61 replies to this topic

[Johnny D]

Available now: The only approved SCCA and NASA subframe brace for your NA/NB SpecMiata.

 

 

The Mazda Motorsports subframe braces are made from 12 gauge laser cut steel and are designed to be welded into place to help alleviate stress cracking at the factory weld on the subframe caused in the harsh racing environment.

 

The braces weld into place in between the lower control arm mount and the main body of the subframe and have a large dimple die hole in the center of them to help give them strength and also serve as an inspection hole for tech to be able to see the original OEM subframe welds.

 

Price: $17.70 is for quantity two (2) subframe braces to brace one (1) front NA or NB subframe.

 

Part #: 0000-04-5989

 

Order online or call 800.435.2508.

[Jim Venable]

Not having a chassis to view at the moment nor familiar with the brace, can these be welded in (ECU disconnected) with the subframe installed?

 

Appreciated,

Jim Venable

[Bench Racer]

I did view a photo. IIRC there are two braces welded in with everything fully assembled. One for each side of sub-frame where front of control arm attaches to sub-frame. Nothing added where the rear of the control arm attaches.

[Jim Venable]

Thank you Mr. BR. 

 

Jim V.

[Jeff Wasilko]

Any photos of them installed?

[Bi11]

Im lost, please post pic

[FTodaro]

I am not an expert at this but do you not risk weakening the metal when you weld on it again? Who did the field testing?

[Tom Sager]

It's great that this kit has been approved especially for the NB cars.  Has anyone in an NA car had issues with a front subframe cracking?  I can't recall anyone with an NA mentioning this issue and I've had no problem with my '95. 

[davew]

I worked with the SMAC, SCCA and Mazda on this design. I am NOT the company making this item.

 

Yes it can be welded without removing the subframe from the car. Use normal welding precautions. To do in the car, you need the ability (talent) to weld overhead

 

This failure seems to be most often seen at Sebring and Road America. I have seen NA and NB break. It causes massive toe out when you hit the brakes. Usually resulting in contact with a heavy, non-movable object. Thus severe damage to the car. I think the NB's appear to be more prone to this because there are more NB's being raced at the front of the pack. Where more rumble-strip racing happens.

 

Just my opinion

Dave

[ChrisA]

I'm not clear on where this is welded in, but I assume the lower control arm needs to be removed to do the job. Correct?

Any pictures of this installed?

[lillyweld]

Frank,

 

Installing this should not weaken the metal especially if done correctly. Using a cold process like GMAW-S (the MIG process you use in your shop) is really perfect. (TIG, frankly, is a little over overkill, especially from a time/expense perspective.) Make sure you clean all faying (welded) and surrounding surfaces thoroughly, including the brand new braces. (While absolute cleanliness is not generally mandatory when MIG welding mild steel, fluxless process like MIG and TIG are especially susceptible to contamination. Any little bit of contamination will weaken the weld, so why risk it?) While 12 gauge is plenty thick to carry a GMAW-S bead, I suspect the main body of the subframe may not be that beefy especially at turns, bends, etc. Check the subframe thickness after cleaning, and set your machine to the thinnest metal surface. (Using .035 wire, you should set wire speed somewhere in the neighborhood of 240 to 260 inches per minute with voltage set somewhere around 17 to 19 volts with 75/25 cover gas.) Again, cleanliness is important because the smallest amount of contamination may cause you to lose control of your bead and burn through in the blink of an eye. The rest is easy. I would fill all faces of the fillet weld, re-brush and paint.

 

This is something that I should be able to do at the track for folks that do not feel comfortable doing it themselves, and I'd probably only charge $25 if you bring your own braces.

[davew]

This does NOT require removing the control arm and does not effect the allignment.

[FTodaro]

Frank,

 

This is something that I should be able to do at the track for folks that do not feel comfortable doing it themselves, and I'd probably only charge $25 if you bring your own braces.

Now that sounds like a good deal, IMO.

 

Does that mean your going to be running that Big Ass generator?

[Bench Racer]

Best front sub-frame picture I could find.

Look drivers side between the little tab with screw and lower control arm mount bracket location/cam bolt hole. The "A" shape where you see table. That's where the "U"  shaped Mazda Motorsports brace will be welded to the sub-frame and the lower control arm bracket. Enlarge the picture for ease of viewing.

 

https://www.ebay.com...app=true&chn=ps

[Jim Drago]

Available now: The only approved SCCA and NASA subframe brace for your NA/NB SpecMiata.

 

 

Smac

Although I didnt think it was needed.. this is a very inexpensive fix and I especially like the fact of the three holes in the Mazda logo so it can't be knocked off or duplicated very easily and thus keeping the honest people honest and not moving the pick up point. Whoever came up with that gets a big    Very nice!  Job well done!

Jim

[Sean - MiataCage]

Here are a few pictures that may help with where they go on the car.  These images are from the first couple prototypes that were made, so they don't have the Mazda logo and tech inspection holes.

 

A special thank you to Ralph Provitz who donated his time to design the bracket and put it into a CAD file so that prototypes could be made for review.  Once they were test fit and approved Ralph was kind enough to donate the drawings to Mazda so they could own and control the manufacturing process to bring them to the racer as cheap as possible. 

 

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[Ron Alan]

Ahhh...now I see! At the 25 HR event this year in practice we had my 99 catch the edge of the track(perfectly 90 degress at 50+mph)in an off track moment. The bottom weld between the LCA mount and the subframe was shoved in 3/8" and above the mount the stitch weld on the subframe(2 pieces of metal welded together to create the subframe)was ripped apart. The tire unbeaded and the wheel was bent to shit but the HUB survived the impact! 

[Richard Astacio]

Whats the purpose of the round hole in the middle?

[Chris Semanciw]

Whats the purpose of the round hole in the middle?

 

The dimpled hole stiffens the plate and allows for inspection of the factory weld behind the brace.

 

Chris

[38bfast]

Whats the purpose of the round hole in the middle?

Rich it servers 2 purposes. First the dimple die hole makes the part much stronger and second it allows tech to inspect the original weld under the bracket to ensure no foul play has happened.