16 replies to this topic

[Jonathan Ng]

Hi all, just picked up my SM this weekend and ran it on the track for the first time! I have an IOPort camera mount and a Sony CX160 that to sync up with my Traqmate data. I'm getting a TON of vibrations in the video that weren't present on my previous car. I'm wondering if maybe my settings are incorrect?

[Jim Boemler]

The IOPort mount is prone to vibration due to the articulated arm. It feels solid, but it's really not. The key to good video is a truly solid mount -- usually something custom, mounting very tightly to the cage, without any arms. I've found it works best with image stabilization OFF, but some have had it work OK.

[Jonathan Ng]

The IOPort mount is prone to vibration due to the articulated arm. It feels solid, but it's really not. The key to good video is a truly solid mount -- usually something custom, mounting very tightly to the cage, without any arms. I've found it works best with image stabilization OFF, but some have had it work OK.

Hmm, I'll try with stabilization off. I wonder, if maybe I reduce the extension of the arms if the video quality will improve? I checked my settings and I am running with stabilization ON for this vid:

[Jim Boemler]

If I recall, the arms are really the same length regardless; it's just a matter of the angles. I doubt an adjustment would help much, but worth a try. Looks like the stabilization may be making the vibration look worse than it is -- definitely worth trying again with it off, but replacing the mount is really the key to it.

[Little Bill]

I have had good success by using a a zip tie to pre-load the mount with good results.

[svvs]

I have an IO mount I use with a go-pro and have no vibration issues. Maybe because the camera is so light?

-Vick

[Jonathan Ng]

If I recall, the arms are really the same length regardless; it's just a matter of the angles. I doubt an adjustment would help much, but worth a try. Looks like the stabilization may be making the vibration look worse than it is -- definitely worth trying again with it off, but replacing the mount is really the key to it.

Ah, I meant to have the angle of the arms as close to 180 as possible. I was thinking maybe having the arms extended is causing more vibration since it's out further, but that's just speculation on my part.

I have had good success by using a a zip tie to pre-load the mount with good results.

I will try this!

I have an IO mount I use with a go-pro and have no vibration issues. Maybe because the camera is so light?

-Vick

I don't know if this is an issue since I had the same camera in my S4 with no problems (same mount too)

[Jim Boemler]

In fairness, I'd assume the S4 had a lot softer suspension than the SM. The zip-tie may help, but it's only masking the problem.

[Danny Steyn]

Jonathon

I ran something very similar for the previous 2 years. After dealing with similar issues the best solution was

• Mount the IO port on the frame in such a way that there is minimat extension of the arm. It is best when the camera mount is directly above the clamp
• With a socket wrench tighten up the IO port polyurethane bushing and squeeze it as much as possible. I was able to get about 4 complete turns before the system went rigid
• Switch OFF the Image Stabilization - Sony's VR system tries to compensate for violent movement it sees and oversompensates
• And here is the most important tip. Be very careful with the mounting plate. Almost all the 1/4" screws on all teh various clamps, that screw into the Sony tripod mounting plate will bottom up against the plastic camera body, distorting the mounting plate. The very flimsy mounting plate is screwed onto the camear by 4 very small jewellers screws. Only turn in the 1/4" screw a few turns and then use the locking nut to cinch the camera tight. If you inist on driving up the screw until it bottoms up against teh camera body, the plate will distort/buckle and you will seldom get a rigid mount.
• Over the 2008/2009 period I upgraded my Sony cameras (all HDR variants) several times and each camera had a distorted mounting plate, so I made my own out of stainless steel and epoxied it on to the bottom of the camera. This gave me the most rigid platform.

For 2010 / 2011 I upgraded to the Sony HXR-MC1 and I now have them in both my cars. They are a little bit pricey but they provide exceptional video. The camera is tethered to the seperate recorder with a cable so it is light and easily mounted anywhere and has ZERO vibration issues at all. The recorder has a screen so you can easily postion the camera to get the best view (ensuring rear view mirror action). Full LANC synch to Traqmate. Only thing I would want them to upgrade on this camera is a seperate mic input so I can get the mic closer to the engine and out of the wind.

