33 replies to this topic

[Jim Boemler]

I vote you just pussyfoot around the track.

[Qik Nip]

I know why I'm breaking them. To go fast I have a choice of either shifting 40% more than you weenies with your higher stock rev limiters (often mid corner), damage the motor, pussyfoot it around the track, or consider transmissions somewhat a disposable wear and tear item.

Keith:
Good to see there's another transmissioin thrasher our there. I was begining to think I was all alone! I think I now have two 3 to 4 shift "scratchers" that would be perfectly good street units.
Rick

[Blake Thompson]

Keith:
Good to see there's another transmissioin thrasher our there. I was begining to think I was all alone! I think I now have two 3 to 4 shift "scratchers" that would be perfectly good street units.
Rick

funny isn't it? Customers always want to know if used parts I have were ever raced. Er, you mean built to tight tolerances and thrown away after 10% of the usage was gone?

[Blake Thompson]

Around here they'll scrap anything. Last time I went the going rate for steel was $200/ton. AL is more but they check each piece to make sure it's really AL. If I had that many trans carcasses I'd learn to rebuild them.

trans cases are Aluminum Scrap steel is $190/ton right now. It always dies when the snow falls though.

[Jim Drago]

I am trying to blog my new build of my 2012 car.. Not the best at blogging or keeping up with build pictures.. This is what we do with our cars.

I just edit my original blog and start a new date when I add something new.. I updated it today

Jim


http://mazdaracers.c...-2012-sm-build/

[Keith Novak]

That shows the difference right there. A $7k build starts with a cheap donor, and you just change the suspension and a few other bits. A 30k car starts with a straight tub, a good donor radiator overflow bottle and wiper fluid resivoir and everything else is replaced.

[svvs]

Ha, I should take a picture of the underside of my car for comparison sake!

to quote the guy who works on my car for me "you might not want to look around too much under here.....as the driver it may make you nervous to see what you're sitting on....."

[dstevens]

trans cases are Aluminum Scrap steel is $190/ton right now. It always dies when the snow falls though.

Of course the case is AL. Around here they won't take a complete trans and give you AL pricing. They'll make you pull out the guts or give steel price for the whole thing. I use one of the local SA recycling yards in North Vegas.

[B(Kuch)Kucera45]

Just do what I did when I started racing.I bought the donor with hard top,put the suspension and cage in it and started racing.This will teach you to go fast without counting on all the go fast items.Then add to the car as you get money,doing it this way will make you a better driver.

I love to watch alot of guy's out there that have a top notch car and don't even know the correct racing line.Yes they may be fast but they could be twice as fast with the correct line and car control.Just go out and have fun for the first year and learn as much as you can from some of the good drivers.They will help you out until they see you in there mirrors !

[Todd Tagget]

Thanks Kuch, that's exactly what I am planning on doing!

[James Chappell]

Hello everyone, I just joined the site and was seriously about to pick up a $1,000 donor car but this thread talked some sense into me. Correct me if I'm wrong but SM doesn't seem to be the cheap sport everyone has making it out to be elsewhere on the internet. I guess I was fooling myself thinking I could buy a miata and throw on necessary/mandatory safety equipment, perform necessary maintenance and go racing for a relatively cheap price. I don't care if I come in last every race, I really just want to race. Maybe I will just save for a few years and try again later.

Kuch what was your first few races like with the minimum modifications performed? I just don't want to be so slow that I get in people's way or get on people's nerves. Thanks for the good information everyone!

[Bench Racer]

Hello everyone, I just joined the site and was seriously about to pick up a $1,000 donor car but this thread talked some sense into me. Correct me if I'm wrong but SM doesn't seem to be the cheap sport everyone has making it out to be elsewhere on the internet. I guess I was fooling myself thinking I could buy a miata and throw on necessary/mandatory safety equipment, perform necessary maintenance and go racing for a relatively cheap price. I don't care if I come in last every race, I really just want to race. Maybe I will just save for a few years and try again later.

Kuch what was your first few races like with the minimum modifications performed? I just don't want to be so slow that I get in people's way or get on people's nerves. Thanks for the good information everyone!

James, don't drop the idea before you check things out a bit further. What is your location. Touch base with some Spec Miata racers around you. You can read the SSCA Spec Miata rules on line to see what is mandatory, make a list, think things through & then make your decision. If you have a track near you may leave the car streatable & drive to the track. There are places you may rent a Spec Miata to get a feel at maybe an open track day where a license is not required.

[James York]

Hello everyone, I just joined the site and was seriously about to pick up a $1,000 donor car but this thread talked some sense into me. Correct me if I'm wrong but SM doesn't seem to be the cheap sport everyone has making it out to be elsewhere on the internet. I guess I was fooling myself thinking I could buy a miata and throw on necessary/mandatory safety equipment, perform necessary maintenance and go racing for a relatively cheap price. I don't care if I come in last every race, I really just want to race. Maybe I will just save for a few years and try again later.

Kuch what was your first few races like with the minimum modifications performed? I just don't want to be so slow that I get in people's way or get on people's nerves. Thanks for the good information everyone!

With a good set of skills and some time in the seat, unless the car has some major issue, you won't be in anyone's way, or by yourself. You'll always have someone to race with. Sure you might not be able to "blow by someone" but you can still race.

If you picked up a donor and put the minimum in and could drive a little bit, you could fall into mid-pack or so (your talent will be a big influence). I have definately seen more than once a 20-25K car get beat by a 10k budget ride based on the fact that the driver was that big of factor.

[cam]

Hello everyone, I just joined the site and was seriously about to pick up a $1,000 donor car but this thread talked some sense into me. Correct me if I'm wrong but SM doesn't seem to be the cheap sport everyone has making it out to be elsewhere on the internet. I guess I was fooling myself thinking I could buy a miata and throw on necessary/mandatory safety equipment, perform necessary maintenance and go racing for a relatively cheap price. I don't care if I come in last every race, I really just want to race. Maybe I will just save for a few years and try again later.

Kuch what was your first few races like with the minimum modifications performed? I just don't want to be so slow that I get in people's way or get on people's nerves. Thanks for the good information everyone!

If I were to restart from scratch knowing now what I know, I would start with the most inexpensive and straightest donor I could find, have the safest cage installed I can find, install the rest of the suspension kit from MazdaSpeed and rest of the required equipment and get a HANS and rest of required personal safety equipment and start attending track days with the specific goal of attending Race School at the of the year. IMHO, working on your car to improve it will also help you on the track as well as save you money. A top notch/expensive motor will not help you go around corners at the limits. SM still offers the best value for the racing experience. BTW, I have very much a budget build with a home built motor, the car and I are competitive enough and I’m sure I’m having more fun per dollar than anyone else at the track.

Do not skimp of safety equipment, your cage, seat, harness, HANS, and helmet are worthwhile investments.