9 replies to this topic

[BoneHead]

OK, It seems that my right front wheel hub needs to be replaced. Thankfully after a few minutes research I discovered this is a pretty straight forward job. 

However, I have a question.

 

What are the differences in the wheel hubs themselves? Looking at trying to get this done before the rally on Sunday, so that means local purchase. Prices seem to vary from $40 to over $200. Other than one made to a higher standard and would outlast the other (I would assume anyway), what are the differences? Is there a reason NOT to go with the cheaper options?

[FTodaro]

BH there has been a lot of discussion lately about Hubs, hub brands, and hub failures. Look at those threads for some additional information. First the easy part of your question. Like anything, you get what you pay for. there is no way a 45.00 hub is any good. the ebay hubs may not last a session. the price of a good hub should run about 120 to 150 per hub and more if you have long studs put into it. 200 for an OEM hub sounds high. I would go to a good local parts house and NTN hub is pretty std stuff.

 

If you have the know how you might want to repack it with better grease, there is a video out there that shows you how.

 

Good luck.

[Bench Racer]

 

If you have the know how you might want to repack it with better grease, there is a video out there that shows you how.

 

Good luck.

On the site page go to DownLoads heading, click, Repacking_Hubs.Doc1.1, click, green box DownLoad, click, green box DownLoad, click, Repack Hubs Doc, click.

[Jim Drago]

I was thinking of this.. I dont fail hubs any more often on the STL car than I do SM?  The STL car is 2635, substantially faster and on a bigger and grippier A compoound Hoosier tires. One would think if the tires and speed were causing these hub failures, I would see them exponetially in the STL car and I am not?

 

Jim

[davew]

Jim,

STOP THINKING,

If SCCA finds out that you have been thinking they will immediately kick you off the CRB (maybe a good thing !!!) and strip you of both Championships. There is no thinking allowed in SCCA!!!!!!!

 

 

In all seriousness, I find this fact very interesting. I have no comment, but it makes you wonder............

 

Dave

[Johnny D]

I was thinking of this.. I dont fail hubs any more often on the STL car than I do SM?  The STL car is 2635, substantially faster and on a bigger and grippier A compoound Hoosier tires. One would think if the tires and speed were causing these hub failures, I would see them exponetially in the STL car and I am not?

 

Jim

 

Interesting.

If you're maxing the hub to the point of failure, would the failure rate be linear between SM and STL or Lbs/G load after a period of time is all it's got?

Just asking.

Hope we solve this.

J~

[RazerX]

Do NOT buy the cheap ones.  I have never used them but in the 25 hour race car i was driving had 3, yes 3, RF hub failures, it cost us a better podium finish.

 

there was a discussion about brands/sources on another thread about a year ago.  There are those that sell 'improved' hubs here on the forum and from Mazdaspeed.   

[Bench Racer]

Was at a race shop the better part of the afternoon. We (several guys) discussed front wheel bearing failure or lack of front wheel bearing failure. It is quite amazing when one gets outside the box the interesting discussion that takes place. Can't talk about the discussion here because I haven't serviced thousands of said cars.

[Chuck Caldwell]

Could it be as simple as preloading the bearings like we all use to back in the day everytime we repacked bearings or changed brake rotors? As Mike Novak stated in another post, he had one go bad at Mid-O. when I changed it, I torqued it to 100 N-m, spun it, loosened it up then torqued to spec. No issues yet with it. Just a thought...

[AW33COM]

I torqued it to 100 N-m, spun it, loosened it up then torqued to spec. No issues yet with it. Just a thought...

 

 

No.  The design of this bearing does not make a difference if you double, tipple torque it, or go "back/forward" with torque/or degree turn.  There is nothing there to regulate on a single nut.

If it's a Koyo or SKF bearing, torque according to the manual.