27 replies to this topic

[Rapido]

Howdy, first post, and I'm not sure I'm in the right place, but...

 

My plan is to build an Outlaw Miata according to my specs and race it where ever, e.g., WRL. Said another way, I'm not going to build a car according to someone else's rule book.

 

Why? First, I'd admit it. I'm a horsepower slut, to a degree. I don't want to race 300+ hp monsters in T2 and so forth. But I'm thinking it would be cool to have, say, 240 rear wheel hp, powering a 2,400 pound car, i.e., the ceiling for T3.

 

My first question to you is which donor car model should I target? I'm biased toward the NC because they fit me better. But there sure are a lot of cheep NA cars out there.

 

My second question is which motor? 1.6, 1.8, or 2.0? BTW, I'd rather say away from turbos if possible.

 

My third question is which transmission? I'm guessing the NC 6 speed would be the best. But what do I know?

 

Any and all comments appreciated.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Caveman-kwebb99]

6speed sucks

[wheel]

Why not build something to a current rule?  Touring, Super Touring, whatever?

[Erik Hardy]

woo horsepower slut .... woo custom build .... 240hp.....Oh. Lame, needs another 0.

[davew]

First, this is the wrong place to ask. Most of us know nothing unless it is Spec Miata.

 

To get 240 hp, you will need either a turbo or an engine swap.

 

We are just getting started on a Honda J series V6 swap into a Miata that should be in the 220hp range and weigh about the same as a Spec. Should be interesting (and stupid as they said on Laugh In). You young-uns can look up Laugh In on you tube. It is right after hints from Helois.

 

dave

[Jeff Wasilko]

K series Honda swap could also put you there: http://kmiata-com.myshopify.com/

[MPR22]

What are they running in the MX-5s in the Continental Tire Challenge those cars seem to have 200+  hp.  

[davew]

What are they running in the MX-5s in the Continental Tire Challenge those cars seem to have 200+  hp.  

 

They are 2.0l MZR motors built by Roush. About $20k plus peripherals. One over rev and they need rebuild. Good for 2 Conti weekends.

[Jim Drago]

To get to the numbers you are looking for you will need to go to a 2.5 mzr in a 06 up car and is easily 20k and far from bullett proof plus build as Dave mentioned.. even then, VERY doubtful you will see 240 even with cams, compression etc. 

Better off with a turbo option IMO

 

Most all of us think we are into going fast.. speaking for myself and a few others.. It isn't about the speed for me, it is about the close competition. nothing more embarrassing than pulling people 100 yards on every straight and be caught in every corner by a spec miata

[MotoFusi]

Jim, that's the best part of the HPDE's I did. I past a brand new McClaren twice!!!!! LOL Didn't want to let me by so I got one foot off his new bumper. Shamed him into moving over  All on video

[scott sanda]

240 at the rear wheels is 270 to 280 at the flywheel. You will be really hard pressed to get 140hp per L without a full on gt level race build. Figure 30 k on the low end, and expect to turn 8500 to 9000 rpm. Top end rebuilds roughly every other race. Billet crank, motec or bosch fi, etc. probably more like 50k. None of the spec Miata engine builders are going to be able to do it unless they also already do those types of programs. You certainly won't do it at home.

Put in a mild turbo, run it for 2 years, have fun.

[Jesse Prather]

Damn I'm not charging enough!

 

FYI.  All of my built Miata E Production engines 1.8 and 2.0 are well over 200hp to the wheels on my dynojet and they don't cost 20k.  They also last a whole season of racing now that the MZR engines have alternate rods.

[Rapido]

Thanks for the comments. At 63, I'm no longer living the dream. Lap records at Sebring will be safe from me. 

 

My idea is to have fun once a month at local-area tracks (I'm in Houston). Say, test and tune, enduros or whatever. I may do sprint racing, but that is a lot of work for very little seat time.

