sport. It seems the economy hit racers the hardest and there are a lot of good deals out there.

Buying a built car isn't really in the cards for me. Part of the reason I want to buy a 1.6 is to get a solid donor car for as low cost as possible and then build the car in stages over the next 9-10 months or so. I just don't have the funding to build a car all at once or drop $10,000 in one shot on a built car. I'm also on a college budget. I'm not 100% concerned with making the first race next season (or even the first couple) if I don't have the car ready. I'll still have to work my way through the HPDE events to get my provisional license anyway.

I don't expect it to be easy or cheap, but it's much more manageable if I can spread the spend out over time.

Consensus seems to be to not skimp on the donor though, so I'll take that to hear in my search. In your opinions what is a decent ballpark range to look for in a 1.6L donor car with a straight frame and solid engine?

[Keith Andrews]

You may want to call these guys. Lots of Miata experience and may be able to help you find a car.

[dmathias]

Step 1. Study hard, finish school
Step 2. Start career
Step 3. Squander salary on ridiculously expensive hobby.

Signed, Dad

[glauser]

Step 1. Study hard, finish school
Step 2. Start career
Step 3. Squander salary on ridiculously expensive hobby.

Signed, Dad

Sound advice. While I am a full-time college student, I'm 27 and am 'back in school', earn a decent income while studying and do have discretionary income that I can dedicate to the ridiculously expensive hobby (all while keeping it as un-ridiculous as possible).

Although my Dad would probably prefer I follow your advice

[Kyle Burkhardt]

Step 1. Study hard, finish school
Step 2. Start career
Step 3. Squander salary on ridiculously expensive hobby.

Signed, Dad

Step 2.5 Marry girl with great IP.
Step 4. Make sure children earn scholarships to college.