39 replies to this topic

[Bruce Wilson]

Wow I know something Dave doesn't, but I doubt it will make it into the book

Squished shock bushings allow the car to ride lower before hitting the stops (makes the shock shorter than new), so lower equals more available camber. Does anyone remember shortened shocks Oh crap, did I give another secret why do I feel old all of a sudden?

-bw

[davew]

Wow I know something Dave doesn't, but I doubt it will make it into the book

Squished shock bushings allow the car to ride lower before hitting the stops (makes the shock shorter than new), so lower equals more available camber. Does anyone remember shortened shocks Oh crap, did I give another secret why do I feel old all of a sudden?

-bw

Ok, I will give you the 1/8 inch of squish allows more bump travel. But with 99 hats, you have plenty of bump travel already.

I would much prefer my shocks mounted securely, than squishing the bushings.

Dave

p.s. I am planning an update on the book over the winter. Maybe even start on it at the Runoffs, if the man drama isn't that entertaining.

[Glenn]

p.s. I am planning an update on the book over the winter. Maybe even start on it at the Runoffs, if the man drama isn't that entertaining.

Oh it is ALWAYS entertaining!

[AW33COM]

OK. I just got out of the garage after being there for 2 days. First let me reply to posts and then I'll list what I found out.

Schabi, I see that you are here in The Garbage State. Are you planning on coming to the race this weekend at NJMP? Sounds like it might be a good time for you to walk around the paddock and ask questions. There are something like 60 Miatae registered between SM, SSM, SM5, and SM2.

I was not aware there is an event there, but I'm going. What day are the races on Saturday or Sunday?

You want squished lower shock bushings because that gives you more available camber. Test the shocks the way Jim describes or have them dynoed, but you'll probably want to keep them.

Interesting. I performed Jim's test and the shocks seem OK. They are all even. I will leave them in.


Now, I just dropped the entire suspension on the car, and here is what I found out:

1. Adj. sway bar links are missing washers. Is this another racing trick I'm not aware of, or it's really bad as the bars were not working at all.
2. Shocks/springs have different top robber holders/seals ( I have no idea what the technical name is, it's the part that holds the spring from the top, and it's not the shock mount). My left rear shock has a very small robber seal/holder, and the spring does not sit in it like it does on the other shocks.
3. Shocks were missing nuts from the top.
4. Front lower ball joints ripped.
5. Front upper ball joint in the arm also ripped. Looks like the arm is $300 per one and there is no way to change that ball joint there.
6. CV joints low on grease.
7. Bushings seem very good at least from the outside.
8. Brake disc shields are missing. That is illegal I believe.

So long story short I'm happy I did remove it all. I'll understand my suspension more. The only thing that troubles me is the following:

1. Where to buy those adj. sway bar link washers without buying the links?
2. Which shock/spring seal/holder is the correct size? The big one or the small one? It looks like the big one is the correct one as the spring rests against it.
3. Where to buy #2?
4. Which grease should I use for CV joints?
5. Is CV2 the best grease for hub repacking (my new hubs came in)?

[Muda]

We're all at Thunderbolt now. New Jersey Motorsports Park.
You should really stop down and get your questions answered properly and see how different people put this stuff together.
You'll save yourself a lot of time.
Over 40 miata's registered.

[dstevens]

Mazdaspeed sells the ball joint covers. Many of us use Redline CV2. Any good industrial hardware store will have the goods to get your sway bar links back up to speed. The spring perches and sleeves you can get from an Eibach dealer.

Good to go with no brake shields

9.1.8.5a

Backing plates and dirt shields may be ventilated or removed.

Head over to NJMP and meet up with the gang.

[Keith Novak]

The end link washers are really more like spacers. Not all end links are the same so you'll need to pick the thickness based on your end links. McMaster Carr is good for finding that kind of stuff.

I think you're either looking for shock hats, or bumpstops. Best to just get a fat cat kit with '99 hats and be done with it.

You definately don't want missing nuts.

If just the rubber boot is ripped and the ball joint is fine, you can get replacement boots. Pry them off and then use a large socket for a drift to press the new ones on.

Some people prefer different flavors of grease. I haven't heard too many complaints about Redline.

