21 replies to this topic

[mazdaspd]

I'm in the market for an open trailer for my miata, looking at steel trailers primarily because of cost. What should I be looking for in terms of size, deck material (wood, steel?), brakes, axles, ramps, removable fenders, tilt deck?? So many options available. Also something that has or I can add a tire rack to would be nice. Id like some recommendations on brands and models. Preferably under $3,500

[Tom Sager]

A few thoughts....

 

• 16' will work fine.  18' is also a common size and would give a bit more room for the addition of an add-on chest for storage.  
• Dual axle better with electric brakes.  Most common is 2 x 3500 pound axles.  More than enough for a Miata.  Single axle will work but they don't tow as stable as dual axle.
• Wood decks are fine but won't hold up as well over the years.  Metal better IMO and not much price difference.
• Find one that has fenders low enough that you can open the car door and doors will clear the fenders.
• You might find a good used trailer nearby.  Aluminum is really nice and light and you might find a used one in your price range.

[Diller]

I am trying to sell mine but I am a little bit of a drive from you. Send me a message if you are interested though.

 

For a Miata, a 18 foot with 3500# axles will be more than enough to add a tire rack and tool box on. I prefer steel decking as I can weld whatever I want to it but if you don't have a welder a wood deck may be easier to customize to what you want. 

 

I don't really have a brand preference but some of the nicer options to have or add on later are radial tires, self adjusting brakes, LED lights, removable fenders (mine are low enough not to need removing), toolbox for dry storage, and a small winch. Over the last few years I have towed lots of different sized cars so I keep adding different tie down points so I can pretty much load any vehicle at this point. Keep in mind that if you buy new, you will need to make sure they include a spare tire, not all of the dealers do that standard.

 

Hope that helps.

[Alberto]

I don't have a lot of experience with buying/owning trailers but my feedback follows.  

 

Don't know what things are like by you but in my area a used, 16'-18', steel dual axle, wood deck trailer typically run almost the same price as new when I was looking a couple of years ago.  I'd see the used ones for 1,800 - 2,000 and could buy the same trailer new for 2k not including tax from the local-ish trailer and construction supply places.  Most of the local-ish trailer places only offered wood deck.  

 

With your budget I'd look at steel deck, dual axle w/ electric brakes and low fenders specifically designed for car hauling so you get the low or removable fenders and "beaver tail" sloping rear deck to facilitate loading/driving the car up onto the trailer.  I'd skip the tilt as it's unnecessary feature that adds a lot of cost and weight.  I dislike wood decks as they require maintenance and replacement so it's additional cost to you at some point in it's life.

 

The aluminum trailers are nice but rather expensive and the weight isn't as important if you have a sufficiently competent tow vehicle.

 

My local SCCA chapter has a good set of helpful links on their web site including a good trailer place with trailers for race cars.  

See: http://www.sfrscca.o.../view/8861/166/

and a link to the trailer place with the trailer that I had contemplated:

http://www.performan...px?productID=28

 

Maybe check your local region's site and see if there are any recommendations on trailer dealers.

Good luck.

[mazdaspd]

How does this look? Looks like it would fit the bill.. http://bigtextrailer...&tsp=0&id=41003

[DCP]

How does this look? Looks like it would fit the bill.. http://bigtextrailer...&tsp=0&id=41003

I don't understand why so many trailers like this are sold with brakes on only one of the axles. Trailer brakes just aren't that expensive. I bought a used 102 Ironworks Challenger (which I like because the ramps are big and stow under the trailer and slide out without detaching them for use). The option cost for brakes on both axles was all of $130. You might ask the cost for getting one with the additional brakes. On the one you are looking at, check the fender height against your door clearance. My fender height is 7 inches and I can open the door over it.

[htron435]

Spend the extra money on one with brakes on both axles.  Although this applies more to enclosed trailers, I always tell people to think 5 years down the road when purchasing a trailer.  Better to spend a little more now buying the right trailer vs. having to sell and then buy one with stuff you passed on the first time. 

[Mitch Reading]

What are you towing with?? 

 

The aluminum trailers are very nice, especially if weight is a concern.  Trailex.com is very popular with car guys here in the northeast.  We had one for 15+ years, and loved that you can push it around by hand when unloaded. 

 

I wouldn't tow with a single axle as well as without trailer brakes.

