
Help With Torque Steer...
Started by
MazdaSteve
, 06-28-2012 07:24 AM
#1
Posted 06-28-2012 07:24 AM

I have a '99 with TORSEN. Under acceleration the car torque steers to drivers left, enough that you need to compensate with steering input to keep the car tacking straight. Under engine braking, the effect is reversed and the car wants to torque steer to driver's right. When the car is in a neutral state (maintenance throttle), the car tracks straight and true. Any ideas where to look? I've checked:
Alignment
Cam bolts
TORSEN functionality & mounts
Upper & lower control arm bushings
PPF
Ball joints
Sub-frame mounting bolts
Any help or ideas will be appreciated.
Alignment
Cam bolts
TORSEN functionality & mounts
Upper & lower control arm bushings
PPF
Ball joints
Sub-frame mounting bolts
Any help or ideas will be appreciated.
Seneca Motorsports
#2
Posted 06-30-2012 07:51 AM

how did you check the alignment? sounds to me like the rear wheels are not tracking in the same plane as the fronts - imagine both rear wheels offset towards the passenger side relative to the fronts. or possibly toe was measure with toe plates..toe plates can show zero toe, but that is combined for both sides. so if left rear is toe'd out, and right rear is toe'd in, plates show zero toe, yet it sure as hale won't drive like it 
ahm

ahm
#3
Posted 06-30-2012 09:03 AM

Sounds like one of your cam bolts on the rear lower control arms is loose, probably the front on passengers side
East Street Auto Parts
Jim@Eaststreet.com
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#4
Posted 06-30-2012 07:58 PM

Adam, alignment was checked with strings and toe plates. The rear wheels are tracking straight in relationship to the fronts based on my string measurements.
Jim, I will check the cam bolts again. They are tight, but my understanding is they can stretch so who knows.
I appreciate the input.
Jim, I will check the cam bolts again. They are tight, but my understanding is they can stretch so who knows.
I appreciate the input.
Seneca Motorsports
#5
Posted 06-30-2012 11:28 PM

Have you tried swapping tires around? I've had something similar when using a tire that had more tread than another on the rear.

#6
Posted 07-01-2012 03:30 PM

I don't think thrust angle or any other alignment setting could be the culprit here; it would be consistant under acceleration, braking and steady throttle. Same goes for a tire problem; neither should cause a direction bias change dependant upon load.
Something has got to be loose/broken/cracked to cause a shift in direction like that.
Something has got to be loose/broken/cracked to cause a shift in direction like that.
- Jim Drago likes this
Dave Stine
"America is all about speed. Hot, nasty, bad-ass speed," -Eleanor Roosevelt
"America is all about speed. Hot, nasty, bad-ass speed," -Eleanor Roosevelt
#7
Posted 07-01-2012 05:34 PM

How about cracked/broken differential mount or wasted differential mount bushing?



#8
Posted 07-01-2012 05:50 PM

How about cracked/broken differential mount or wasted differential mount bushing?
Would not discount this altogether, but I'd suspect a part that's allowing the alignment to change under load; anything that holds the uprights in position (control arms, take-up points, subframe mounts, etc.) need to be looked at very closely. Suspension needs to be checked hanging (unloaded), as well as with the car's weight resting on it. Brakes on and off; you really need to try and duplicate the shift, or you may have a tough go at isolating it. Usually, there'll be a thud or bang at the time the shift happens.
Dave Stine
"America is all about speed. Hot, nasty, bad-ass speed," -Eleanor Roosevelt
"America is all about speed. Hot, nasty, bad-ass speed," -Eleanor Roosevelt
#9
Posted 07-01-2012 07:39 PM

I had the something happen many times and I can tell you with almost 100% certainty what it is. The lower rear ( rear of the car)outboard bolt (hook to the upright) on the lower control arm is loose (the long bolt near the tire with a 17mm nut and a 19mm bolt). Double wrench it to make sure it is tight. Even if the nut is tight make sure that is not a result of screwed up threads. The first time that happened to me it took 3 weekends before I found it. That acceleration left/deceleration right is nothing I had experienced with any other issues (broken parts, loose cams, etc). It is a problem all its own. If that does not make sense you will have to wait until I stop drinking in London!!




#10
Posted 07-02-2012 07:48 AM

Thanks fellas. Will take another look when I get it back up on the lift.
Seneca Motorsports
#11
Posted 07-02-2012 09:40 AM

Steve look close at the upper bushing on the rear uprite as well. And plus 10000 on Jamies ideas
Glenn Murphey, Crew Chief
Owner Crew Chief Services The Pinnacle of Excellence, Contract Crew Services for the racing community.
Soon to be back in the club racing scene for good



#12
Posted 07-13-2012 02:24 PM

Found the problem - the lower differential spacer was broken that is between the diff and PPF. Also, the shoulder bolt that goes through the spacer was in place, but it was the wrong bolt and the metal locating bushing was not there.
Seneca Motorsports
#13
Posted 07-13-2012 04:54 PM

Found the problem - the lower differential spacer was broken that is between the diff and PPF. Also, the shoulder bolt that goes through the spacer was in place, but it was the wrong bolt and the metal locating bushing was not there.
And that fixed it??


#14
Posted 07-13-2012 04:59 PM

#15
Posted 07-13-2012 08:49 PM

#16
Posted 07-13-2012 09:01 PM

Yeah Kent, imagine that.
I just wouldn't have thought that would have any affect on the rear suspension geometry.


#17
Posted 07-14-2012 04:59 AM

#18
Posted 07-15-2012 09:27 PM

Kent, I don't get it either. I thought the problem as due to a changing toe condition. As soon as I tightened up the PPF to diff, the problem stopped.
Seneca Motorsports
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