 

Plus, at 6'2" 245 pounds, SM cars are not comfortable. I did race the Skippy MX cars several years ago, and they work. But if I can't get a dropped pan solution to work, the NA and NB cars are out. Frankly, even in the Skippy NC cars, I was a head banger, which is a phase I never went through. (I'm an Allman Bros guy.)  So I'm gonna check and see if if the dropped seat will work there.

 

Plus, I'll admit it. There are times when it would be nice to have more juice. Going down the front straight at TWS in a SM gives you time to check out cloud formations, trim your fingernails, and so on. Plus, if you have the power, nailing the T2 apex and drifting to the track out is a real hoot.

 

Frankly, I'd probably be better off to go the BMW route, but I'm cheep, and they are expensive. 

 

Maybe this explains my logic. If I go with a NC car, I'm going to build what I want, not what some rule book says. (I can't stand the center console in any Miata because my right knee bangs on it. So the dash and everything else is coming out.)

 

Does this make any sense?

[MPR22]

[quote name="Rapido" post="88063" timestamp="1457887935"]Thanks for the comments. At 63, I'm no longer living the dream. Lap records at Sebring will be safe from me. 
 
My idea is to have fun once a month at local-area tracks (I'm in Houston). Say, test and tune, enduros or whatever. I may do sprint racing, but that is a lot of work for very little seat time.
 
Plus, at 6'2" 245 pounds, SM cars are not comfortable. I did race the Skippy MX cars several years ago, and they work. But if I can't get a dropped pan solution to work, the NA and NB cars are out. Frankly, even in the Skippy NC cars, I was a head banger, which is a phase I never went through. (I'm an Allman Bros guy.)  So I'm gonna check and see if if the dropped seat will work there.
 
Plus, I'll admit it. There are times when it would be nice to have more juice. Going down the front straight at TWS in a SM gives you time to check out cloud formations, trim your fingernails, and so on. Plus, if you have the power, nailing the T2 apex and drifting to the track out is a real hoot.
 
Frankly, I'd probably be better off to go the BMW route, but I'm cheep, and they are expensive. 
 
Maybe this explains my logic. If I go with a NC car, I'm going to build what I want, not what some rule book says. (I can't stand the center console in any Miata because my right knee bangs on it. So the dash and everything else is coming out.)
 
Does this make any sense?[/quote

I am 6'1 and was 235 with a long torso and fit easily into NA/NB, without dropping the pan. When the cage and seat are built right you will fit.
I have driven many cars at TWS from 100 hp to 400+. And no car compares to a 125 hp SM going through turn 2 on the edge of knife. But if you don't have the skills to drive a car to its absolute limits then drifting a car is pretty fun too, just slow. Good luck in finding a car that suits your fun factor.

[Rapido]

Thanks. Who built your cage and seat? My next stop is Greg Lucas.

[MPR22]

1 Miatacage by gas head motor works
2 Lucas custom
3,4 and 5 Mitacage by Chris Haldeman

Did have the Trans tunnel notch panel so we could move the seat more towards the tunnel, buy the kit from Drago.

[Rapido]

1 Miatacage by gas head motor works
2 Lucas custom
3,4 and 5 Mitacage by Chris Haldeman

Did have the Trans tunnel notch panel so we could move the seat more towards the tunnel, buy the kit from Drago.

 

Thanks. Is this the link to Chris Haldeman

 

http://www.x-factorracing.com/

[MPR22]

Thanks. Is this the link to Chris Haldeman
 
http://www.x-factorracing.com/

Yup.

[Mike Collins]

6'4" 245... No problems... and I have to run ballast in the car..

[Tom Hampton]

And no car compares to a 125 hp SM going through turn 2 on the edge of knife. But if you don't have the skills to drive a car to its absolute limits then drifting a car is pretty fun too, just slow. Good luck in finding a car that suits your fun factor.

 

 

+1

 

Love that turn in a well-balanced Miata.  Can't wait for April.