NASA rack shims
#1
Posted 01-24-2011 01:15 PM
If not, does anyone have NA subframe that they could measure for me. I need the dimensions of rack mounting surface and bolt hole location (relative to the shim dimensions and bolt center to center).
William Keeling
#2
Posted 01-24-2011 03:57 PM
Does anyone sell rack shims yet?
If not, does anyone have NA subframe that they could measure for me. I need the dimensions of rack mounting surface and bolt hole location (relative to the shim dimensions and bolt center to center).
Wilie:
I have a NA sub frame I can measure, but I'm unsure exactly what to measure. Are you asking for the hole spacing, the distance center to center of them or what? Also, can you enlighten me as to what the shimming modification is and what it accomplishes? Thanks.
Rick
2009, 2010 & 2011 SCCA Great Lakes Div. Reg. SM Champ
2006, 2009, 2010 & 2011 Cincy SCCA Reg. Driver of the year
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#3
Posted 01-24-2011 04:37 PM
all -- the hole spacing (center to center), how big I should make the shim (the size of the flat of the subframe) and the location of the holes in the shim (the size of the flat of the subframe)Wilie:
I have a NA sub frame I can measure, but I'm unsure exactly what to measure. Are you asking for the hole spacing, the distance center to center of them or what? Also, can you enlighten me as to what the shimming modification is and what it accomplishes? Thanks.
Rick
William Keeling
#4
Posted 01-25-2011 08:00 AM
all -- the hole spacing (center to center), how big I should make the shim (the size of the flat of the subframe) and the location of the holes in the shim (the size of the flat of the subframe)
Willie:
I'll try to measure it tonight.
Anyone out there who can explain the rack shimming idea and what it accomplishes? I am assumimg that if the rack is elevated (relative to it's current relationship to the sub frame) that toe out under hard braking is lessened? Is that the goal?
Rick
2009, 2010 & 2011 SCCA Great Lakes Div. Reg. SM Champ
2006, 2009, 2010 & 2011 Cincy SCCA Reg. Driver of the year
Powered by: Stewart Engines
Set up by: RAFT Motorsports
SM: The safest race car in the world. It can just
barely kill you.
#5
Posted 01-25-2011 08:20 AM
Willie:
I'll try to measure it tonight.
Anyone out there who can explain the rack shimming idea and what it accomplishes? I am assumimg that if the rack is elevated (relative to it's current relationship to the sub frame) that toe out under hard braking is lessened? Is that the goal?
Rick
It fixes the bump-steer issue. At rest you want your tie-rods parallel to the ground not at a sharp angle like they are in 'most' SM's. The r package tie rod ends help but this is the better solution.
#6
Posted 01-25-2011 08:38 AM
#7
Posted 01-25-2011 10:14 AM
It fixes the bump-steer issue. At rest you want your tie-rods parallel to the ground not at a sharp angle like they are in 'most' SM's. The r package tie rod ends help but this is the better solution.
Colin:
Does anyone sell a ready to use shim kit?
Rick
2009, 2010 & 2011 SCCA Great Lakes Div. Reg. SM Champ
2006, 2009, 2010 & 2011 Cincy SCCA Reg. Driver of the year
Powered by: Stewart Engines
Set up by: RAFT Motorsports
SM: The safest race car in the world. It can just
barely kill you.
#8
Posted 01-25-2011 12:51 PM
If you were to make a pad 1 inch wide by 4 1/8 inch long with one hole 1/2 inch from one end & the hole centers 3 1/8 inch you would be in fat city. Make the holes 7/16 inch diameter to cover any error I made in measuring the hole centers.
For my 2 cents worth Longacre has a great article on bump steer including an illustration.
- Qik Nip likes this
#9
Posted 01-25-2011 01:24 PM
Willie, put my boots on, shoveled my way behind the garage, sweep the snow off the 1990 front subframe & measured the power steering threaded mounting hole locations.
If you were to make a pad 1 inch wide by 4 1/8 inch long with one hole 1/2 inch from one end & the hole centers 3 1/8 inch you would be in fat city. Make the holes 7/16 inch diameter to cover any error I made in measuring the hole centers.
For my 2 cents worth Longacre has a great article on bump steer including an illustration.
Anybody got a feel for the thickness to use for the pad?
Rick
2009, 2010 & 2011 SCCA Great Lakes Div. Reg. SM Champ
2006, 2009, 2010 & 2011 Cincy SCCA Reg. Driver of the year
Powered by: Stewart Engines
Set up by: RAFT Motorsports
SM: The safest race car in the world. It can just
barely kill you.
#10
Posted 01-25-2011 01:54 PM
For my 2 cents worth Longacre has a great article on bump steer including an illustration.
David:
Thanks for the Longacre tip. It explains everthing!
Rick
2009, 2010 & 2011 SCCA Great Lakes Div. Reg. SM Champ
2006, 2009, 2010 & 2011 Cincy SCCA Reg. Driver of the year
Powered by: Stewart Engines
Set up by: RAFT Motorsports
SM: The safest race car in the world. It can just
barely kill you.
#11
Posted 04-16-2011 09:07 AM
#12
Posted 04-19-2011 11:25 AM
Is anyone selling a shim kit yet?
Don't waste your money. Remove one of the collars that secure the rack to the sub-frame and use it to space the holes you need to drill in the 1/4" thick by 1" wide strap steel. Use two layers (and get four longer bolts).
Rick
2009, 2010 & 2011 SCCA Great Lakes Div. Reg. SM Champ
2006, 2009, 2010 & 2011 Cincy SCCA Reg. Driver of the year
Powered by: Stewart Engines
Set up by: RAFT Motorsports
SM: The safest race car in the world. It can just
barely kill you.
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