
Build or Buy?
#21
Posted 10-22-2012 09:16 AM

For anyone interested in building their own car keep this in mind
Cost of donor car realisticly is $4k with a top. Maybe luck will find you. But these $1500 cars usually need more work just to get them to the track.
Using my SM in a box add $5500
Add misc hardware and STUFF you will need for another $500 if all the hardparts are usable.
So consider your financial budget
We build a car in about 80 hours. The typical home builder will take at least 300 hours. If you work every night for 3 hours and 10 hours Saturday and Sunday you only get 35 hours a week. SO it will take 8-10 weeks of that schedule to complete the car. Cut that schedule to a much more realistic 2 hours 3 nites a week and 8 hours over the course of a weekend and it becomes a 20 week project. Real life does get in the way on a regular basis. From today to spring driver school is about 24 weeks. Now consider your time budget.
I have put all this into the book. Over 900 copies sold so far. THANK YOU!
I will be putting several cars up for sale next month. Gotta unload from Blackhawk and hit the road for VIR on Thursday.
Dave
Dave Wheeler
Advanced Autosports, the nations most complete Spec Miata shop
Author, Spec Miata Constructors Guide, version 1 and 2.0
Building Championship winning cars since 1995
4 time Central Division Spec Miata Champion car builder 2012-2013-2014-2017
Back to Back June Sprints Spec Miata 1-2 finishes 2016 and 2017
5 time June Sprints winner in Mazda's
6 Time Northern Conference Champion Car Builder
2014 SCCA Majors National point Champion car builder
2014 SCCA Runoffs winner, T4 (Bender)
2014 Central Division Champion, ITS (Wheeler)
2013 Thunderhill 25 hour winning crew chief
2007 June Sprints winner, (GT1, Mohrhauser)
Over 200 race wins and counting.
www.advanced-autosports.com
dave@advanced-autosports.com
608-313-1230





#22
Posted 10-22-2012 11:12 AM

After you visit Dave or visit with other car owners please feel free to pm me for 2nd, 3rd & 4th refreshers/looks as I'm in Wauwatosa. I have a 1991 new build. 3-4 times to the track, all bright & shinny. Including new sub-frames/control arms.
There is a guy who posts from Frankland building a new car, IIRM going to do the spring school.
David



#23
Posted 10-22-2012 08:17 PM

I only did one HPDE event this year as I spent most of my time and money elsewhere this summer. As of right now my goal is to spend 2013 getting a spec car sorted out and get licensed. I'm 95% sure I'll be building mine in the garage this winter with a little help from Dave.
-Matt
#24
Posted 10-23-2012 08:23 AM

Feel free to give me a call or shoot me an email (608) three nine three 0142 roy@datatoys.com
#25
Posted 10-23-2012 12:26 PM

What do you mean new build? Did you build the car yourself?
-Matt
Matt, yes, striped the 1990 1.6 car, everything except the cage & repaint the interior. Pat Spandenberg from Butler @ Rod & Competition Specialties did the cage to my thoughts. Dave Wheeler of Beloit also does an excelent job. I bought some stuff from Dave & he always has advice to keep us out of trouble. Dave's wife Ann is a wounderful cheif. Stuff that tastes as good as her's isn't done by an every day cook. Pat is full time, has done several Miata cages & many full out build of drag cars frames & cages. A friend repainted the interior.
And 3-4 times to the track as in 3-4 race events? Where did you do them? -Matt
Finished the car for 2011, hadn't raced in 5 years, (previously raced a 1985 rotary RX7 starting in Spec 7 then converting the car to an ITA car) did a refresher school at the Farm, then a high speed day at the Farm then the regional in the fall at the Farm. Did the regional ths past spring at the Farm, was going to do the fall race at the Farm a couple weeks ago except as I watched the weather the weather won & I stayed home.



#26
Posted 10-23-2012 09:17 PM

I am assuming you are talking about the green 91 that I have for sale. If you want to stop by and look at it, I don't mid giving you my $0.02 on the issue. I've built two spec miatas from the ground up, and this one was purchased.
Feel free to give me a call or shoot me an email (608) three nine three 0142 roy@datatoys.com
I was using yours as an example. My plan is to head out to Beloit next week to take a look at what Dave has and I will go from there. Thanks!
#27
Posted 10-24-2012 09:27 AM

I was using yours as an example. My plan is to head out to Beloit next week to take a look at what Dave has and I will go from there. Thanks!
Sounds good. Let me know if you are interested or want some additional building advice locally.
Cheers,
Roy
#28
Posted 10-25-2012 09:40 PM

Luckily his shop isn't too far away, and at a minimum I'll be picking up his book.
Thanks for the advice, and hopefully soon I'll be documenting my build and/or showing my car!
#29
Posted 10-25-2012 09:49 PM

Luckily his shop isn't too far away, and at a minimum I'll be picking up his book.
While your at Dave's place sit in some seats in his show room & sit in some seats in his/or customer cars.



#30
Posted 10-25-2012 11:01 PM

While your at Dave's place sit in some seats in his show room & sit in some seats in his/or customer cars.
What should I be looking for between the two?
#31
Posted 10-26-2012 08:24 AM

What should I be looking for between the two?
Different size seats as to how your body fits. Showroom will be loose on the flood. May be same or different brand seats in cars. In car you'll get a feel to the pedals, steering wheel, roll cage, side protection, an all around situational sence. If you taller you'll find the seat most likely needs to be layed back/back upright part of seat with top of seat tilted rearward more than for a shorter person. STAY AWAY from oval track seats where the rib portection wraps around your ribs. If your buying a seat, buy a road race type protection seat. Question Dave, he'll show/tell you the difference. IMHJ a good all around seat is an Ultra Shield Pro road race seat (aluminum), which Dave has. He has other higher quality seats (plastic/carbon fiber). If this is your first racing seat, let the differences sink in before you buy.
I'm 6 foot & 210 pounds, your welcome to sit, feel & talk.



#32
Posted 10-26-2012 09:51 AM

This is one of the main reasons that I want to go check things out, to see what to get before I just start ordering a bunch of parts. I'm slightly concerned about the seat to be honest with you as I'm just under 5'10 and about 145. I'm sure I'll find something but I worry that my options will be limited.
#33
Posted 10-26-2012 01:19 PM

^For some reason I think I misread your post. I for some reason thought that you were comparing his showroom cars to the cars in the shop, not just mentioning to look at all of the different setups to find what I like/dislike.
This is one of the main reasons that I want to go check things out, to see what to get before I just start ordering a bunch of parts. I'm slightly concerned about the seat to be honest with you as I'm just under 5'10 and about 145. I'm sure I'll find something but I worry that my options will be limited.
Communication by typing is dificult at best. I thought you meant seat in the show room loose/pick em up vs seats installed in cars.
MAN, don't worry about things at his point in the game. Take plenty of time at the get-go so you buy correct the first time. It's like the old saying measure twice cut once.
Were all here to support you.



1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users