23 replies to this topic

[jman68]

Hello everyone,

I am seriously considering trying my hand at Spec Miata but have EXTREMELY limited knowledge in the area. I was recently invited to participate in a track day at Laguna Seca using my friends 2014 Mini GP and really enjoyed it. I am an F1 enthusiast and play a ton of Forza on the X-box but that is about the extent of my racing experience.

It's great to see that you can race on a budget in SM but I'd really like to know what that budget truly is. I know you can pick up a car for as little as $7000 (in questionable condition of course), but I'd like to find out from the experienced members of this forum if they could estimate what it would cost to actually get started in SM starting from scratch. We're talking car, trailer, helmet, race suit and gloves, spares, etc. Additionally, an annual cost to actually operate a car for a season, such as fuel, tires, pain pills, psychiatrist visits, etc.

Realistically, the car would probably be used mostly for track days at high Plains Raceway here in Denver, but I'd like it to at least be somewhat competitive just in case I feel confident enough to actually race in SM.

Please know that any and all information/opinions on this will be greatly appreciated.

[James York]

Competitive will put you in an entirely different level of spending.  But the basics to get started:

 

Car:  Look in classifieds.  10-15K maybe for decent

Trailer: 2k for open (do you have a truck that can tow?  I assume so.

Gear:  say 2K for all

Spares:  depends on what you have a tendency to break.  Maybe 2K there too

 

Recurring expenses:  I spend about 2-3K per weekend.  That's towing fuel, entry fee, food, and tires.  Your cost maybe less.

 

Repairs:  Hopefuly none, but you better have a few thousand just in case.

 

Track days would be cheaper of course, and you may be able to find ways to cut some corners.  But whatever you do, don't skimp on safety.  Get a HANS, a good helmet and suit.

 

Then add this all up and multiply by about 1.3.  And maybe that is how much you will spend.

[ECOBRAP]

I am probably one of the most budgeted guys here on the West Coast so I'd love to give you some insight. I picked up my car for 8k, it's pretty beat up on the outside but is mechanically sound and came with tons of spares. This type of money will get you a mid pack car at best, but I haven't touched the thing since I bought it and got a podium finish two weeks ago. Even if you do find yourself mid pack, the most attractive thing about Spec Miata is that you will ALWAYS have someone to race against (video proof), and can engage in battles just as fun as the ones going on up front. The car was smogged/street legal, which allows me to drive it to and from the track. Because of this, I saved about 6-8k from not having to buy a tow vehicle and trailer. I am doing this in California, not sure how doable it is in Colorado with different inspections required but definitely look into a street legal race car as an option (just invest in some earplugs for the trip to the track  ). I am lucky enough to have a support vehicle bring my tools and spare wheels to the track, but if you buy a trailer hitch and small utility trailer you can make it a one man operation (this is done frequently and works out well for everyone I know that does it). Of course, there are pros to having a trailer that should be mentioned. If you get a critical mechanical failure or get in an accident, you may be stranded. I have addressed this by investing more in my AAA membership to be within towing distance of tracks or workshops (just get towed outside the race track and you shouldn't encounter an issue with AAA coverage?). This is just some info on logistics, but here is my specific cost breakdown on your best budget option for RACING (if you stick to track days, it will be less).

 

Startup Costs

Car - $8000

Hitch + Trailer - $500

Tent/Inflatable Mattress/ Sleeping Bag - $130 (edit: I live in California, you live in Colorado. you may turn into a popsicle if you choose this $ saving option)

Safety Gear - $1500 (estimate $500 suit, $500 HANS device, $300 helmet, $100 gloves, $100 shoes)

 

Operational Costs Per Race Weekend

Entry Fee - $350 (covers entire weekend)

Gas - $90 (24 gallons total - 18 on track, 6 getting to/from)

Tires - $267 (new set costs $800 divided by 3 race weekend lifespan)

Brakes - $85 (Pads cost $300, rotors cost $50. Divide by 4 race weekend lifespan)

Oil - $50 (engine oil lasts 2 race weekends, transmission and differential oil last longer but need to be replaced too)

Food - $50 (varies depending on stomach size   ) 

Total $900

 

 

 

So you are roughly looking at a 10k startup cost, and 8k season cost if you plan on doing the average 8 race weekends per year. Obviously, the less races and crashes you have the cheaper it is!  

