motor swap
#1
Posted 08-01-2011 06:10 PM
What else should I do while I have it pulled? Anything I should do to the newish motor before it goes in?
All tips, advice, warnings, lessons learned, and links to how-to's would be greatly appreciated.
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#2
Posted 08-01-2011 06:22 PM
Greg
#3
Posted 08-01-2011 06:33 PM
#4
Posted 08-01-2011 06:48 PM
#5
Posted 08-01-2011 07:05 PM
Before installing the "new" engine replace any rubber part/hose/seal you are not absolutely sure about - mounts too.
#6
Posted 08-01-2011 07:41 PM
So I finally finished my car and promptly blew my 150,000 mile 1.6 motor in my second race.
I don't feel so bad now... made it through my second race, was qualifying for my third when mine blew this weekend. Let me know how it goes! I'm looking for one as well, only a 99 1.8 version. Good Luck.
#7
Posted 08-01-2011 08:55 PM
While you are there...
1. Replace the rubber coolant plug at the rear of the motor.
2. Replace the rubber plug behind the alternator / in front of the oil filter.
3. Clutch disk if worn.
4. Rear main seal if leaking. If it ain't, don't touch it.
5. Trains front seals if leaking. If it ain't, don't touch it.
6. Timing belt and associated stuff?
7. Remove the trans with the motor (easier IMO) and add this stuff to the underside of the trans tunnel and the driver side firewall. http://www.summitrac...rts/DEI-050503/
8. Wash/Clean the engine bay.
#8
Posted 08-01-2011 09:29 PM
#9
Posted 08-02-2011 08:40 AM
#10
Posted 08-02-2011 08:41 AM
When you get to the rear PPF bolts, loosen them but don't remove and whack the head from the bottom with a hammer to dislodge the top nuts.
Be very carefull if you stop late in the evening with something half done and note where you're at. It's an easy way to forget to hook something up or torque something down.
#11
Posted 08-02-2011 09:45 AM
I decided to pull motor WITHOUT the tranny. It actually went smoothly. Stabbing it did take 2 people and some foul words. Jacking the tranny as high as it would go and using a leveler on the motor helped.
I did a full rebuild on that motor, but the one thing I suggest is to clean fuel injectors. I rigged up a device using rubber hose and a syringe to pressurize the injector with carb cleaner. I fabricated a switch and used a spare battery to activate the injector. I cleaned reverse flow first and then normal flow. This is the same technique used to clean my pool filter (alternating between reverse and forward flow). I know there are cleaning services available, but I like trying to do as much on my own as possible.
Doing this, I actually found an injector that was stuck open (flows with now power applied). Use pleny of vasoline on orings to prevent damage.
Here is a link to video of me running the injectors on a bench in my garage.
http://s447.photobuc...elinjectors.mp4
Oh...take pictures of everything before you remove old motor. It helped me out many times.
#12
Posted 08-02-2011 09:51 AM
2. Replace the rubber plug behind the alternator / in front of the oil filter.
I have never found a part number for that -- does anyone know it?
William Keeling
#13
Posted 08-02-2011 10:25 AM
I have never found a part number for that -- does anyone know it?
The guys at Mazda know how to find the number. I keep a couple on hand, but throw away the baggies when they arrive.
Dave Wheeler
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#14
Posted 08-02-2011 10:53 AM
#15
Posted 08-02-2011 11:37 AM
I have never found a part number for that -- does anyone know it?
Part numbers for 1.6L (I don't know if they are the same for 1.8 or 99):
Alternator/Oil filter water cap:
Cab be found on the engine block page at mazdaspeed.
Cap: 10-328
Clamp: 18-291B
Rear of Cylinder head water cap:
This is located on the cylinder head page at mazdaspeed:
Cap: 13-104T
Clamp: 15-538
-tch
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#16
Posted 08-02-2011 12:52 PM
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