[mazdaspd]

Tow vehicle is a new f150 with the 5.0 v8 in it and tow package. Can tow 8900lbs. Yes aluminum is very nice but the price is the main thing keeping me away, and the weight difference isn't a big deal because the truck has plenty of power.

But i am the type of person, if I'm going to do something i want to do it right the first time, like you guys said i dont want to be buying another trailer 1 year down the road.

The fender height on the trailer i previously posted is 10 inches and has optional spare tire and 2nd axle electric brakes. Not sure what the extra cost for them is though.

[DCP]

Tow vehicle is a new f150 with the 5.0 v8 in it and tow package. Can tow 8900lbs. Yes aluminum is very nice but the price is the main thing keeping me away, and the weight difference isn't a big deal because the truck has plenty of power.

But i am the type of person, if I'm going to do something i want to do it right the first time, like you guys said i dont want to be buying another trailer 1 year down the road.

The fender height on the trailer i previously posted is 10 inches and has optional spare tire and 2nd axle electric brakes. Not sure what the extra cost for them is though.

I used the same analysis and bought a steel and steel deck trailer. Aluminum trailers will, however, hold their value well and are easier to re-sell. For me, I still couldn't justify the price. Measure your car door clearance to figure out whether that fender height will work. Either having a fender low enough that the  door clears or a removable fender makes life a lot easier.

[Alberto]

Can someone explain the benefit of having brakes on both axles of an open trailer?

[Ron Alan]

I used the same analysis and bought a steel and steel deck trailer. Aluminum trailers will, however, hold their value well and are easier to re-sell. For me, I still couldn't justify the price. Measure your car door clearance to figure out whether that fender height will work. Either having a fender low enough that the  door clears or a removable fender makes life a lot easier.

As far as the fender...most are really close and sometimes need just as little to clear. A 2x10 plank you drive on mounted to the deck is all you need sometimes and makes a nice guide. Also adds just that fudge of room you need to reach under or look under the front or rear of the car!

 

Can someone explain the benefit of having brakes on both axles of an open trailer?

same reason a car has 4? When a trailer can slow itself better it adds stability to those unfortunate hard brake situations on the road. Might be the difference between avoiding that collision or that jack knife

[FTodaro]

aluminum trailers, you might consider spending more on an aluminum trailer, in the long run it could save you money if you can afford the up front investment. it saves on gas and when your done playing with it, it holds its value such that after you sell it the cost of ownership is actually less. So lets say that you resell your aluminum trailer for 2000 less than you purchased it. the cost of ownership was 2000 vs spending 3500 on a steel trailer that is not worth much when your done with it, or no market to sell it like you would for an aluminum trailer.

 

Just food for thought.

[DCP]

Can someone explain the benefit of having brakes on both axles of an open trailer?

The trailer he linked to is at least 2,000 pounds.  Add your SM and you are well over 4,000 pounds.  That seems like a lot to stop with two drum brakes on skinny tires.  My principal point, however, is that trailer brakes are cheap. Over at etrailer.com they are $45 per side. At that price, why not have them?

 

On the steel vs. aluminum issue, although I am quite happy with my steel trailer and would do it again, the steel and finishes used in trailers is not rust resistant like cars.  If you live where things rust, the trailer will too.  Plan on spending a couple of hours a year removing rust spots and doing touch up painting.

[Brandon]

Tow vehicle is a new f150 with the 5.0 v8 in it and tow package. Can tow 8900lbs. Yes aluminum is very nice but the price is the main thing keeping me away, and the weight difference isn't a big deal because the truck has plenty of power.

But i am the type of person, if I'm going to do something i want to do it right the first time, like you guys said i dont want to be buying another trailer 1 year down the road.

The fender height on the trailer i previously posted is 10 inches and has optional spare tire and 2nd axle electric brakes. Not sure what the extra cost for them is though.

 

CSB (Cool Story 'Bro) time:

Was in your same position back in 2009.  Bought an '05 Expedition and decided on a new steel trailer from EconoTrailer.

I went with steel knowing I'd be giving up 1000+ pounds of overall capacity but from my perspective this was offset in going with a new trailer and I've yet to justify going with an aluminum one due mainly to the 3x/4x cost here in the NE.  And ("flex time"), the Expedition can also tow 9200 pounds.  :-)

 

IMO, these guys do a steel trailer right: beaver tail, in-tail ramp storage, brakes on both 3500# axles, LED lights...for a very reasonable price (mine was under $2500).