 

Hope this was useful! Let me know if you have any other questions.

-Matt

[Brandon]

I'll bite (and not even do a "LMGTFY" response!).

Consider all numbers a very rough estimate & 2014 includes getting the wife in the left-side seat.

 

2009 - started with nothing (no tow vehicle, no trailer, no safety gear, no car)

• $12,500; 2005 Expedition w/85k miles
• $2,000; trailer
• $6500; Miata and the guy I bought it from gave me 12 RA1 tires (shaved to 3/32, used on double-weekends)
• $2000; safety gear (suit, shoes, gloves, Nomex, helmet, HANS)
• $1100; approximate car setup/seat & install/fluids/brake pads
• $300; safety gear maintenance (Shock Doctor bags, blower, Molecule)
• $2,200; 8x HPDE weekends
• $1,500; approximate fuel (tow & Miata), lodging, meals, tow maintenance

2010 - driver's school & racing

• $700; pre-season car prep (fluids, pads, setup)
• $950; 2x drivers school
• $1,800; approximate entry fees for 5 or 6 race weekends
• $1,500; approximate fuel (tow & Miata), lodging, meals, tow maintenance

2011 - racing

• $700; pre-season car prep (fluids, pads, setup)
• $2,000; approximate entry fees for 6 or 7 race weekends
• $1,500; approximate fuel (tow & Miata), lodging, meals, tow maintenance
• $600; trailer tire rack

2012 - racing

• $900; pre-season setup & car prep (fluids, 2x pads, setup)
• $700; trailer tires
• $900; 2-sets of R-888 tires (severely discounted)
• $1,500; approximate fuel (tow & Miata), lodging, meals, tow maintenance
• $2,000; approximate entry fees for 6 or 7 race weekends

2013 - racing

• $900; pre-season setup & car prep (fluids, 2x pads, setup)
• $1700; race tires (1x used set RR, 1x new set RR)
• $6500; Miata crash repair
• $900; approximate entry fees for 2 race weekends
• $1,000; approximate fuel (tow & Miata), lodging, meals, tow maintenance

2014 - racing & wife's school

• $1,100; pre-season setup & car prep (fluids, 2x pads, setup, custom seat bracket)
• $3,000; tow vehicle maintenance (new full exhaust & upper-engine remanufacturing)
• $1,000; new composite seat & belts
• $800; race tires (1x new set SM7)
• $2,500; approximate entry fees for school, 7 race weekends, & 2x HPDE
• $2,000; approximate fuel (tow & Miata), lodging, meals, tow maintenance

Reviewing these numbers just makes me cringe but by God it's an absolute blast to be able to participate in a hobby like this!!!

 

And I guess another summary is be sure you have the capital to get the seat time & maintain the equipment!  It's not cheap but well worth it!!

[LarryKing]

Now that you've presented the low end of the budget spectrum, tell Mr Jman what some of his competition spends.

[Danny Steyn]

At the pointy end of the field there are drivers spending over $50k per season for sure!!! Some might be north of that. Depends on travel distance, how often they sticker up (and thank Hoosier for the SM7 as my tire spend this year is less than 50% of what I spent in 2013) and many other factors. Crashing adds big $$$ to the season cost. Dont ask me how I know!!!

[Kevin B]

Now that you've presented the low end of the budget spectrum, tell Mr Jman what some of his competition spends.

 

I'm on the lower end of the budget spectrum too, running SAARC and ECRs, roughly 6-8 race weekends per season in the southeast.  Track time seems to be more expensive than quoted above but I sign up for every stint possible during a weekend. Otherwise, the numbers seem spot on but I built a car in the first year, so roughly doubled initial car costs over Brandon's.  I was initially blind to the cost realities in that respect but I did have the vision in the beginning to name our "team" Separate Checkbook Racing.

 

I'll admit, though, it's still the best drug I've ever purchased and I don't regret my addiction...

