23 replies to this topic

[smbstyle]

Hey all, on my newly aquired "track-prepped" Miata, I noticed the paint on the cage is starting to flake off in some areas, and then a little bit of surface rust is showing on those unpainted surface (water coming in from around the windows when driving in rain).

Here is a bit of the flaking and a tiny bit of surface rust you can see:



I am looking to repaint the cage semi-gloss white soon, but have a few questions.

What is the best way to strip off the old paint and clear up the surface rust spots?
Should I be using a primer, or should I go straight to painting?
What is better to use, spray can or roller? I'd like to minimize overspray.
What brand paint should I be using? I've been seeing a lot of guys use Rustoleum.
Im thinking of doing the floorboards as well on both sides of the car, so for the floorboards I was figuring the roller would be best for that.


Also, my other issue is the rear panel of the car right around the area where the trunk-lid keyhole is has some surface rust. looks like there may have been some contact on track and it wasnt repaired. Is this something that I can fix myself, or should I be taking this to a body shop to repair the surface rust on the outside of the car? If not, whats the best way to remove the rust and repaint the area? I don't have a spray gun or anything, not sure if that Dupli-Color rattle can will work.

Thanks all, you all have been great so far! I'm excited to get all the little odds and ends taken care of on this thing and get it out on track.

[Tom Hampton]

For the cage: I wouldn't strip it. I would just scuff sand and repaint. I use Sherwin Williams prep-n-primer for bare metal and light surface rust. It will stabilize the light rust. But, id sand as much off as I could. Use emory cloth for the sanding.

For the car : in not sure I understand where this rust is. I thought all cars had plastic around the keyhole. Na used a two piece, and nb used a single piece bumper.

A body shop will be pretty expensive. If your color is easy to match (not a pearl or metalic, if a multi tone), id just sand out the rust, finish sand to 320 grit, metal prep, prime, and repaint.

You want to repaint the whole panel up to a natural edge. This will minimize the effect of any color mismatch. Also, you can get an auto paint store to custom match your color. That requires a paint setup (compressor and gun). Maybe a friend has one?

[wheel]

Most good Auto stores, that sell mixed paint, will not only mix up some to match, but will load it into rattle cans for you. I just did a pint, matched from the color code of the car. It filled four rattle cans at about $18 per can. About double the regular stuff, but it matches the original paint perfectly. This is more for painting the exterior, rather than a cage, where a perfect match is probably not as important.


wheel

[Tom Hampton]

Most good Auto stores, that sell mixed paint, will not only mix up some to match, but will load it into rattle cans for you. I just did a pint, matched from the color code of the car. It filled four rattle cans at about $18 per can. About double the regular stuff, but it matches the original paint perfectly. This is more for painting the exterior, rather than a cage, where a perfect match is probably not as important.


wheel

Huh, cool. Never knew, if even thought to ask!

[Justin Fowler]

What we use to do in the body shop was use some 3m scotch-brite just to rough up the surface, then you can use even brake cleaner to soften and clean up the current paint. I use brake cleaner on some things I paint because it softens the paint and lets the new paint really etch itself in. But then again I live in Texas and the 100* weather would bake it right in.

[Alberto]

Yuck. Brake Clean. It totally fucked me up for a week a few months ago when I apparently inhaled enough to screw up my sinuses when cleaning the oil pan after a messy oil change.

[Justin Fowler]

That's why you always use respirators! But surprisingly it will work pretty good

[wheel]

Be very careful using brake clean around very hot surfaces, like hot brake rotors. The fumes can be very harmful and, in some cases with people who have breathing problems, fatal.

[Jim Boemler]

Not all brake cleaner is the same! Some is really nasty, and others arent bad at all. Be sure to use a non-chlorinated type. I've been using Brake Cleaner II from Tacoma Screw, which works very well, and can be used in closed spaces without much problem.

[Justin Fowler]

Well I have seen alot of people think carb cleaner will do the same as brake cleaner and they are wrong. Carb cleaner leaves behind a oily film, the only brake cleaner I ever use is Parts Master Brake Cleaner, just be sure to use a real fine cloth to wipe down with

[smbstyle]

For the cage: I wouldn't strip it. I would just scuff sand and repaint. I use Sherwin Williams prep-n-primer for bare metal and light surface rust. It will stabilize the light rust. But, id sand as much off as I could. Use emory cloth for the sanding.

For the car : in not sure I understand where this rust is. I thought all cars had plastic around the keyhole. Na used a two piece, and nb used a single piece bumper.

A body shop will be pretty expensive. If your color is easy to match (not a pearl or metalic, if a multi tone), id just sand out the rust, finish sand to 320 grit, metal prep, prime, and repaint.

You want to repaint the whole panel up to a natural edge. This will minimize the effect of any color mismatch. Also, you can get an auto paint store to custom match your color. That requires a paint setup (compressor and gun). Maybe a friend has one?

What grit should I be using for the emory cloth? I can simply start sanding the old paint and rust?

On the car, that plastic piece is removable, and the rust is underneath the plastic piece.

[smbstyle]

What we use to do in the body shop was use some 3m scotch-brite just to rough up the surface, then you can use even brake cleaner to soften and clean up the current paint. I use brake cleaner on some things I paint because it softens the paint and lets the new paint really etch itself in. But then again I live in Texas and the 100* weather would bake it right in.

So will the scotch brite or brake clean take off the old paint? Im not sure if I should go to complete bare metal since I'll be painting it a different color.

[smbstyle]

Most good Auto stores, that sell mixed paint, will not only mix up some to match, but will load it into rattle cans for you. I just did a pint, matched from the color code of the car. It filled four rattle cans at about $18 per can. About double the regular stuff, but it matches the original paint perfectly. This is more for painting the exterior, rather than a cage, where a perfect match is probably not as important.


wheel

Hm, that sounds like a great idea to get a perfect paint match for the rear panel. I'll do that, thanks!

Did you go to a chain retailer, or just a local independent shop nearby?

[Justin Fowler]

The fastest way to get down to bare metal is sand blast, but I doubt you want to tear your car down to a tub and go through the hassle of that. So your best bet is using sand paper, usually a good finish is 180 grit. I don't really remember what grit will get you down to bare metal and leave a smooth finish on it so you may have to experiment with that.

[Tom Hampton]

Cage: 120grit, is fine. Remember, it's just a cage. It will get scuffed every time you get in and out if the car.

Car: at least 220, but for "perfect" machine sand to 220, then wetsand with 320.

[wheel]

The auto parts store I used is called True autoparts, in Merriam Kansas. There are several different stores in the K.C. area. I got the store names from a buddy in the body shop business. Any body shop should be able to tell you which auto stores will do it.
wheel

[dstevens]

Cage: 120grit, is fine. Remember, it's just a cage. It will get scuffed every time you get in and out if the car.

Car: at least 220, but for "perfect" machine sand to 220, then wetsand with 320.

That's about what I use except I haven't wet sanded a race car. They just get too mashed up, particularly the hobby stock. I'll give another shout out for Scotch Brite. It can be had for about 15 bucks a box. I use it primarily for joint prep for fab but it works for paint prep as well.

[smbstyle]

What about just using a body shop safe paint stripper to take off the old paint? Or do I just need to scuff the surface and sand off the surface rust?

[Tom Hampton]

Too messy, and way too much trouble. Just Scuff and repaint.

I always use metal prep on any bare metal.

[smbstyle]

Too messy, and way too much trouble. Just Scuff and repaint.

I always use metal prep on any bare metal.

awesome, one less step! it's all scuffed and areas w/ surface rust have been sanded. Im priming it tonight. I might just leave it primer since the primer is white anyways.