 

Anyway...I've since added a trailer tongue box (aluminum; from American Van), bolt-on tire rack (from Trailer Outlet) and maintenance has consisted of a new set of tires (at 4 years) & repacking of wheel bearings every 3 years.

 

Now, to answer your concern about re-doing something one year afterward, I'm approaching year 5 with this setup and my next step will be an enclosed and not transitioning to another open one.  I think I could even sell this one for a few thousand should I finally make that decision.

 

Sooo.....I don't think you'll go wrong with the open trailer and won't regret it if you get one.

PM me if you would like some pictures or any other details on things...

 

Best of luck!

Brandon

[Parity]

Brandon,

 

Is your bolt on tire rack for a trailer spare or race tires? I checked that site but couldn't find anything. Do you have a direct link?

 

Thanks

[mazdaspd]

CSB (Cool Story 'Bro) time:

Was in your same position back in 2009.  Bought an '05 Expedition and decided on a new steel trailer from EconoTrailer.

I went with steel knowing I'd be giving up 1000+ pounds of overall capacity but from my perspective this was offset in going with a new trailer and I've yet to justify going with an aluminum one due mainly to the 3x/4x cost here in the NE.  And ("flex time"), the Expedition can also tow 9200 pounds.  :-)

 

IMO, these guys do a steel trailer right: beaver tail, in-tail ramp storage, brakes on both 3500# axles, LED lights...for a very reasonable price (mine was under $2500).

 

Anyway...I've since added a trailer tongue box (aluminum; from American Van), bolt-on tire rack (from Trailer Outlet) and maintenance has consisted of a new set of tires (at 4 years) & repacking of wheel bearings every 3 years.

 

Now, to answer your concern about re-doing something one year afterward, I'm approaching year 5 with this setup and my next step will be an enclosed and not transitioning to another open one.  I think I could even sell this one for a few thousand should I finally make that decision.

 

Sooo.....I don't think you'll go wrong with the open trailer and won't regret it if you get one.

PM me if you would like some pictures or any other details on things...

 

Best of luck!

Brandon

 

Yup, that sounds like exactly like what I need. I rather save some money on the trailer and have something that does the job versus splurging on something fancy. That leaves me more money to race!

 

And yeah, the only way I see my self upgrading in the future is to an enclosed trailer, but I have no plans for that right now. 

[dbednarz]

I have used a Dively Econotrailer since 2004.  Ideal size, runway height,  and fender height  for a spec Miata.  You can open doors with it in place. Ramps slide in and out. Car doesn't bottom on the cross-members when driving up. You can see through the Miata window to see what is behind you.  ( I am not affiliated with this company -  BTW)

 

My tow vehicle is a F150 with 5.4L / 3.55 axle - tow in Drive (not overdrive)  I often set the cruise control (as long as it is not hilly enough that it shifts) and run the AC in the summer. 

 

Also agree with having trailer brakes and dual axle - many have reported their scariest driving incident during the race weekend is the tow home. Also get a weight jacking hitch with the spring "L" bars. 

[Brandon]

Hey Paul,

The tire rack was 'bolt on' but essentially consisted of a custom measure/cut collection of 2" square tubing (for the upright frame), 1 1/2" tubing for the front/rear cross bars (where the tires sit), then straps of 3/16x2 steel were cut/bent/welded into the "securing bars" on the top of the upright frames.  I'm not sure why they went to 3x bolts on each upright to attach them to the trailer but it works well.  My biggest complaint about it was the price ($600) but it got two sets of tires out of the tow vehicle which also meant I didn't have to unload them after the weekend.

 

I'll see if I can snap some pictures tomorrow and get them posted here in the thread for everyone to critique.  :-)

 

More to come!

Brandon

[David S.]

Another vote here for Dively. I bought mine in '09 and paid $2200. It has been a great trailer. I bought the 18' version and it was definitely needed for some of the large old cars that have been towed on this trailer.

On the other hand, if you have any thought that an enclosed trailer would be nice then now is the time. Last year it seemed like every race was either cold and raining or 1000 degrees. I just sold the Dively to a co-worker (who was going up in size from a 16' Dively). I found a used 20' Haulmark with power and ac for under 5k. If you have the space for one it may be worth looking over Craigslist before committing to an open trailer.