[LarryKing]

Retirement funds are overrated. Get one of these http://mazdaracers.c...onal-champions/

 

It's unfortunate Jman lives in Denver and not the SE. The ECR series is the best bargain in club racing.

[Todd Green]

Safety Gear - $1500 (estimate $500 suit, $500 HANS device, $300 helmet, $100 gloves, $100 shoes)

 

Operational Costs Per Race Weekend

Tires - $267 (new set costs $800 divided by 3 race weekend lifespan)

I'd also get Nomex undergarments so add a few hundred.  You may also want to consider using the front runners' take-off tires while you are starting out.  Generally you can get them for 25-50% of their original cost.  You'll have to factor in additional cost for more frequent mounting unless you can do it yourself or become friends with someone who can.

[Danny Steyn]

 The ECR series is the best bargain in club racing.

 

S. A. Crebleu - Couldn't agree with you more. Raced every ECR I could get to in 2008, 2009, best value for money, most seat time and best way to learn a track as with 50+ laps you can try so many things and go back to the data and see what worked. Still race them today whenever they are part of a race weekend than I am racing. 

 

Jman68 - With regard to car, buy a sorted car. Don't try and build it on your own. It could take you years  to get the car the level that a sorted car would start you off in. 

[Bench Racer]

Retirement funds are overrated. Get o

You struck a funny bone. One day one of my sons was reading an entry form for a race. He questioned who my SIF sponsor was. And I told him, Sons Inheritance Fund.  

 

jman68, while folks are recomending a HANS device, along with a HANS device a halo seat is required. A HANS device is a required head and neck restraint device by the SCCA. A HANS device does not reduce lateral lodas nearly as good as other decives on the market which do not require a halo seat.

As an example, search lateral load reduction for a HANS and for a NecksGen.

[LarryKing]

 

NecksGen

 

Any conflict of interest disclosure?

[Bench Racer]

 

Any conflict of interest disclosure?

Denny, Denny, Hans sued DeFnder and DeFnder became NecksGen improved. Would you say HANS (with support from SFI) attempted a monopoly within the head and neck restraint industry. And that's not a question. 

[Brandon]

I can't say "do as I say, not as I do" but getting a standard aluminum seat in conjunction with a right-side net will mitigate a lot of the potential injuries that Bench & Mr. Crebleu are debating.

This is what I did for the longest time until 2014 when we went composite w/HR for the seat.  I felt safe & comfortable with that first setup and I imagine you will too.

 

Not knowing your height one can only presume you'll find your noggin on the upper tubes of the cage should an impact come from the left....that was the case for me in particular.

[Alberto]

Don't scrimp on safety equipment like the seat and HNR.  A decent halo seat can be found for somewhere around 700-1,000 last time I checked 4 years ago.  After watching a few people brake ribs with a standard aluminum seat and nets, I'd wager the seat is cheap insurance.

 

I bought a cheap, multi layer suit (Pyrotect?) for somewhere around 400-500 and a Bell helmet for ~300 gloves $50, shoes $100, socks 20.  I built my car and that cost me somewhere around $10-12k.  I bought a good truck for $7k and rented a trailer from Uhaul the first 3 years until a friend sold me his enclosed trailer for a good price.  I think my costs have been similar to Brandon and topgear above.  RA1 tires tend to last me about a full season when I start them at 4/32nds shave.  Front brakes last a full season.  Rear brakes last about a season and a half.

 

I use a DefNder fwiw.  I found it more comfy than a HANS device and it was a wee bit cheaper. 

 

 

If you get a car that has a title and can be registered, you can legitimately drive the car to the race track.  There are 4-5 guys in SFR SCCA that do that regularly. 

 

I barely have any spares.  Haven't really needed them thankfully. 

[jman68]

Thank you to all of you who took the time to reply.  The information all of you have provided is invaluable and really shows the great sense of community that SM has.  I really appreciate it.

 

That being said, now I have a shit ton more questions...