Removing dust sheilds is legal, and generally preferred.

[davew]

You should figure out what brand of sway links you have. Then get the correct spacers from that manufacturer. Everybodies is a little different. Post a pic and I am sure we can identify the part.

Again, post pix of the spring "holder/seal". My guess is that whoever built the car left one of the oem spring isolators in the car. Pix will help.

Shocks are missing nuts, Bad, VERY bad. I really hate ite it when my nuts disappear.

The ball joint boots are ripped not the actual joint. This is not a big deal. I wouldn't give it another thought. Assuming the joint itself is good.

Lower ball joints are available seperately. Upper is only available as part of the upper control arm assembly. The front upper arm is the only new control arm that comes with bushings.

How can you tell the CV joints are low on grease? They really only hold about 1/2 of a tube of toothpaste worth of grease. If you have them apart, replace the boots. the boot kit will come with new clamps and the proper amount of the proper grease.

For wheel bearings, use any high quality synthetic grease. I have used Mobil 1 and CV2 with good results. I am now partial to Schaefer grease. Works as good as the other at half the price.

Post some pix and all your answers will be found

Dave

The outer 5% of the bushing looks good. Great, what about the other 95% that is hidden inside the control arm? 95% of the bad bushings look good from the outside.

It is LEGAL to remove the brake dust shields. I remove the rears, but use the fronts as they have a scoop to direct some air to the rotors. I don't know if the scoops actually work, but that is my method.

[dmathias]

Has anyone seen Schabi's nuts?

[AW33COM]

Dave, excellent post. Everything is clear. I will order the entire package from you once I come back from my vacations.

Can you guys give me your car numbers? I was at NJMP today and I spoke to Nick L, and few other guys, but I had no way to find you.
I'll drive up there tomorrow as well.

[Muda]

Good Schabi, glad you got to NJMP.
We had a 46 car field for the SM race so it was quite a turnout.

Nick has personally inspected more nuts than I care to think about.
He knows of what he speaks.

Hope you had fun watching us.

[AW33COM]

OK. I million dollar question: What happened to the production of Flange HEX Nuts in Brass color? I can not find them anywhere. All flange hex nuts on the Miata were in brass. All of my old Jap cars have those nuts. I ordered few from the Mazda dealer, guess what, they came in zinc color.

MC Master does not have them either. No one makes them? Why?

[dmathias]

Pardon my ignorance, but what do the 'brass color flange HEX nuts' fasten, and why do they need to be brass color?

[Jim Boemler]

The "brass color" is really cadmium plating. Like many other products that "go away", cad plating is going away because of government and environmental concerns. Cadmium is a toxin, and in certain circumstances (notably radiation) it can emit a poisonous gas. Basically cadmium has become one of the "bad" chemicals.

Safety alert: don't sniff your nuts.

[Muda]

Jim - I haven't gotten around to saying this yet, but it is so nice to have you back.
Especially tackling difficult bad nut questions like this.

[AW33COM]

The "brass color" is really cadmium plating. Like many other products that "go away", cad plating is going away because of government and environmental concerns. Cadmium is a toxin, and in certain circumstances (notably radiation) it can emit a poisonous gas. Basically cadmium has become one of the "bad" chemicals.

This was my feeling, but the next question would be: why do they make bolts and washers in that color?

[Jim Boemler]

Jim - I haven't gotten around to saying this yet, but it is so nice to have you back.
Especially tackling difficult bad nut questions like this.

Thanks! But it's not like there was a shortage of nuts without me.

This was my feeling, but the next question would be: why do they make bolts and washers in that color?

Cad plating can be clear, but it's traditionally done in gold so it's easy to verify that the fastener is indeed plated. The plating is a requirement for many projects, so the color is a quality control feature.

[AW33COM]

What is even more weird I find them in Yellow Zinc, but in standard form, and not metric.

BTW, they have it: http://www.fullermet...flange_nut.aspx

It's in Canada, but not that expensive.

[Jim Boemler]

You seem just a little fixated on the color! "Goldfinger" is already taken, but we could nickname you "Goldnads".

[AW33COM]

^ I want to have everything nice.

I got approved for Mazda Performance, so it's a little easier now. No more trips to the dealer.