0
You gotta pay to play...
Posted by
davecarama
,
03-07-2011
·
1,825 views
OK, I am down to 10 days now. I feel pretty good about the car at this point. It fires right up, little to no lifter ticking as it warms up. I think I am going to go with the "add" method for the oil for the school. I will do the oil adding and bleed the brakes this upcoming weekend.
So what do I have into this racing thing at this point?
CAR
$2500 for the car
$700 for the hard top
$300 for the hard dog (-250 for selling the hard dog)
$3000 for the roll cage
$500 for the seat install (old seat not FIA)
$660 for the seat install (new seat FIA)
$1300 for the suspension kit
$30 for the OEM crank pulley
$60 for the steering wheel hub
$150 for the FIA 6pt harnesses
$250 for the Mazdaspeed exhaust
$50 for the test pipe
$400 for the wheels
$520 for the SM6 Hoosiers
$60 for the braided clutch hose (this was... well... a necessary replacement)
$130 Radiator
$300 Timing Belt, seals, water pump
$25 bumper paint
$30 tow hooks
$40 fire extinguisher
$45 SFI Roll Bar Padding
$400 transponder
$100 Rotors
$300 Pads (Hawk Blue)
$100 Battery
$11,950.00
DRIVER
$250 for the helmet (Bell Sport. Do not buy this helmet)
$400 for the FIA2000 SFI 3.2A/5 suit
$130 for the gloves
$140 for the shoes
$50 for the balaclava
$20 for the socks
$600 HANS
$1,590.00
THE SCHOOL
$550 The WDCR Spring Double Comp School
$110 Novice Permit
$95 club dues
$755.00
$14,295 TOTAL
I think anyone can pick up a SM that is already built for $6,500.00. it might not be a champion car, but I highly doubt mine will ever be a champion car (it won't in it's current state, that's for sure). So back to the age old battle, "Buy Or Build?" Easy, the answer is, if you have the money to spend in one lump sum, buy in full. If you are going to do the build over multiple years, build (or better yet, buy in full and build for the front).
I have been lucky enough to instruct for the past MANY years. So I have spent little to nothing on track time, only dumping my money into repairs/upkeep to date. This paying to play concept is new to me. I have relied heavily on my friends to help support me along the way, wether it it was friends and family giving me wonderful automotive gifts (did I say my birthday is March 12), or friends lending a hand wrenching on the car (thanks King Rat!), or my wife being so understanding about me wasting so much money on a hobby.
Now, all that is left is for me to do the school! I am considering instructing the SCCA PDX this weekend. They requested more instructors, and it would be nice to shake the car down a little before the school... Decisions Decisions...
- Bleed brakes (Saturday)
- Change or add oil and maybe change filter (Saturday maybe?)
- Check timing and set to 14 degrees btdc (Sunday Maybe?)
- Get (and pass) my physical (March 11)
- Pay for (and receive) my $110 Novice permit (March 11 after the physical)
- Buy and install the fuel test port (not required for school, but I want it for the log book)
So what do I have into this racing thing at this point?
CAR
$2500 for the car
$700 for the hard top
$300 for the hard dog (-250 for selling the hard dog)
$3000 for the roll cage
$500 for the seat install (old seat not FIA)
$660 for the seat install (new seat FIA)
$1300 for the suspension kit
$30 for the OEM crank pulley
$60 for the steering wheel hub
$150 for the FIA 6pt harnesses
$250 for the Mazdaspeed exhaust
$50 for the test pipe
$400 for the wheels
$520 for the SM6 Hoosiers
$60 for the braided clutch hose (this was... well... a necessary replacement)
$130 Radiator
$300 Timing Belt, seals, water pump
$25 bumper paint
$30 tow hooks
$40 fire extinguisher
$45 SFI Roll Bar Padding
$400 transponder
$100 Rotors
$300 Pads (Hawk Blue)
$100 Battery
$11,950.00
DRIVER
$250 for the helmet (Bell Sport. Do not buy this helmet)
$400 for the FIA2000 SFI 3.2A/5 suit
$130 for the gloves
$140 for the shoes
$50 for the balaclava
$20 for the socks
$600 HANS
$1,590.00
THE SCHOOL
$550 The WDCR Spring Double Comp School
$110 Novice Permit
$95 club dues
$755.00
$14,295 TOTAL
I think anyone can pick up a SM that is already built for $6,500.00. it might not be a champion car, but I highly doubt mine will ever be a champion car (it won't in it's current state, that's for sure). So back to the age old battle, "Buy Or Build?" Easy, the answer is, if you have the money to spend in one lump sum, buy in full. If you are going to do the build over multiple years, build (or better yet, buy in full and build for the front).
I have been lucky enough to instruct for the past MANY years. So I have spent little to nothing on track time, only dumping my money into repairs/upkeep to date. This paying to play concept is new to me. I have relied heavily on my friends to help support me along the way, wether it it was friends and family giving me wonderful automotive gifts (did I say my birthday is March 12), or friends lending a hand wrenching on the car (thanks King Rat!), or my wife being so understanding about me wasting so much money on a hobby.
Now, all that is left is for me to do the school! I am considering instructing the SCCA PDX this weekend. They requested more instructors, and it would be nice to shake the car down a little before the school... Decisions Decisions...