Open brake fluid
#1
Posted 02-24-2011 02:35 PM
Just about to get the car ready for the season. I am going to bleed to brakes and put fresh fluid in (I use super blue). I have a container or two that I have opened and used. I have heard that I shouldn't use fluid that is from an open container after sitting for a while. Is this true? Do I need to buy brand new, sealed in the container, fluid? Thanks!
Scott
#2
Posted 02-24-2011 02:46 PM
#3
Posted 02-24-2011 02:52 PM
#4
Posted 02-24-2011 04:36 PM
Opened probably in October. Not sure if it's in my trailer or in my garage. Good point though. Ill buy new. Just sucks that so much of it goes to waste.
No need to waste it. Use it on a street car, it's bound to be 10X better than what is in most street cars. Or give it away to a DE driver. Lot's of alternatives to throwing it in the trash and ending up in our driking water
#5
Posted 02-25-2011 08:57 AM
#6
Posted 02-25-2011 09:10 AM
One alternative would be to dump it in the recycling tank next time you are at the track. That way it doesn't booger up anyone's brakes and it doesn't end up in the ground water.Lot's of alternatives to throwing it in the trash and ending up in our driking water
Steve DeVinney
Retired mediocre driver
#7
Posted 02-25-2011 09:14 AM
You should label any brake fluid bottle with a Sharpie on he day you open it. After 30 days it is not for use in a racecar. Imagine how I feel with a half bottle of SRF at $85 per bottle!!!!!!
Dave
Dave Wheeler
Advanced Autosports, the nations most complete Spec Miata shop
Author, Spec Miata Constructors Guide, version 1 and 2.0
Building Championship winning cars since 1995
4 time Central Division Spec Miata Champion car builder 2012-2013-2014-2017
Back to Back June Sprints Spec Miata 1-2 finishes 2016 and 2017
5 time June Sprints winner in Mazda's
6 Time Northern Conference Champion Car Builder
2014 SCCA Majors National point Champion car builder
2014 SCCA Runoffs winner, T4 (Bender)
2014 Central Division Champion, ITS (Wheeler)
2013 Thunderhill 25 hour winning crew chief
2007 June Sprints winner, (GT1, Mohrhauser)
Over 200 race wins and counting.
www.advanced-autosports.com
dave@advanced-autosports.com
608-313-1230
#8
Posted 02-25-2011 09:16 AM
http://www.westpennm...arison_List.pdf
#9
Posted 02-25-2011 10:00 AM
I know it probably depends on pads, track, weather, and style of driving. But how hot do our brakes get?
#10
Posted 02-25-2011 10:21 AM
One alternative would be to dump it in the recycling tank next time you are at the track. That way it doesn't booger up anyone's brakes and it doesn't end up in the ground water.
I buy a one-gallon metal paint can at the hardware store. All unwanted brake fluid goes into that can. When it's full it goes to the recycling center.
#11
Posted 02-25-2011 10:23 AM
But SRF's Wet boiling point is 70F higher than the LMS's Dry BP.This is one of the reasons that I use and recomend the Castrol LMA fluid for use in SM. Small containers, so you can easily empty the bottle in one bleed. And cheap, so you don't feel bad throwing it away.
You should label any brake fluid bottle with a Sharpie on he day you open it. After 30 days it is not for use in a racecar. Imagine how I feel with a half bottle of SRF at $85 per bottle!!!!!!
Dave
Chris
Happiness is a dry martini and a good woman ... or a bad woman.
- George Burns
#12
Posted 02-25-2011 10:28 AM
Record cold here in the Northwest with snow on the ground. Isn't spring right around the corner?
Bill
#13
Posted 02-25-2011 12:44 PM
If LMA can stand up to Blackhawk Farms, it will work at all the tracks that are easy on brakes.
Wet boiling point is not important, we should never have wet fluid in a racecar
Dave Wheeler
Advanced Autosports, the nations most complete Spec Miata shop
Author, Spec Miata Constructors Guide, version 1 and 2.0
Building Championship winning cars since 1995
4 time Central Division Spec Miata Champion car builder 2012-2013-2014-2017
Back to Back June Sprints Spec Miata 1-2 finishes 2016 and 2017
5 time June Sprints winner in Mazda's
6 Time Northern Conference Champion Car Builder
2014 SCCA Majors National point Champion car builder
2014 SCCA Runoffs winner, T4 (Bender)
2014 Central Division Champion, ITS (Wheeler)
2013 Thunderhill 25 hour winning crew chief
2007 June Sprints winner, (GT1, Mohrhauser)
Over 200 race wins and counting.
www.advanced-autosports.com
dave@advanced-autosports.com
608-313-1230
#14
Posted 02-25-2011 12:51 PM
As much as I would prefer you bought LMA from your friendly Miata store. Most national chain auto parts stores can order LMA. They may want you to buy a case, but it is pretty cheap.
If LMA can stand up to Blackhawk Farms, it will work at all the tracks that are easy on brakes.
Wet boiling point is not important, we should never have wet fluid in a racecar
You know I love my friendly Miata store. You got any deals on a case of that stuff? Like free shipping perhaps? Got two cars to feed now.....
#15
Posted 02-25-2011 01:24 PM
-Cy
Supported by LTD Racing
2011 + 2013 NER STU Champion
#16
Posted 02-25-2011 02:05 PM
Dave your not making sense on this point. The boiling point is the important factor in a racecar's brake fluid. With the following Dry/Wet boiling points Castrol SRF 590F/518F and LMA 446F/311F; SRF is superior even after it has "gone bad". Don't get me wrong I'm not defending a product I use, because I don't use SRF, but I have considered it.Wet boiling point is not important, we should never have wet fluid in a racecar
Chris
Happiness is a dry martini and a good woman ... or a bad woman.
- George Burns
#17
Posted 02-25-2011 02:09 PM
Boy this stuff is pricey too. Here ya go:Can anyone recommend where to source the paint that changes color with heat? I'm doing some testing with rear pads this spring and will need to monitor how hot the rotors are getting so that I can match a pad's temp range.
http://www.pegasusau....asp?RecID=4974
Chris
Happiness is a dry martini and a good woman ... or a bad woman.
- George Burns
#18
Posted 02-25-2011 05:30 PM
Kurtis
#19
Posted 02-27-2011 06:25 PM
#20
Posted 02-27-2011 11:10 PM
Dave your not making sense on this point.
Dave is more than capable of speaking for himself but I take the point that one shouldn't let the brake system get to the point where there is 3% water. Or the amount present to be considered a "wet" point.
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