#1
Posted 06-06-2014 09:56 AM
#2
Posted 06-06-2014 10:17 AM
BH there has been a lot of discussion lately about Hubs, hub brands, and hub failures. Look at those threads for some additional information. First the easy part of your question. Like anything, you get what you pay for. there is no way a 45.00 hub is any good. the ebay hubs may not last a session. the price of a good hub should run about 120 to 150 per hub and more if you have long studs put into it. 200 for an OEM hub sounds high. I would go to a good local parts house and NTN hub is pretty std stuff.
If you have the know how you might want to repack it with better grease, there is a video out there that shows you how.
Good luck.
Frank
TnT Racing
SCCA Ohio Valley Region
#3
Posted 06-06-2014 10:54 AM
If you have the know how you might want to repack it with better grease, there is a video out there that shows you how.
Good luck.
On the site page go to DownLoads heading, click, Repacking_Hubs.Doc1.1, click, green box DownLoad, click, green box DownLoad, click, Repack Hubs Doc, click.
#4
Posted 06-06-2014 12:04 PM
I was thinking of this.. I dont fail hubs any more often on the STL car than I do SM? The STL car is 2635, substantially faster and on a bigger and grippier A compoound Hoosier tires. One would think if the tires and speed were causing these hub failures, I would see them exponetially in the STL car and I am not?
Jim
East Street Auto Parts
Jim@Eaststreet.com
800 700 9080
#5
Posted 06-06-2014 12:30 PM
Jim,
STOP THINKING,
If SCCA finds out that you have been thinking they will immediately kick you off the CRB (maybe a good thing !!!) and strip you of both Championships. There is no thinking allowed in SCCA!!!!!!!
In all seriousness, I find this fact very interesting. I have no comment, but it makes you wonder............
Dave
- FTodaro likes this
Dave Wheeler
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2014 Central Division Champion, ITS (Wheeler)
2013 Thunderhill 25 hour winning crew chief
2007 June Sprints winner, (GT1, Mohrhauser)
Over 200 race wins and counting.
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#6
Posted 06-06-2014 12:41 PM
I was thinking of this.. I dont fail hubs any more often on the STL car than I do SM? The STL car is 2635, substantially faster and on a bigger and grippier A compoound Hoosier tires. One would think if the tires and speed were causing these hub failures, I would see them exponetially in the STL car and I am not?
Jim
Interesting.
If you're maxing the hub to the point of failure, would the failure rate be linear between SM and STL or Lbs/G load after a period of time is all it's got?
Just asking.
Hope we solve this.
J~
#7
Posted 06-06-2014 12:43 PM
Do NOT buy the cheap ones. I have never used them but in the 25 hour race car i was driving had 3, yes 3, RF hub failures, it cost us a better podium finish.
there was a discussion about brands/sources on another thread about a year ago. There are those that sell 'improved' hubs here on the forum and from Mazdaspeed.
- Speed
#8
Posted 06-06-2014 05:20 PM
Was at a race shop the better part of the afternoon. We (several guys) discussed front wheel bearing failure or lack of front wheel bearing failure. It is quite amazing when one gets outside the box the interesting discussion that takes place. Can't talk about the discussion here because I haven't serviced thousands of said cars.
#9
Posted 06-06-2014 08:00 PM
Could it be as simple as preloading the bearings like we all use to back in the day everytime we repacked bearings or changed brake rotors? As Mike Novak stated in another post, he had one go bad at Mid-O. when I changed it, I torqued it to 100 N-m, spun it, loosened it up then torqued to spec. No issues yet with it. Just a thought...
#10
Posted 06-07-2014 09:38 AM
I torqued it to 100 N-m, spun it, loosened it up then torqued to spec. No issues yet with it. Just a thought...
No. The design of this bearing does not make a difference if you double, tipple torque it, or go "back/forward" with torque/or degree turn. There is nothing there to regulate on a single nut.
If it's a Koyo or SKF bearing, torque according to the manual.
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