24 replies to this topic

[Jonathan Ng]

I put this together last night, here's some pics of the build. If anybody is interested I can put together a DIY.

[Johnny D]

Maybe it's overkill but, I bought insulation for steel/copper pipes at the hardware store. The I.D. is a little big so where the slice is along the insulation I cut a V groove making it so when you wrap it around the tube the I.D. it's the same dia. as the tube and them wrapped it all with tape, trying to keep the shape you want to have from the chest to the driver hookups.
I can post pics later if you don't get it.
J~

[Jonathan Ng]

Maybe it's overkill but, I bought insulation for steel/copper pipes at the hardware store. The I.D. is a little big so where the slice is along the insulation I cut a V groove making it so when you wrap it around the tube the I.D. it's the same dia. as the tube and them wrapped it all with tape, trying to keep the shape you want to have from the chest to the driver hookups.
I can post pics later if you don't get it.
J~

Nope, I plan on insulating the tubing that will connect to my shirt Pics are great, post em up when you get a chance.

[JayF]

Looks good! Would you mind throwing together a parts list? Other than that I think it is pretty self explanatory. Thanks!!!!

[Johnny D]

Jonathan keeps starting a new thread for every question. A lot has already been covered.
Team four on my post has a B.O.M at the bottom, other have different opinions on which connector.
http://mazdaracers.c...st=0

Do a search here and in the archives, you'll find some more.
J~

[Joe Benoit]

I'm about to do the exact same thing with the same cooler. After I figured out the fittings and got them I found that the panel mount female drybreak connectors can't pass through the cooler wall, not enough thread to reach the otherside and secure with the nut. I'm assuming this is why you went through the handle depression? Also I'm stepping down from the pump 3/4" output to 1/2" and then to 1/4". Does that matter? Any ideas on how to get the connectors neatly mounted in the side of the cooler instead of the lid? I insulated my hose extension like Johnny D said. Worked great.

Joe

[Johnny D]

I'm about to do the exact same thing with the same cooler. After I figured out the fittings and got them I found that the panel mount female drybreak connectors can't pass through the cooler wall, not enough thread to reach the otherside and secure with the nut. I'm assuming this is why you went through the handle depression? Also I'm stepping down from the pump 3/4" output to 1/2" and then to 1/4". Does that matter? Any ideas on how to get the connectors neatly mounted in the side of the cooler instead of the lid? I insulated my hose extension like Johnny D said. Worked great.

Joe

Team Four design did it through the top so it wouldn't leak and because the connectors are,'t long enough.
I did it through the wall as well and found the same issue. I put a hard plastic tube and silicone next but ended up leaking again. I ended up making 2 plastic plates about 2" sq with a hole that were just big enough for the tube to pass through, really tight. left enough tubing on both sides (of the chest wall). Glued/Siliconed one plate on the inside wall, filled the inside hole between the walls and finally glued the other plate on the outside. No issues after 6 months.

Stepping down is what everone has to do on the pump. I did it like Jonathan, 3/4 tube with 1/4 tube fitting , but any step down is fine.
J~

[Joe Benoit]

My thought to get through the wall was to find some kind of threaded nipple inside and out. Then I can thread the quick connector onto it and then use a thin jam nut on the inside to pinch the whole assembly together and tight to the wall of the cooler. I'd use plenty of epoxy/silicone to make sure it's sealed tight. The factory runs them out the side but I've never seen one on the inside to determine how they do that. It's the exact same cooler and I can't find a standard Colder panel fitting with long enough threads to make it through.

Joe

[Greg Kimble]

Joe,

I have build the same set-up as shown here with the exception of the the fittings on the lid. I wanted them in the side of the cooler as you mention. I used the same barbed fittings as shown here, but I taped off the hose barbs with masking tape to keep the silicon off, and used a loctite silicon adhesive/glue to mount the fittings in the side of the cooler. They have been in there for a year, and have not leaked or broken free from the cooler. I did rough up the plastic a little around where I put the fittings in the cooler. I let everything dry for a day and then removed the tape from the hose barbs and then attached the hoses to the pump and a put a small section of hose on the return line to drop the water away from the wall of the cooler. Can post pics if anyone wants to see, also still have some of the sealant in the shop if anyone wants the part number.

