42 replies to this topic

[DrDomm]

Dave, where do you get SKF hubs?

 

Jim, what is a higher quality ball?

 

Any thoughts on Koyo?  I have them on the front now.  I'm assuming they were straight from Mazda when the car they came off of was new.  I believe they have 1 more ball than the Timkens.  FWIW.  They also had that nice white grease in them when I disassembled them.

[AW33COM]

Help me out a bit here with Timken fronts lasting thousands of miles. This is something most are not aware of including me.

 

For the front, buy Timken units (not much will be Timken there, SKF bearing possible ) and install them without repacking.  That's the magic.  Mine did almost 3000 miles without repacking.  No play in them.  Timken btw, is not a bearing company.  It's a repacking/shipping company.  They find good quality products, package them together and ship them to you. 

 

My rear SKFs are also very close to 3000 miles without any play.  I never repack front or rear.  This winter I'll simply buy new bearings and exchange.

 

I believe Koyos are some of the best bearings around, but they are impossible to get in the states in small quantities, so you have to buy them from Mazda and pay more.

 

 

Another note...If a hub has the smallest amount of play when
checked(assuming nut is torqued)no way is this re-packable correct? Am I
wrong in thinking once a bearing/hub becomes loose/wobbly its done??

I know of a front running team that repacks loose bearings and keeps them running.  According to them, the repacking stops them from getting worse.  I personally would not do it. 

 

Repack before installation with better quality Grease like VC-2.

I also use CV-2, but I'm not so convinced any more.  There was a guy on this forum saying the white grease that comes with your bearings is the best grease ever made, but you can't buy it.  Not sure if it's true, but I would try it since it does work on my "factory" stuff.

 

Whoever you talk to about bearings you're going to get a different answer.  Do what works for you.  Do not use China bearings though.  There is a guy on Bob Is The Oil Guy website that knows his stuff when it comes to bearings, I'm sure he could answer some of the more difficult questions. 

[Jim Drago]

Jim, what is a higher quality ball?

The balls come in different grades, the ones that come in all the hubs( even OEM) are low grade.
The higher the grade, the more round, smooth and closer to size they are.

[Bruce Wilson]

ROTFL

 

they certainly do...

[Bruce Wilson]

Edited your way out of that one

[dfuser]

The SKF fronts are about $120/each Rears $30/each and based on feedback here would be the better options, maybe?

[RazerX]

The SKF fronts are about $120/each Rears $30/each and based on feedback here would be the better options, maybe?

 

 

So is a SKF a whole a hub?  or just the balls?  if it is a whole bearing does include pressing out the outter races from the hub?  Or is a whole bearing in this case the cages, inner races and balls?

[Jim Drago]

fronts are complete hubs, rears are bearings that need to be pressed in

[Bench Racer]

  if it is a whole bearing does include pressing out the outter races from the hub?

The outter race is machined into the hub, then induction hardned. Nothing to press in or out.

[RazerX]

So is there a source for the SKF bearing/hubs?  Is the Mazdaspeed sourced ones Koyos?

[AW33COM]

Mazda used and uses Koyo bearings.  SKF bearings you buy on RockAuto.  Units sold on this site use Koyos I believe. 

[RazerX]

I noticed that there were not non ABS SKF options do those who use SKF just use the ABS version?  

 

Just curious if others have used BECK/ARNLEY, Raybestos, or MOOG/NATIONAL?  Or if they are just rebrands of other products.  

[chris haldeman]

Abs version is fine. The ring can be removed with a hammer

[chris haldeman]

Fwiw I use and sell timken bearings rebuilt and modified.

[Sphinx]

I thought I'd read at some point that the rear bearings are too hard to rebuild/replace and that they should be tossed once play is detected.  Is that not correct?

[chris haldeman]

Yes if there is play in the rear the bearing is ruined and must be replaced

[MPR22]

[quote name="Sphinx" post="54155" timestamp="1382645575"]I thought I'd read at some point that the rear bearings are too hard to rebuild/replace and that they should be tossed once play is detected.  Is that not correct?[

They are easy to change the grease before you install, once installed one of the races usually quasi fuses to the hub and needs to be cut off, requiring a new bearing.

[HLF]

Okay, a little more info.  When I grab the tire (after jacking that corner up) and try to find play in the bearings there is none. 

 

There is still resistance.

 

I think I am going to put this on the back burner while I sort out my head issue. 

[Johnny D]

No Play, bearings are fine.

Resistance, IYO, maybe you need to be repacked again or with better grease, less or both.

A search here may find something.

Also Drago has some in the classified.

J~

[FTodaro]

Okay, a little more info.  When I grab the tire (after jacking that corner up) and try to find play in the bearings there is none. 
 
There is still resistance.
 
I think I am going to put this on the back burner while I sort out my head issue.

A bearing is bad if:
There is play in the bearing or
Does not roll smoothly, has a grinding or rough spot., or
Bought it on eBay