You can see the vdeo results on my youtube channel

[Jim Boemler]

Great tips, Danny. Below is an example of what a really stable mount will do for you -- check the video at impact.

http://yourvote.com/...2ShortRace1.wmv

[Jonathan Ng]

In fairness, I'd assume the S4 had a lot softer suspension than the SM. The zip-tie may help, but it's only masking the problem.

Haha, valid point. It rides a tad bit smoother

Jonathon

I ran something very similar for the previous 2 years. After dealing with similar issues the best solution was

• Mount the IO port on the frame in such a way that there is minimat extension of the arm. It is best when the camera mount is directly above the clamp
• With a socket wrench tighten up the IO port polyurethane bushing and squeeze it as much as possible. I was able to get about 4 complete turns before the system went rigid
• Switch OFF the Image Stabilization - Sony's VR system tries to compensate for violent movement it sees and oversompensates
• And here is the most important tip. Be very careful with the mounting plate. Almost all the 1/4" screws on all teh various clamps, that screw into the Sony tripod mounting plate will bottom up against the plastic camera body, distorting the mounting plate. The very flimsy mounting plate is screwed onto the camear by 4 very small jewellers screws. Only turn in the 1/4" screw a few turns and then use the locking nut to cinch the camera tight. If you inist on driving up the screw until it bottoms up against teh camera body, the plate will distort/buckle and you will seldom get a rigid mount.
• Over the 2008/2009 period I upgraded my Sony cameras (all HDR variants) several times and each camera had a distorted mounting plate, so I made my own out of stainless steel and epoxied it on to the bottom of the camera. This gave me the most rigid platform.

For 2010 / 2011 I upgraded to the Sony HXR-MC1 and I now have them in both my cars. They are a little bit pricey but they provide exceptional video. The camera is tethered to the seperate recorder with a cable so it is light and easily mounted anywhere and has ZERO vibration issues at all. The recorder has a screen so you can easily postion the camera to get the best view (ensuring rear view mirror action). Full LANC synch to Traqmate. Only thing I would want them to upgrade on this camera is a seperate mic input so I can get the mic closer to the engine and out of the wind.

You can see the vdeo results on my youtube channel

These are awesome tips, do you have any photos of the mounting plate? Sounds like something I should do too. I'll try all of these, and put together a write up of how it worked out.

[Danny Steyn]

Here is the pic of the first one I made - a bit rough but you get the idea - stainless steel 1/16" thick screwed and epoxied to camera base

[Chi Ho]

is funny i just pick up the same camera to work with my traqmate HD, last weekend is the first time trying it out and i am having the same problem i also have the io mount in the same car with other camera without problem i have tried turning the stabilizer off and turn it manual foucs but is still the same, guess will tried shorted the legs on the mount to see what happen let me know what you come up with and i will do the same.

thanks

[Ken Wilkinson]

Danny,
Is the purpose of the mounting plate to act as a spacer between the camera and mount so that the mounting screw does not bottom out on the camera, or do you thread the 1/4" hole in the mounting plate so that it is accepting the mounting screw?

[Danny Steyn]

Ken

My mounting plate mainly serves one function - to spread the load across the entire base of the camera and stiffen it substantially (you will note that the Sony plate area is thin plastic and only ocupies a small part of the camera base)

WIth the original Sony plate you will often bottom out and over tighten thus buckling the plastic mounting plate. Also the minute you have a side impact, with the wieght of the camera it will exert a tremendouns rotating moment on the plastic base and buckle it.

Just about every Sony camera that I have seen of this styue ends up with a curved (buckled) mounting plate.

Make sure tha you are using the rotating inching nut to tighten the screw and not the screw itself as it will bottom out and buckle the plate.

In the end I moved on to the Sony HXR-MC1 because of the light weight of the camera, as the camera is seperated from the recording mechanism. Been very happy with this camera

[Keith Andrews]

I use a straight piece of water/radiator hose wrapped around my roll bar for the camera mount. It further isolates the vibration and is cheap and simple. My camera is no where near as nice as yours though.

[Chi Ho]

Well after hours of tryin different things to try to make it work i got no where been on the phone with sony tech team and at the end they told me that because of the internal memory recording on this camcorder it might not work for our use so any more idea guys please help!!!! i have try every different setting possible on the camera, tighten the mount the most i could, extra support on the mount and around the camera, put more isolator between the mount and the roller/ between the camera and the mount the soften the vibration but nothing is working..........