25 replies to this topic

[Barrett Tilley]

Hey Bay area people and anybody else with suggestions,

As my thumb heals up from the unfortunate accident at Laguna--I am working on finding an enclosed trailer that fits my needs. Here is my situation. I have a 2011 Suburban 1/2 ton with trailer package. It is my current and future tow vehicle as it is our multipurpose family truck. In the future I would prefer the 3/4 or a proper tow vehicle--but for now I must make the suburban work. My current open trailer is great. I just need the enclosed to keep my car safe and sound at storage.

I would like an enclosed trailer that won't push the design limits of my Suburban. It has a listed max of 10,000 lbs but there is no way I want to be even close to that max. 6000-7000 lbs is the target. 24 ft seems to be the suggestion from most people but 20 ft is probably better for me. The car will be stored in the trailer much of the time. Space for spare tires is needed. I looked at a used 24ft TPD that would be great but it is probably too much for my truck.

I would love local suggestions for trailers. I am open to most options. New/used. What options are critical/useful/needed?

Thanks in advance.

Barrett

[KentCarter]

I wonder if closed trailers are really more secure. I never hear of anybody stealing a Miata on an open trailer, but closed trailers get swiped all the time.

[steveracer]

Open trailers get stolen too, we just don't hear about it because the car wasn't taken too...LoJack is your friend.

[davew]

Contact Bravo Trailers. They are a site sponsor here. Owned by Miata racers. They have a nationwide dealer network.

Dave

[dstevens]

The payload capacity on an enclosed, 7k GVWR 20' typical trailer is around 3500 lbs, plus or minus 100-150 depending on who built it. With a 2400 lb car, plus tools and spares that's not a lot left over. Depending on how long your hauls are you might get away with 10k GVWR trailer and not tweak the Suburban. The weight differences in trailers are minimal, it's axle capacity that the big difference. A pro kart team I bought a ride from burned up an F-150 in a year pulling a 10k 28'er but were doing 50k plus miles a year. When they went to a diesel F-250 no problems at all.

Like Dave says, call a trailer guy and talk to them. You can likely get a 10k trailer, not max it out and then when you're ready with a larger tow vehicle, you'll have room to grow with that first trailer instead of selling the 7k trailer. Me, I wouldn't get anything smaller than a 10k 24'er if I could afford it.

[Jim Drago]

It is all about axles... Don't skimp.
My 28 ft enclosed haulmark had 3500 lb axles.. they did not hold up. I bought 6000 lb axles.. never had another flat tire again! Towed better etc.
Haulmarks for the record are POS... Just bought 40 ft Optima, very nice, no comparison

Jim

[William Bonsell]

I personally would not tow a 24" trailer loaded up with only a 1/2 ton Suburban. We can pull at 20" Wells Cargo with a 3/4 ton Suburban 454 without much of a problem. We have plenty of room for the SM including 8 tires and all the tools needed for a weekend. In an ideal world, the 24 would be nice, but I wouldn't stress out if you can find a good 20'....and good deals are out there. I got my 2005 Wells Cargo 20 for less than $2,000. Either way, you might want to beef up Suburban hitch too. We also went to a more aggressive shock package to minimize "porpoising". Works great.

[Greg Kimble]

We tow a 20' with an F150 truck, we use a load leveling hitch which cannot be used with a V-nose trailer, but it tows the load well, we have enough room for the car and all of our spares.

Greg

[Ron Alan]

BT...you can't come on here and not tell us how things are going. Surgery? Prognosis? time out? Screw, pins, needles...come on Doc?? Tom McCarthy, dyno guy in Fremont sells trailers.

[Johnny D]

I've seen the x-rays.
J~

[Kevin Anderson]

I would get a 32' gooseneck. Same as a 24' tag trailer only will tow much easier

[Ken Wilkinson]

Another options, a bit pricey, is aluminium. A good friend tows his E30, 8 extra tires, tools, etc. in a Trailex enclosed aluminum trailer. He tows with his Four Runner that does have added air bags on the suspension. He goes all over the east coast, up and down grades without any problems.
However, it is not immune to breakins, this photo was taken this past Tuesday![attachment=231827:photo 4 (2).jpg]

[Barrett Tilley]

Thanks for all of the advice. That was exactly was I was looking for with the questions.

I have been holding out on posting or discussing the accident--No whining is a personal rule of mine. Here is the update for you--Ron.

My left thumb is healing with the assistance of two small titanium plates and a few screws. I had surgery the Tuesday after Laguna. There were a few aches and pains for the first few days but the major annoyance is the cast. Hot and itchy!!! The left thumb is not all that important for me--but it does make opening/twisting exciting to watch. The cast comes off in two weeks. Then it is all about getting range of motion back and strength. June Laguna weekend it out. Sears point is on--hopefully. Chance of arthritis is 100%. I knocked off a chunk of cartilage from my carpal bone. The base of my thumb (metacarpal) was fine. So I won't have to check weather forecast to know when it is going to rain. Otherwise not a big deal.

