21 replies to this topic

[Todd Tagget]

Putting in a new diff today and have to remove and put in new half shafts etc.... anyone know what size the nut is on the bearing hub ?
I know it's different from NA and NB..

[svvs]

I forget if it's 1 1/8 or 1 1/4. I think those are the sizes if I remember correctly. I forget which one is the NA and which one is the NB though.

[Todd Tagget]

not Metric ???

[dstevens]

I have a 90 and the hub nuts use a 28mm socket. I don't know if the OEM and aftermarket use the same size wrench. I've found some of the OEM fasteners of the same size use a smaller wrench than the Grattan fasteners I buy in bulk. For the hub nuts I used NAPA.

It's metric but some SAE wrench sizes fit metric or are within a mm or so, 28mm is about 1 1/8". The nut size and the wrench size are not the same thing. The nut is speced by the size and pitch of the fastener to which it is applied.

[Jim Boemler]

My recollection is 27 mm. The nuts aren't made with truly straight sides, so several sizes may fit.

[Glenn]

31mm and 29mm IIRC

[dstevens]

Mine are definitely 28mm. I put a wrench on it before I posted. A 27mm was too small and while a 30mm 29mm worked, the smallest that would fit is a 28mm. What the Clown was saying about the taper is what is happening with mine. I wouldn't be surprised if what I took off were aftermarket as the car had so much salvage yard paint pen on it it could have been the color of the under carriage. I doubt the guy that put it back together after he put another engine and rear end in used dealer parts.

No tool box is complete without a good set of impact sockets. I picked up a new set of the Pittsburgh deep impacts from HF in SAE a couple months back to work on circle track cars. I already had Snap On 1/2" and 3/8" drive metric impacts but for the money the new HFs are a good deal though the metric set doesn't have a 28mm or a 29mm. Those two sizes aren't in many sets.

[Tom Hampton]

Those nuts can be a mother to get off the first time. I broke 4 1/2" breaker bars getting them off. Thank goodness for lifetime warranty.

[trekkor]

I broke a couple of breaker bars, too.

I ended up welding the socket onto the end of a three foot long section of steel pipe.


KT

[Jim Boemler]

I use a 1" drive torque wrench, plenty long to bust them loose as well. Not expensive at HF, and you should have one to put the nuts back on anyway.

[Tom Hampton]

Yeah, i considered something that size. In the end it took all my body weight on a 3' cheater bar over the breaker and heat to get the original nuts loose. I'm pretty sure that would have broken or decalibrated a torque wrench.

[fotostars]

I crack those with my Ryobi cordless impact gun
Used a 29mm socket on my '97

[dstevens]

Those nuts can be a mother to get off the first time. I broke 4 1/2" breaker bars getting them off. Thank goodness for lifetime warranty.

You need one of these... 625 ft/lbs breaking torque

http://www.northernt...t_370269_370269

Or if you don't have air... 620 ft/lbs breaking (the Li-ion version is 700 ft/lbs breaking)

http://buy1.snapon.c...ore&dir=catalog

I haven't run across anything the IR or Snap On won't break loose. Rusted head bolts from blocks that were water logged in someone's backyard for a couple years. Trans bolts, seized rear end bolts. The battery powered tool is great at the salvage yards or at the track.

[DES4]

I use a 1" drive torque wrench, plenty long to bust them loose as well. Not expensive at HF, and you should have one to put the nuts back on anyway.

As Tom Hampton pointed out, it's not good practice to use a torque wrench for breaking nuts loose; you stand a very good chance of knocking its calibration out. The reason for the reversible ratcheting head is the occasions where you might need to torque a left-hand threaded nut, not for use as a loosening tool.

[Jim Boemler]

Mine (HF) don't even click when used in "reverse" -- they're breaker-bar solid. Try yours and report back.

[Glenn]

Jack handles come off for more than 1 reason Just sayin.......

[FTodaro]

Jack handles come off for more than 1 reason Just sayin.......

This is a little off topic.

Glen your post referencing "jack Handles" reminded me of something.

Did you know that in certain parts of the country, that men use "Axe Handles" as a measurement of a woman's buttocks. So if it were really big that would be two axe handles.

[Glenn]

This is a little off topic.

Glen your post referencing "jack Handles" reminded me of something.

Did you know that in certain parts of the country, that men use "Axe Handles" as a measurement of a woman's buttocks. So if it were really big that would be two axe handles.

Now THATS a HIJACK!

[Race Engineering]

LOL

[dstevens]

Mine (HF) don't even click when used in "reverse" -- they're breaker-bar solid. Try yours and report back.

I quit using HF torque wrenches a couple years ago. I'd been using them for over a decade but stopped after two separate issues with two wrenches that resulted in an EZ Out for one and a Heli Coil in a block for the other, Put them on a wrench calibrator and the difference is apparent though depending on the app it could not be an issue. On the older versions if you didn't spool them back out to zero they would become uncalibrated. Many tool geeks don't use their ratchets as breakers. I'm all about right tool for right job but I've used a screwdriver as a chisel, hammer as a wrench, etc. Sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do.