 

Mainly:

 

According to the NASA website regarding SM, the only tires permitted are Toyo Proxes, yet Danny Steyn mentions using Hooziers.  I'd have to assume that he's refering to SCCA sanctioned races (I can't seem to find their specific rule book online).  Additionally, in watching numerous Youtube videos of SM, there is reference to different catagories such as ITR, ITS, FP, ITL, STA, etc.  I guess what I'm trying to figure out is, how many catagories can you race a spec Miata in, and, are the cars easily interchangable between SCCA and NASA specs.  Also, is one sanctioning body preferable to the other.

 

Secondly, I didn't see any mention of insurance in any of the replys.  When I was at that track day in Monterey, I specifically purchased what was basically catastrophic insurance just in case I did something stupid and balled up my buddies GP.  Is there such Insurance policies available for SM racers or are you just financialy responsible for your accidents?  Also, any premium bumps or exclusions on health insurance?  I'd hate to (God forbid) sustain some injury, and then find out all the medical bills are out of pocket.

 

Finally, and this is just more for curiosity, is there any prize money or sponsorships available?  It would be nice to offset some of the costs if I ever find myself remotely competitive.

 

I'm heading out to High Plains Raceway (HPR) this weekend to troll the paddock for more info and advice as they're having a NASA event there.  I'm hopeful that the folks there are at least as patient as everyone here and will answer more of my 'Noob' questions, but any info supplied on this thread is very much appreciated.

[CARacer]

A racing buddy of mine said a rule of thumb is that one season of campaigning a car will cost roughly the purchase price of the car. He's raced several different kinds (and prices) of cars, including SM, and has found it to be roughly true. I've found it to be roughly true for me. SMs are about $7-20k, so each full season of racing will cost about that much. That's a big range and there's lots you can do to bend things to the lower end of that range, like:

 

Driving to the track means no truck, no trailer, and lower fuel and maintenance costs.

Camping at the track means $100-300 on motels saved each race. 

Taking care of your engine with a good temp gauge, good cooling, new coolant hoses, and being careful with shifts.

Driving well and cautiously for lower repair costs and fewer flat-spotted tires.

Doing all the work on the car yourself is more expensive in hours, but cheaper in dollars.

Read, listen, and heed the knowledge of people on this forum and at your local tracks.

 

Sharing a car can be a good way to race cheaper, too. 

 

It's good advice not to skimp on safety equipment where it makes a difference, but there are actually very few places where it does. Cheap suits/helmets/shoes/gloves/belts/etc are just as safe as expensive ones if they meet the same standards, and head and neck restraints are mandatory. One of the only meaningful safety choices you have to make is halo/full-containment seat or not. Most racers will strongly recommend a full-containment seat. 

[Todd Green]

NASA runs Toyo, SCCA Hoosiers.  SCCA rule book (GCR) is here:

 

http://www.scca.com/...t.cfm?cid=44472

 

You can run a Miata in a bagillion classes, no promises it'll be competitive in SM trim.

 

WRT NASA vs the SCCA, that will depend on where you race and how big the fields are, how much you like racing those in your class.  Each sanctioning body has its quirks, plusses and minuses.  If you search the forums there have been several threads on that.

 

WRT insurance, no idea, but the cars are cheap enough and in general the damage is minor enough that you'd probably come out ahead self insuring.  WRT to personal insurance, call your provider every policy is different.

 

Yes there is contingency :

 

http://nasaproracing.com/contingency

 

http://www.scca.com/...t.cfm?cid=44474

[Bench Racer]

MazdaMotorSports contingency pay-o-la starts on page #4.

http://www.mazdamoto...gencyAwards.pdf

[Danny Steyn]

Jman68 - sorry my bad

 

• If you race NASA you race on Toyo RR's - great tires, durable and you can get at least 10+ heat cycles out of them - IMHO the best times come around HC 2-5. They are not fast as stickers
• If you race SCCA you race on Hoosier SM7's. They are fast and durable and so much better than the SM6's that we had last season that provided exceptional grip especially as stickers, and then rapidly dropped off as the HC increased. IMHO the SM7 can work as a sticker but is best in the 2-4 HC range but can certailnly give the budget racer up to 10 HC, but I do not think it is quite as durable as the RR. 

Both tires have strong points and will require slight setup changes. Hope this helps