I watched the video of my accident. It really was nothing of a hit. The poor guy getting lapped in front just lost his rear end near the apex of 3 and when he caught the slide he was pointed and moving across the track. I tried to move out of the way but was already near the limits mid turn to adjust. I normally keep my thumbs outside of the wheel but in the moment of panic I must have just grabbed the wheel with everything I had to avoid the accident. There was never a "oh $%#$%" moment that I knew I was going to hit until I did. Then a fire cracker went off in my left hand. I finished the last lap giving up 4 positions.

BTW--Thanks to everybody that helped me. Ron, Dion, Greg, Doug, Kyle. I remember going into and out of shock in impound. I love telling how we tried to set the bone but it wouldn't hold. In hind site there was no way as the base of the metacarpal was split in half.

I am ready to drive again...ASAP.

Barrett

[Bad Rusty]

Barrett,

Glad to hear your thumb is getting better. Frankly, we were all more concerned with you turning blue/gray laying down. Interesting hue you had. Anyway, just wanted to jump in on the trailer topic since I have pulled open and enclosed with both a suburban and my escalade (there is a difference, I'll explain), and thought it might have some value.

First, tow with a 3/4 or greater diesel if you can help it.

Second (Distant Second). I have towed my 24 TPD (dual axle, 7500lb heavy axles) with a suburban (5.3) and my escalade (6.0.) The 5.3 has to work pretty hard. The 6.0, suprisingly less. I've towed with a Dodge diesel (reference "First"), and forgot there was a trailer behind me.

If you are going to tow an enclosed, buy the electronic brake controller(Mine is Tekonsha?) Otherwise, the hill at Laguna provides more pucker power than the race. My 24' TPD could almost put two Miatas in it (Almost Holifield cool). The 20' seems perfect for a Miata and some spares. With 24' we have a dance hall when the car is out of it.

Whoever mentioned the heavier axles knows what they are talking about (I did not know, just bought the trailer from a friend who did). And sadly, anything can be stolen, but atleast they too will have to have a good enough truck (insert tow truck here) to drag it away.

See you at Sears Point (can't help it) in July I hope!

Rusty

[dstevens]

These guys have good prices on brake controllers, Southwest Wheel. http://www.brakecontroller.com/ Or you can go to Camping World or even U-Haul. The Tekonsha Prodigy line is pretty popular. For those that aren't familiar a brake controller is basically an accelerometer that controls the trailer brakes in sync with the motion of the tow vehicle. Depending on your state you may be legally required to have trailer brakes at 5k GVWR but even at 7k it's good to have. The end of the first season in stocks I towed a 3500# car on a 16' trailer that didn't have brakes. BIG difference. You'll need to wire it or if your tow vehicle has a tow package it may be pre wired. (on edit: Tekonsha has a wireless controller now, cool)The gang at SW Wheel will give you the adapter if you tell them the vehicle. I got a full tow package, trans cooler, different rear gear and suspension, mounts and wired for the controller and even a 20 amp aux circuit for the winch. And she likes it.... DOH!!! (sorry, had to do a wench joke....)

[Alberto]

Barrett,

FYI - Cliff is towing an 18' enclosed with his 2011(?) Chevy Tahoe. He doesn't seem to have any issues getting around. Sway control and brake is a must though.

[Ron Alan]

Thanks Barrett...no whining(on your part) when asked for the info! The rookies car didn't look like it was nothing...that thing was whooped. Whats amazing is you did the last 2 laps with -15 degress of camber and a shattered thumb! Glad to hear things will mend!

On the trailer note...20' I think is min...though going larger right now might not be necessary...Gregs trailer seems to work great for him.

[Johnny D]

Barrett,

FYI - Cliff is towing an 18' enclosed with his 2011(?) Chevy Tahoe. He doesn't seem to have any issues getting around. Sway control and brake is a must though.

Aaaa, it's a Caddy and he Jackknifed it, but ya all the rest.
J~

[Alberto]

Aaaa, it's a Caddy and he Jackknifed it, but ya all the rest.
J~

Thought it was a chebby or gmc but whatever. Same thing under the skin.

One of the reasons he jack knifed was lack of a trailer brake. Also no sway control.

On another note, my bud in black 3rd gen RX7 that races ITE tows using his older model Tahoe. Now that one does not tow the weight all that well.

[Keith Novak]

I watched a guy last weekend towing a 24' with a newer Tahoe on 20-something inch rims. Kind of comical. He was trying to over-inflate the rear tires to keep the hitch from dragging on the ground.