183 replies to this topic

[Bench Racer]

Grease between the sleeve and bushing.

 

The flat washers, sleeves and sub-frame tube are all squeezed together by the long bolt.

 

Don't remember if my control arms flopped down or not. IIRC, I pressed the bushings in to a depth so the distance between the bushings was slightly larger than the length of the sub-frame tube and the bushing was equal distance from the control arm tube it's pressed into.

 

I     I I                I I     I    < The smallest gap would be the equal distance the bushings were pressed in through the control arm tube. The long middle gap would be the distance slightly larger length (1/32 inch) than the sub-frame tube. This depth the bushing are pressed into the control arm tubes could be the deal why one arm freely flops and the other does not freely flop. The soft black bushing axial is rubbing/has more friction on the flat washer or the sub-frame tube causing the control arm to not freely fall.

 

When doing normal bushings in the control arm or taking control arm stuff apart when the control arm bolts are tightened at what ever angle of droop that becomes their home. Hence why we tighten control arm bolts loaded with full car weight setting on floor.

 

And after typing all this, I'm thinking when I installed the White Line bushings that the control arms freely fell and did not return to a home position. Or I would remember thinking/saying, WTF.

 

Other's, control arm freely fall, return home or some of both???? 

[Steve Scheifler]

Confused. I thought "Guess these should fix that " meant that one of them sprung back with the original/stock bushing. That is what the original should do if tightened correctly. Meaning it should always return to whatever position it was in when tightened, up, middle or down. If the sick one does not "wind up and spring back" then the long bolt was probably loose, or bushings torn loose from sleeve.

With the new parts installed it absolutely should be free to move up and down freely and droop under its own weight or very little help. If it doesn't then either the sleeves don't align well and are binding on the bolt, or the actual bushing is getting pinched rather than just the sleeve. Binding could be they were not installed quite right or a bent arm, or bad sleeves.

[Sphinx]

Confused. I thought "Guess these should fix that " meant that one of them sprung back with the original/stock bushing. That is what the original should do if tightened correctly. Meaning it should always return to whatever position it was in when tightened, up, middle or down. If the sick one does not "wind up and spring back" then the long bolt was probably loose, or bushings torn loose from sleeve.

With the new parts installed it absolutely should be free to move up and down freely and droop under its own weight or very little help. If it doesn't then either the sleeves don't align well and are binding on the bolt, or the actual bushing is getting pinched rather than just the sleeve. Binding could be they were not installed quite right or a bent arm, or bad sleeves.

 

No, I meant fixed = they should both "flop down" when torqued - ie: they freely move.  I guess I assumed that flopping was the normal position,when it appears I might gotten it backwards.

[Sphinx]

I've got the bushings pressed in.  How much space should there be between the bolt tube and the bushing.  I have pressed them in such that I have about 3/32 overall.  Does it need to be more snug than that, or am I ready to torque down?