Greg

[Tom Hampton]

Here's the way I've done it. I used 3/4" bulkhead fittings from mcmaster carr. I haven't finished the write up, but my grandson is here, so I won't really get to complete it until after he departs. So, this covers most of it. I'll clean it up later.

http://www.tomhampto...1/07/cool-suit/

-tch

[Lee Tilton]

For those interested, here is the link to my setup with parts list:

Team Four Racing Cool Shirt DIY

[Joe Benoit]

Tom,

Thanks for posting your parts list. I looked at your fittings list and found the part that I'm missing. The panel mount should solve my side mount issues. McMasters is the best! I was hoping for a neat and tidy way to pass the wires out of the cooler as well, but I think I'll be drilling a small hole and sealing it up.

Greg,

The name of the loctite you used would be great.

Has anyone ever tried using industrial velcro to keep the pump on the bottom of the cooler? I'm not sure if it can stand up to the cold temps and water and ice slothing around. Since I'm using a RULE pump I could also epoxy the detachable strainer (blue part) to the cooler floor? I was trying to avoid screwing it down.

Joe

[HoneyBadger - BrianW]

Has anyone ever tried using industrial velcro to keep the pump on the bottom of the cooler? I'm not sure if it can stand up to the cold temps and water and ice slothing around. Since I'm using a RULE pump I could also epoxy the detachable strainer (blue part) to the cooler floor? I was trying to avoid screwing it down.

Joe

I use velcro to secure my pump. I tried silicone, epoxy and various other adhesives. None of them stuck to the slippery surface of the cooler. Velcro has worked great for me.

[Tom Hampton]

Yeah, the cooler plastic feels like polyethylene. There isn't a good adhesive for hdpe and related plastics.

[steveracer]

My cooler came with a plastic grate insert. I zip-tied the pump base to the grate.

For that matter, a small piece of hardware cloth would do the same.

[Greg Kimble]

Joe,

The sealant is "Loctite Clear Silicon Adhesive Sealant" looks like the part number is 991240. I used Loctite Marine expoxy to affix the blue strainer to the bottom of the cooler, justed roughed up the area with a sandpaper first.

Greg

[Joe Benoit]

Great info guys. I'm going to use the plastic insert and zipties first. If that doesn't work then I'll go with the Velcro then glue.

Joe

[Johnny D]

I use velcro to secure my pump. I tried silicone, epoxy and various other adhesives. None of them stuck to the slippery surface of the cooler. Velcro has worked great for me.

I've never secured the pump and have never had a problem. The tube keeps it in place and it's floating in water/ice. I have seen people that have glued/secured it, have problems primming it. A simple turn the pump sideways (because I can), and it starts to pump right away.
J~

[Joe Benoit]

Has anyone seen the inside of the FAST cooler? I wonder how they deal with the through wall fittings. I actually called Colder.com and finally reached a live person. She informed me that I had the longest panel mount fitting they carry. I used Tom's list and ordered a similar panel fitting to use one of the Colder 1/4 Socket fitting in (with a bushing). It will work but I'm not wanting to cut the giant hole in the side of the cooler unless I have to. If anyone has the interior picture of a FAST cooler set up, I'd love to see how they got this done minus the large holes and fittings.

Joe

[mdjordan2004]

Has anyone seen the inside of the FAST cooler? I wonder how they deal with the through wall fittings. I actually called Colder.com and finally reached a live person. She informed me that I had the longest panel mount fitting they carry. I used Tom's list and ordered a similar panel fitting to use one of the Colder 1/4 Socket fitting in (with a bushing). It will work but I'm not wanting to cut the giant hole in the side of the cooler unless I have to. If anyone has the interior picture of a FAST cooler set up, I'd love to see how they got this done minus the large holes and fittings.

Joe

I have seen the inside of a fast cooler. pretty much the same as cool shirt but there is some kind of vented metal mounted around the pvc pipe on the systems that have helmet air also works about as well as the cool shirt cooler with air just ok. As for the cool shirt they have machined plastic that goes through the side wall of the box for the quick disconnect fittings. Hope that helps.